2speedboi

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The Two Speed friction drive.
I started with an idea to tackle the hills that surrounded where I live. I didn't want to sacrifice good cruising speeds for sub par torqued out low speed climbing, so I built this, with the help of a local machine shop.

IMG_20200525_173308528.jpg
IMG_20200525_173314057.jpg


The lever that brings it back to (D) drive gear, (N) nuetural, and (L) low gear, was a bike bug lever unit from which I had, but it's age and cheap metal started to show and snapped off. I have another that will work better, but I am still sad.

The 36 tooth reduction is far to low for friction, I am thinking half or less. I am using a 9 tooth output, but I'll save wieght and reduce my reduction to a 17 more or less.

It's not even close to perfect, I want something to be rugged and easy to work on, simple parts. Mostly bolts and aluminum plates. The "clutch" engagement needs improvement as well as a long lasting roller surface that provides good traction under less desirable conditions. The Diablo sand paper works pretty good but I wonder on its longevity of use to mile. The tank came from my bike bug, the engine is a fs 55 stilh which has about a little over 80 miles on it. It's roller diameter is just right at an inch, and it has pretty good mid range for keeping pace up slight inclines and has nice power build up from slow speeds. Pretty nice all around, single ring piston, could do better with a different carb I think.

I would like to try a 4 cycle engine, I just need to find one I can do I direct drive with
 
The Two Speed friction drive.
I started with an idea to tackle the hills that surrounded where I live. I didn't want to sacrifice good cruising speeds for sub par torqued out low speed climbing, so I built this, with the help of a local machine shop.

View attachment 95969View attachment 95970

The lever that brings it back to (D) drive gear, (N) nuetural, and (L) low gear, was a bike bug lever unit from which I had, but it's age and cheap metal started to show and snapped off. I have another that will work better, but I am still sad.

The 36 tooth reduction is far to low for friction, I am thinking half or less. I am using a 9 tooth output, but I'll save wieght and reduce my reduction to a 17 more or less.

It's not even close to perfect, I want something to be rugged and easy to work on, simple parts. Mostly bolts and aluminum plates. The "clutch" engagement needs improvement as well as a long lasting roller surface that provides good traction under less desirable conditions. The Diablo sand paper works pretty good but I wonder on its longevity of use to mile. The tank came from my bike bug, the engine is a fs 55 stilh which has about a little over 80 miles on it. It's roller diameter is just right at an inch, and it has pretty good mid range for keeping pace up slight inclines and has nice power build up from slow speeds. Pretty nice all around, single ring piston, could do better with a different carb I think.

I would like to try a 4 cycle engine, I just need to find one I can do I direct drive with
Nice job!
Have you tried deep sockets in assorted lengths as rollers?
Or Staton's rollers?
 
Really cool gearbox!

However, it's not a two speed FRICTION drive. I saw a #25 or 35 chain. Not that it couldn't be used and modified.

According to my design, in theory it can mount the rear, a new mount bracket and a linked shifting lever from the back should do the trick. I will be moving it to the rear of the bike once I figure out different support brackets to use.

I have been ignoring the bill and by parts as I go and make adjustments and changes. I have over 500 into it with trial and error, I think it can be done for 300, not including engine.

I'll run out and grab a video. Low range is out of service because my reduction is so low. But I'll see what I can do..
 
I think you would have interest and maybe it could
be patented but it would not have commercial potential
unless it fitted on the rear tire.
 
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