Two speed Staton

I talked to Dave Staton this morning about the multi speed setup and he said he had pictures of a 2 / 3 / and 5 speed setup.

He is suposed to be sending me some photos soon ....so when I get em' I'll post em' !

I really feel like 2 speeds are all I need for 95% of my riding needs.


Anyhow I received my shipping confirmation on all my goodies today so I should start seeing some parts show up Monday or so.

I'm Chuffed!
 
It all depends on your circumstances,where I live,you would need at least a 2:1 ratio,unless you had a really powerful engine,like that R460 to get up 10% grades or worse and still have a reasonable cruise rpm on the flats,23 % is just 5000 to 6150 rpm.
 
Well I got all my doodads in the mail today and both track sprockets will only thread on about a turn or two on the staton adapter?

I have not noticed any mention of different thread choices but it has that wrong thread lock up feeling?

I thought the track sprocket freewheel threads were a standard.

Is this normal and just torque it down or is the adapter threaded wrong?
 
Yeh...I dunno.
I think it's definitely the wrong thread because both sprockets thread on the same distance either side (flange in or out)
The 13t threads on much further than the 16t but they both lock up at the same respective number of turns.
In other words the 13t threads on 3.25 turns ...turn it over and it will go 3.25 turns.
The 16 1 complete turn then lock up flip it over 1 complete turn then lock up?
 
Ok went to the bike shop purchased grease and a chain whip tool got brave and now I have the track sprockets mounted....pretty easy actually with the right tool.
my next question is with the 16t threaded into the adapter so the adapter flange and the track gear flange touch it only leaves enough room to screw the 13t in only about half way? Is that right and if so is that enough threads to be strong?
 
How thick are these sprockets,including the flange? the adapter space is supposed to be 1/2 "or 12.7 mm,so the sprockets + flanges should be something like 8mm (10/32 " and the sprockets themselves are 3/32" or 2.4 mm
(8* 3/2=12) is that the case? What is the spacing between them? is it 5.5 mm or 7/32 ".I don't think you need to worry too much about the fact that thereis some thread left on the 13t one.Steel is quite strong.
 
As I recall I had more than 1/2 of the 13 on the adapter but not all of it. If in doubt, cut some off the "nose" of the 16 threaded section. Course sand paper on a flat surface, maybe a little die grinder, etc. If you do that, put it on backward first to chase the thread.

PS
Do not cut 13 tooth as it provides sprocket spacing.
 
I know a couple of you are working on this project and it's a bit of a hassle, so let me give you some incentive. I went for a ride to Trussville this morning, down to the tracks to drink coffee. Ten feet from a 60 mph freight train, man what a rush. Back to business, my return takes me up a hill with a rough road. I usually wind up to 30 or a little over, so as not to bog at the top, real beating getting up that thing. Today I slipped her into low range and came up at 20 mph, never went WOT, much smoother. Later, I pulled off the 4 lane, traffic was getting heavy and came to another nemesis hill with a stop sign at the bottom, no run up. A few weeks ago, my wife tried it with the Mitsubishi (1 3/8" roller) and wound up getting off and pushing to the top. Again low range pulled me up without even a whimper or turning a pedal.

As Cartman would say "Sweeeet!":)
 
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