Two stroke bicycle engine bucking bar clutch problem

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You could shave the bucking bar if need be on a grinder if all else fails
No it's all ready a bit on the small side when clutch is adjusted properly,and for those whom need a bit more preload it's too short and has to be replaced with a new length.
 
When you received the kit the clutch had it's preload and the pressure plate setup to aid instalation.When you took the cover off you released the preload witch is normal,so as Greg said start the bolts in the cover and tighten evenly until secure enough to use the clutch arm/cam to push in the spring abit and put the flower nut back on then tighten the bolt's some more and repeat until cover is flush it's much easier that way.
 
Thanks for all the replies, but Greg58, or anyone else that sees this and can help, what do you mean put washers on the clutch shaft? I’m not entire sure where you are suggesting the washers should go so the clutch spring will tighten up. Thanks for the help
 
JUST KIDDING IT IS FIXED! Thank you guys so much, the cover is fitting on okay now, but how can I check if the clutch is working properly? How exactly is it supposed to work when tuned correctly? Any tips you have?
 
that will require test runs, I like mine adjusted so the arm is parallel with the side cover, I run the angled clutch arm so the cable clamp doesn’t catch on my leg or foot
 
As long as the clutch doesn’t slip and you can disengage the clutch when stopped it’s good.
 
Okay that sounds good, however my clutch is set up now but it’s not actually engaging, could that be the flower nut is too tight? What else could it be?
 
Just kidding, fixed that problem too, plate was too loose I think. now the drive sprocket can’t move unless the clutch is engaged, that’s how it should work, correct?
 
Okay I came back to finish the bike and now the clutch won’t work! I adjusted the flower nut to every possible position but nothing works! What could it be, and how can I fix this? Thanks, will
 
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