Un boxing the Superhawk R80

new motor arrived

Fins on the cylinder a little rough but got some spare parts

Time to open it up and see how pretty it is

 

[Stoneman]

He's a guy on eBay from Australia

Seller name "techas" but wondered why I pulled it apart lol

He's came through with a refund towards a new head so happy enough.
At least he compromised with me for a solution. I don't think he could fix it any way as he doesn't list parts
Or bugger all when I checked

 

[Stoneman]

Yes I did
Do you think I have the right one Gary?
My inlet port studs are 32 mm, I did get a little confused about the measurements so just went on the fact it was a GT5 and those spec seem to match mine as you mentioned my cylinder is 69.5 mm in height
I tried the seller you mentioned and for some reason it lead me to kings?
I think I'm limited from so me sellers being in Australia
Postage is a little expensive but if that's the only way I don't have much choice

Yeah I've looked at the mods needed for the reed valve, didn't know about the cylinder type though

 

[gary55]

I have ordered engines from them that were advertised as 40mm intakes and got 32's so you have a 50 50 chance they will send you the right jug regardless of what their ad says. I think the cyl. height will be the same too. If it ain't you got the remedy for that one.

Just don't order anything for a reed valve set up till you know for sure what the intake spacing is that you will run. I have built a few reed valve engines. Mostly with the GT80 setups from kings. Their GT80 top end has a 69.6mm jug with 32mm intake spacing. These engines have noticeable more power mostly at top end and need a good pipe to work well. A little sluggish at the low end. I think that's because of so much volume in the reed housing from what I have read. Some stuff the housing with JB weld to cut this down a bit. the carb is a bit of a pain to get right, but I attribute that to my lack of knowledge on this setup and a little on the altitude where I live affecting the idle circuits.

 

[Stoneman]

Thanks Gary

I'll keep my finger crossed

My luck has to change sooner or later

 

[KCvale]

He's a guy on eBay from Australia
Seller name "techas" but wondered why I pulled it apart lol

And he is clamming it's some kind of new real Grubee Skyhawk engine?
See if you can find it here.
http://grubeeinc.com/SkyHawk.htm#engine

 

[gary55]

These engines have been around for over 5 years. Relax.

 

[Stoneman]

For some reason using the tool supplied I can't get my drive sproket off

It won't budge?
Am I missing something or can they be real tight?

It feels like my tool is about to thread itself if go any tighter with the little puller

 

[gary55]

Usually they aren't that bad, but every once in a while you get a stubborn one. As long as your threads have a good bit on the gear it should come off.

 

[Stoneman]

I might have to try a bit of heat. And replace all the bearings

I'm going to pull the crank and balance it as best I can.

This is the stubborn one

It looks like it just uses a key to lock it in.

 

[Frankenstein]

I might have to try a bit of heat. And replace all the bearings

I'm going to pull the crank and balance it as best I can.
View attachment 77832 This is the stubborn one

It looks like it just uses a key to lock it in.

Well they press that on there and then drive a nut down on it. It's a tapered shaft so it makes a strong press fit, the key is simply for anti slip.

Um you need to thread the outer section Of the tool into the threads in the gear, just clean both the gear threads and the tool off with solvents and wd 40 it so it's really slick and thread the tool down, if it's going on straight and definitely in the threads then don't be afraid to put a large adjustable wrench over it and tighten it down, lock the gear by jamming a wrench over the teeth. Also make sure that center post in the tool is backed out enough that it isn't in contact with the inner section of the clutch bucking bar area.

After the base of the tool is engaged well enough in the gear then start tightening the center post down, keep a wrench on the base of the tool and use another to turn the post, it shouldn't take much past it becoming snug that it should free the gear.