Engine Trouble UnHappy Happy Time (engine wont start)

I believe he is planning on using his old scrubber robin-subaru 35cc with a gebe setup on his new cruiser

You are absolutely correct Bill. I would like to get the FORD running again however. But short of replacing both the magneto and CDI, I can't think of anything else.
 
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But short of replacing both the magneto and CDI, I can't think of anything else.

I thought you WERE getting spark ? Are you sure fuel is freely flowing from the tank all the way through to the carb ? Gas line full, no air ?
 
OK, my turn again,
by now if I had spark and fuel and it still was a no-go, I would tow start it.

However,
Try this method of working backwards.

1. Remove spark plug, check gap.
2. Check for spark with lead on plug and earth spark plug on cylinder head
fin.
Lift the rear wheel, and give it one good hard pedal down as if you are
kick-starting a bike. If plug sparks at the tip, re-install the spark plug.

2a. If no spark, check Plug cap. I had to replace mine with a NGK Right Angle spark plug cap, (don't know the part No. though)
2b. Repalce lead anyway with Copper wire lead.
Check for spark again with new lead and plug cap
That's the electrical done from start of lead to end of plug tip.

If Spark, then go to Fuel.
If No Spark, go to Magneto and CDI.
But don't just replace the Magneto and CDI unless you do all the obove to.
That way you have a clean sweep out of sight out of kind type of thing of the electrics.

Fuel.
Remove Carby, AFTER Spark is all clear as explained above.
Remove fuel bowl, see if it was full or any fuel was in there.
If not, check fuel line and needle/seat where the fuel line plugs in.
There may be some grit.
If it had fuel in fuel bowl, re-fit carby.

Fuel is OK up to fuel bowl end.

Clutch adjustment, just go through the motions at the cable end. There should be no slack.
Can't say much about whats behind the clutch cover, never had one with problems ,yet.

By this time you probably flooded it trying to start and doing the other testings.

Then as last resort as I mentioned earlier,
Tow start,
and this will "flush out" the remaining cob-webs, and it ought to go.
Tow around the block or whatever until all reasonable doubt is undoubted if it still don't start.

Failing a tow start, then start the inspection process again the next day, so take a break, it's only a HT engine.
This time check for Head/Lower cylinder/Exhaust and Carby Gasket leaks etc.
Point is, dwelve deeper into the problem.
Tow again if all looks OK.

If it don't start still, I don't know what else from here, we may need pictures so we can see anything odd or unusual.
 
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a tow start is a little extreme and dangerous. Engines aren't rocket science. Check for spark...its easy and been explained numerous times. Using a cordless drill to spin the magneto nut with spark plug removed is the easiest way to check if you have spark without even breaking a sweat.

If you have spark, check compression. You should feel resistance when you spin the engine by hand or pedal against it (plug installe) If compression good, then its FUEL and AIR. Remove air filter and spray some starter fluid in the engine and pedal away imediately. If it kicks and runs its the carb.

I wouldn't be surprised if it was something simple such as kill switch wiring.
 
it sounds like the clutch to me. Clutch or the magneto. By the way if the magneto is just weak it may well spark in air but not inside the engine.

BSA
 
Ok, I've been told by the spookytooth people the following.

"Follow the white wire as it leads from the magneto up to the
kill switch. On certain models, the kill switch may be at fault
grounding out against the handlebar. Disconnect the kill switch at the
handlebar and attempt to restart the bike."

The only problem I'm having with this is that I can see no way of disconnecting the kill switch. It seems to me as if it's in a closed off area. The wire leading into in IMHO not accessible, other then just cutting the ****ed thing. Don't really want to do that because if it's not the switch, then I've lost it.
Anybody know how to gain access inside the switch compartment?
 
OK,
Up to now we been trying this long process of elimination to see if it starts at least.
After having gone this far, temporarily disconnect ALL wires and start from scratch, without the kill switch.

Meaning, you have 2 wires that come out from the engine's magneto cover, and color match them to the CDI.

Tape the end of the White wire so it don't short out anywhere.

Try to start it, or at least check for spark first, then if there is spark, try to start it.
If it starts, lets us know please.
To turn the engine off with no kill switch, stall it by releasing the clutch and holding the bike, it won't go anywhere, it will stop.

And if it all seems OK after all this when it's started, then we have isolated one of the problems and I am sure we all can help to fix the kill switch afterwards with a toggle On/Off switch.
 
I concur w/ bolt's recommendations. As a minimum, cut the kill switch wire where it connects to the blue wire. If it is one of those cheap red button kill switches and not one integrated into throttle, throw it out.
 
5 Pages and She wont start?Don't worry my happy time is not so happy..I held the spark plug out of the engine and it sparked so I think its fueal..I have no rood so I have to have the carb high whice makes the gas line have no incline really but gas is at the inlet when I try to start it..Iv went mad trying to start mine
 
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