Upgrading Rear Coaster Brakes For Extreme Use

Discussion in 'Spare Parts, Tools & Product Developement' started by 5-7HEAVEN, Jan 13, 2009.

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  1. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    I just assembled "The Dragon Lady", a twin-engined Raleigh girlie cruiser. It has a modified pocket bike engine on front friction drive and 2.2hp Mitsubishi engine on rear friction drive.

    I have not run the bike yet.

    It has EXTREME power and needs brakes to match.

    The front fork has vee brakes, rear has coaster. I need to upgrade rear brakes, maybe eliminate coaster entirely.(I have had major coaster brake lockup at 25 mph.)

    Is there any way to install vee brakes or the rear and freewheel the rear sprocket?

    Thanks for help.

  2. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    Depending on what your frame is made out of u could either braze or weld v-brake bosses to it,OR purchase this(dunno what their like cos i've never seen any feedback & the effers won't answer my emails about exactly how they mount,etc)
    Those drum brakes u get with heavy duty Grubee hubs arn't good enough for your needs so i'm thinking V is your best option..............good stopping power V.
  3. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    two words

    disc brake
  4. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    No room for rear disc brake, Dave. I have a 36tooth sprocket on the back wheel, along with the coaster brake. The sprocket is a carryover from a China engine attempt. My next step is to replace the rear friction drive with Mits engine and Titan chain drive.

    Having chain drive on one wheel is a desirable option when riding thru mud puddles, wet roads or if caught in continuous rain miles from home.

    I need an inexpensive option. If cost is too high, it's cheaper to buy another bike with vee brakes and multi-speeds.
  5. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Years ago, when I installed the girlie cruiser's suspension fork and vee brakes, I removed the bike's aftermarket front center-pull brake and set it aside. After some measuring and trial-fits, this center-pull brake almost lined up with the back rim wheni bolted UNDERNEATH and onto the Staton rear mount center hole. When I drilled the seat stay gusset and moved the Staton mount 1" forward....

    the aftermarket front center-pull brake bolted onto the Staton center hole and aligned PERFECTLY with the back rim!!!

    Woo Hoo!!!

    All I have to do is buy the cable and lever and she should be good to go.

    Total cost of rear brake install should be less than $15.:scooter:
  6. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    My new rear SIDE-pull brake works great; I just needed to buy a new cable for $5. So I have front, rear and coaster brakes.

    When I turn both engines off, the resistance drag from THE friction drives also slows the bike down.

    With brakes in order, "The Dragon Lady" was ready to install its 2.2hp Mitsubishi engines and Happy Time reserve tank and fuel lines.

    Brakes and engines work great. Just need minor adjustments. The tuned pipe on the front engines needs to be moved to rear engine cuz the exhaust gets in my face.

    Just in time because I need to ride "The Dragon Lady" to work four times weekly, starting tomorrow.
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 25, 2009
  7. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    FYI, it's been over a month since I installed an extra rear brake. It works very well, along with front vee brake and coaster brake.

    I would recommend anyone with coaster brake to keep it when installing rear side-pull brake. All three brakes work efficiently together. Nothing is gained by eliminating coasters.

    Mine will never lock up again because I don't need to jam the coaster pedal anymore.