Safety USE LOCKTITE! my friend just crashed because...

Discussion in 'Travelling, Commuting & Safety' started by nidyanazo, Jun 6, 2010.

  1. nidyanazo

    nidyanazo Member

    He didnt locktite the handlebars.
    Vibrations caused the screws to back out. He told me one minute everything was normal then ALL OF A SUDDEN the bars came off and he went over the front.

    Hit his head and got some road rash.
    Luckily for him his helmet took the impact and he's fine.

    I've been going over all the bolts using red loctite- harder to remove than the blue stuff, but stronger.

    Just a word of caution to my fellow MB pals!

  2. Yoda Bob

    Yoda Bob Member

    Hope your buddy is mending well. Of the many learnings in my two-wheeled experience, the ones including road rash created the most lasting impressions.

    Loc-tite is a wise idea. Bicycle design, as evolved as it may be, simply doesn't allow for the "buzz" of an internal combustion powerplant. Loc-tite is cheap insurance.

    A word of caution based on 25+ years experience using thread lockers in a 24/7 industrial setting:

    Loc-tite Red is intended to be permanent. That doesn't mean you can't take stuff apart. It does, however, lend to smaller things breaking when you try. Heads twist off of fasteners, threads come out with the screws (especially in aluminum), weird stuff like that. Heating parts to about 400F (liquifying the adhesive) is sometimes required to avoid breakage during (or even permit) disassembly.

    The solution:

    Use "blue". For fasteners from about M4 through M12 - most everything on a bike - blue is the preferred solution, and for very good reason.

    Red's just too much of a good thing!

  3. Stan4d

    Stan4d New Member

    Wise words from a Master.
    I would add, if you ever get any green loctite: THOW IT AWAY!! Just because it is not a warning color like red does not mean that it is not worse than red.
  4. WhizBangAndy

    WhizBangAndy Member

    Green Loctite isnt bad..Its Just a PITA to get whatever you used it on loose again..LOL
  5. Stan4d

    Stan4d New Member

    I have yet to get anything loose with out power tools and extreme heat. Mostly damaging components to where replacement was neccesary.....I have heard rumors of something stronger than green....but I do not know why it would be made. Welding already exists.
  6. Yoda Bob

    Yoda Bob Member

    The flesh mends in time, the lessons endure a lifetime!

    I've used two different green Loc-tites, both good in their given applications:

    "Wimpy" Green (can't remember #): A flange sealant. Good success using it to prevent air leaks in water-cooled 2-cycle crankcases.

    "Thick" Green (CRS sux...): Cylindrical fit adhesive. Good for locking bearing races into slightly worn bores.

    Wouldn't throw any of 'em out. Each color has the same basic ingredient, basically in different strengths. Any one will do in a pinch. Just go easy on the red!

    I believe I remember a purple, too. Wimpier than Wimpy Green. For tiny, little fasteners. Thinking it'll help keep my spokes tight when I get around to building up some wheels. Double-walled rims prevent the rim strip (aided by tire pressure) from preventing rotation of the spoke nipples. Some pro builders recommend Loc-tite.

    "Room temperature, self-(D***ed CRS!) anaerobic sealants": they're all good!

  7. SimpleSimon

    SimpleSimon Active Member

    My brother and I built a Pterodactyl ultralight aircraft some years ago, and on the advice of the local airport A&P guy, we used Loctite green to assemble several slip joints in the suspension triangle. When he hit a hole on landing in a pasture and bent the axle between the wheels, we couldn't get the joints back apart in any way whatsoever. Ended up building an entire new suspension triangle. The second time we did as the kit plans advised, and swaged the fittings.
  8. Stan4d

    Stan4d New Member

  9. Yoda Bob

    Yoda Bob Member

    Loc-tite is a self-CURING (it came back to me!), anaerobic plastic. I remember when plastic used to stand for cheap. NOT the case with this stuff. The old literature from the manufacturer used to reference shear strengths in the 22-24,000PSI range for extreme applications. Definitely nothing cheap about that!

    Heat is often required for disassembly. Glad you decided not to heat the ultralights wheel struts, SS. Might have left 'em a little "bendy". Sometimes it best to start over!
  10. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    I use it all the Time.
    Stupid trivia: What it the main ingredient in Loc-Tite?
  11. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    Do not use thread adhesive on spoke nipples

    I've built road, BMX, and mountain bike wheels. I only use 1 thing in preparation of spokes or during truing: 90% Isopropyl "rubbing" alcohol.

    In a small squirt bottle or dripper bottle, it is convenient to run down the spokes, which will lubricate them temporarily and prevent siezing. It also acts as an astringent and helps get dirt and dust out of the nipples. When it dries, the spokes, if properly tight, should not move under cycling of the wheel, but may still be moved by a spoke wrench.
    Tip: use tape-wrapped or filed smooth pliers to hold the spoke during final tightening sequences, to prevent spoke wind up.

    If you just have to use something as an anti-corrosive or "threadlock", get Wheelsmith Spoke Prep, or Fingernail Polish (at Dollar Stores everywhere).
    Threadlock, even the weak # blue type, is probably overkill for spokes, and may cause rounding off of the nipples when you try to adjust the wheel.

  12. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

  13. Hawaii_Ed

    Hawaii_Ed Member

    Exactly why I check all my important fasteners every fill up. It is a good habit to get into...
  14. domino

    domino New Member

    Good info on blue red and green loctite. I had bought red and was going to use it to reassemble my ht. Glad I read this thread. I now know blue is the way to go. You guy are a wealth of knowledge.
  15. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    Yes, a variant of superglue.
    I always thought it was funny, the thought of supergluing hardware together.
    Mind you that superglue itself will not in any way work like Loc-Tite will.
  16. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    Thank you for the tips, happycheapskate!
    I have only trued bicycle wheels and laced and trued motorcycle wheels. I was taught to use a light oil on motorcycle spoke nipples, and thought that it would also apply to bicycle wheels too. Now I know better.
  17. Yoda Bob

    Yoda Bob Member

    I second the thanks for the tips, happycheapskate.

    Loc-tite is probably over-kill. I'd forgotten about nail polish. Used it twenty years ago on the last set of wheels I built. Seemed to work just fine. The wheels stayed true and outlived the bike.

    Got a preference for color?
  18. Stan4d

    Stan4d New Member

    Real Man Talk

    I prefer "No I am not really a waitress" by O.P.I. kinda a reddish burgandy.
  19. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    Clear coat is best, or white. Use a very small brush or q-tips to apply it to the threads of the spoke, after starting the threading of the nipples and assembling the wheel, before tightening, or about halfway up the threads on each spoke.

    You can glue the bottle to a piece of cardboard to avoid tipping it over while working and allow for drips.

    Another tip: you can use nail polish remover (acetone) to clean threaded drilled holes and fasteners of dirt, grease, and loctite.

    Surely some female in your family will have a bottle of unwanted polish that you can have for free. Blood red polish works great for highlighting iron sights on rifles and paintball equipment. If you use it on your spokes, and people ask about it, you can tell them it is Phil Wood Super Bond Spoke Prep and its $25/oz, but you can't remember where to get it because you bought it in France. ;->

    If you are too embarrassed to buy any nail polish, get white or clearcoat model paint in the small Testors bottle. Apply carefully or you will mark up your rims or worse something in the house that the wife will find out about :sweatdrop:.

    Another great tip for wheelbuilding at home. Buy a cheap stubby flathead screwdriver and grind the sides down with a grinding wheel, till they fit inside spoke holes. You can quickly assemble wheels without an expensive nipple-driver tool, and still use it for regular screws.

    Last edited: Jun 9, 2010