Using a jump starter to power 12v headlight

Sharif

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I have been looking around for a cheap option to power headlights while being easily rechargeable and water resistant, came across 2 things, used drills and jump starters.

Would a jump starter fry the headlight or would it work as a regular battery and just send the amount of current that is being needed by the LED?
 
Drill battery's would work nicely for a neat and small 12v subsystem (50W ish)

Jump starter would work but it's not recommended. Their designed to supply a large amount of current for a few mins, not a long term running application.

Cheap is lantern battery's, 2x 6v10ah in series makes 12v 10ah so if you run a headlight with a super bright 10W LED (their ridiculously bright) you should have 12 hours of use.

Dynamo can be a good alternative too.
Issue with lantern batteries is that they are disposable, looking for something on the long term side.
I'll still keep looking. Personally I prefer to get my hands on lithium ion batteries of any sort, but charging them is the main issue
 
yeah, I have a iMax b6ac I charge my LiPo's with. but 4 lipos run about 35-$50 pending on mAh you want. then you need to wire them to a balance connector (RC part) so to charge each equally and an adjustable regulator to limit it to 12-13v.
lightest weight option. easiest is look for these new 12v lithium batteries I've seen. but they cost. cheapest option is a 12v SLA battery for alarm systems, but lead is heavy, ,
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yeah, I have a iMax b6ac I charge my LiPo's with. but 4 lipos run about 35-$50 pending on mAh you want. then you need to wire them to a balance connector (RC part) so to charge each equally and an adjustable regulator to limit it to 12-13v.
lightest weight option. easiest is look for these new 12v lithium batteries I've seen. but they cost. cheapest option is a 12v SLA battery for alarm systems, but lead is heavy, ,
View attachment 88308View attachment 88309
Don't you need a BMS as well?
 
not at all. the lipos have protection circuit on each, built in. the charger senses each battery and +/- each accordingly as it charges the pack thru the balance connector. charger was $32, connector was $6 for 5 of them. five 5000mAh Lipos $41 but I use only 4. digital regulator was $6, comes with clear case you put together if u want. I got all on Ebay.
so I have ~$40 plus charger for my lights and T signals, and entire battery setup on the bike is less than 2lbs. weight is everything. my old SLA is 6lb
 
not at all. the lipos have protection circuit on each, built in. the charger senses each battery and +/- each accordingly as it charges the pack thru the balance connector. charger was $32, connector was $6 for 5 of them. five 5000mAh Lipos $41 but I use only 4. digital regulator was $6, comes with clear case you put together if u want. I got all on Ebay.
so I have ~$40 plus charger for my lights and T signals, and entire battery setup on the bike is less than 2lbs. weight is everything. my old SLA is 6lb
I am planning on going the drill route, get a free drill out of it as well lol
It'll come in handy
 
not at all. the lipos have protection circuit on each, built in. the charger senses each battery and +/- each accordingly as it charges the pack thru the balance connector. charger was $32, connector was $6 for 5 of them. five 5000mAh Lipos $41 but I use only 4. digital regulator was $6, comes with clear case you put together if u want. I got all on Ebay.
so I have ~$40 plus charger for my lights and T signals, and entire battery setup on the bike is less than 2lbs. weight is everything. my old SLA is 6lb
I am planning on putting some turn signals as well once I get few more things sorted on this bike.
Starting with drilling out the sheared engine bolt...did I mention I don't have a drill lol
 
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