Using the Nu Vinci hub?

[Alaskavan]

It seems to me that if you're willing to put $400 into the hub, creating a jackshaft, or having one made, is not that big of a problem. I'm sure there are people here who would help with the design, etc. But, you shouldn't lose sight of the basic fact that a limited amount of horsepower will produce a limited speed given the realities of weight, friction, and wind resistance. And increasing horsepower does not seem to improve the reliability of the Happy Time engine.

 

[Large Filipino]

That's true. You gotta keep the happy time singing.
I wonder if that hub could handle a Briggs and Stratton 5 horse mounted rack style with a jackshaft and a go cart style centrifical clutch for smooth traffic light wheelies....I need a welder.

 

[Zomby Builder]

Left drive

Van is right. A go-cart jackshaft kit will set you back about 30 bucks & the freewheels & adapters another 40. You can set it up to be driven from either side of the frame. (I have made them both ways) To answer your questions about driving the NuVinci from the disk hub --Forget about it. You will not be able to take advantage of the gears. Dave Staton has a way to drive it with 2 chains. I think he has a double freewheel mounted to the right side. But they are both on the right side so to me that makes your frame mount look off center too much. If you want to use this hub with a Happy time motor you will def want to consider a jackshaft. Another advantage in doing this is you will straighten out your chain paths. No need for a tensioner. Your chains will be a lot shorter too. You can install the jackshaft in the seatpost just behind the motor or Chop the frame behind your Crank bottom bracket, then weld in another bottom bracket to house your jackshaft. The latter will stretch most V type frames 10 inches. For detailed pics & instructions on how to build a jackshaft go to

http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=6335

 

[Zomby Builder]

I Lied

Sorry bout that.. I can only pedal this bike 35 mph. Not 40 as I said in another post. Just tried again. The speedo needle vibrates + or - 5mph. Still goes past the 40 without trouble but my narrow a** can't keep on pedals past 35...

 

[Large Filipino]

That's still fast enough to drive on the road instead on the side of the road in residential streets where the speed limit is 25 anyway,and that's keeping up with mopeds.

 

[Barret]

Found this and thought it to be very informative about the mechanics of the hub: http://www.fallbrooktech.com/NuVinci.asp

Make sure you check out the "Demo" link to see how it works!

 

[OldPete]

Found this and thought it to be very informative about the mechanics of the hub: http://www.fallbrooktech.com/NuVinci.asp

Make sure you check out the "Demo" link to see how it works!

Thanks. I did read about the traction oil used. This tech sounds too good to be true. I might end up with a bicycle so equiped, Sure would make a cross country trip pulling a trailer do able for old legs.

 

[andyinchville1]

FWIW - I spoke to the tech guy at NuVinci and he said that the the cvt will shift under power BUT it would require more effort to change ratios....probably best to shift this unit
as one would shift an internal geared hub.....

I've been looking into the NuVinci as an alternate method of getting multiple speeds on our motored bikes (as some may know I have been experimenting with a modified SRAM Dual Drive hub....unfortunately the cost to MOD this hub for 3 speeds is on up there with the NuVinci hub itself...(SRAM Duo Drive hub is about $245 delivered, Plus machine work of about $200 actually makes it relatively cost inefficient when a NuVinci is about $400 ready to go (well except for the required jackshaft and 2 sprockets)....Trick is to get the
Nuvinci For less less than $400....Which I may be able to do shorty for our SuperCycles...
Stay tuned!
Andrew

 

[Zomby Builder]

Opened my Drop-Outs

The NuVinci is not the weak link on my set-up. Even my beefed up rear drop-outs actually opened up under torque.

These are off a Tandam bike too. The hub is locked into place on both sides with the left side being the weak link. I couldn't freakin believe it. The axle twisted the lock washer & opened up the dropout so much that I lost my lug bolt. I compared the drop-outs size to my other bikes & Zack has the biggest ones of all. The hub is fine but now how do I correct this???

 

[andyinchville1]

Zomby,
You could weld a torque arm (a rod or bar of steel) to the axle and have the other end of the rod attach to the chain stay....that should counter act the tendency of the axle to want to twist...the longer the bar the better within reason.
Andrew