Using thumb throttle for front braking ?

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Tauseef, Jul 12, 2016.

  1. Tauseef

    Tauseef Member

    I wish to use the lever of thumb throttle for front braking. The main lever(with twin braking nut) will be used only for rear brake .
    Will it be a good idea ?

    Reason is that i have V brakes znd with this twin brake lever there will be need for brake adjustment every now and then if both front n rear are tied to single lever. In case front is separated to thumb it will gv me more freedom of braking. But i m just curious will that plastic of thumb throttle hold on n will the idea work ?

    Attached Files:

  2. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    you want the most power at the front, most of the dual pull levers are "self adjusting" to a degree and dont mind a bit of inequality between front and rear, a thumb lever is never going to give you the braking power you require when you really need to stop like four fingers does.

    i always liked to have my dual lever set so both wheels will lock up on gravel, and will still do endo's if you jerk forward when braking hard on tarmac.

    and over a year later...i still havent adjusted the brakes again. though they are starting to feel a bit sad....
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  3. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Well-Known Member

    What is the leverage ratio and the maximum cable pull length of the Thumb throttle lever?
    Dual pull levers were invented for tricycles' rear brakes and I would never ever everrrr put one on a bicycle of any kind. Better to have no rear brake at all!
  4. Tauseef

    Tauseef Member

    The leverage it overs is about 2.5 inches !

    What i am really worried is that in case of a little drizzle if the front wheel brale goes more than "wanted" my front tyres can skid.
    And i really really like the rear brakes i actually rely more on them than the front ones.
  5. Tauseef

    Tauseef Member

    Okayy i am giving them they try with both brakes conncted to lever and not the thumb thorttle.
    I get it that thumb will not be that efficient for 'braking'
  6. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Well-Known Member

    I mean how it compares to to a v brake lever. Not that I have ever measured or "googled" the ratio and pull of a v brake lever.
    I would be very surprised if you can get the front to skid before the rear goes if braking effort is divided equally.
    I will assert that emergency braking is done with the front. When the front brake is being applied to it's maximum effect the rear tyre has no weight or traction (on the verge of doing an endo or going OTB).
  7. Tauseef

    Tauseef Member

    Its traction is comparable with the brake lever, both give about the same pull !!

    My practise has always been opposite, if I ever needed to brake emergently i start with the rear brake :p
    (Perhaps,as , years back ,once my front tyre skidded on a rainy day very very badly when i had applied only the front brake...and then i made it my second priority in applying brake)(though i apply both together now,mostly)...
    I have 3 levers. Clutch, and 2brakes.
    And everytime i plan on using the twin brake lever i am confused about it !
  8. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    If you have a twin brake that uses this type of lever system, which equals the forces evenly between the two brake cables (look at picture) then be wary of only putting a single brake cable in it, it can put bad strain on the mechanism, and also tends to lack modularity, as in the brakes just feel weak or mushy rather than responsive. You would be better using a single pull lever with a single cable.

    Had this lever when I had a brake caliper break, I instantly lost almost all breaking power, it was wet, and I was heading towards a red-light, luckily I was on flat ground and I was able to grind my boot along my front wheel which slowed me enough that I could stop... Talk about scarey

    Attached Files:

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  9. Tauseef

    Tauseef Member

    Interestingly , it is the same as you have made in the diagram. And yes i have checked it that, with one cable attached, lever has a swayed line of action and will break away. Thats an excellent explanation and so i have attached both brakes' cables to the lever and so far its working very good.
    My riding experience has also improved as no i have two levels to play with rather than three.
  10. libranskeptic

    libranskeptic Member

    While u guys are here, what do you think of having both v brakes and mechanical disk brakes, mainly at the front?
  11. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    I'd say be careful, that's an easy way to lock up the front wheel, not that you'll go flying over the bars, but your steering is defined by the front wheel, that locks up and your not going to steer away from the object your braking for in the first place.

    When I adjust my brakes, I make the rear brake first with my double lever, this way it's likely to lock up first (physics basically does it, but I still like to think it's my doing, being that the front wheel does most of the stopping, the forces behind the wheel will make it be the last to lock up since less force is being applied to the rear wheel)

    On a motorcycle you have the advantage of having separate levers, one on the bar and the other on the foot, so lockups are easily fixed without losing braking power.

    Anyone figure out how to make a foot brake for a rear wheel? (not coaster)

    More I think about it I like the idea of a thumb brake, but it's the leverage I worry about, and the lack of room on my handlebars
  12. libranskeptic

    libranskeptic Member

    Anyone figure out why half the guys here bother with pedals? Theres your problem with a footbrake. No pedals, no problem.

    OK, well u r not dead against it.

    It just seems that redundancy and different characteristic brakes and pads, would give service in a broader range of conditions - mud/wet..., and braking surfaces (rim & disk), and cooling benefits, and different at wheel stress points - at opposite ends of the spokes - center and periphery. If one wont grip, the other might well.

    I think i like brakes that lock up. I just have to get used to correct force application.

    I have considered lack of handle bar space also, in an ebike context - extra instruments etc.

    It seems oddly neglected, along with frames that pay no heed to space for a decent battery.

    Seems to me bars need a parallel extension in front for lights/meters/cameras. Those touring bars u rest your elbows on may help.
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2016
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  13. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    I know I know, foot brakes are a silly pipe dream, luckily I have a welder and plenty of pipe laying around, on another note I've seen a few pretty nice double levers, like it's a clutch and a brake, or 2 brakes, or 2 clutches if you're into that kind of thing. Here's a link, generally speaking it should work on a bike, opens some options too for a variety of riders, and you can probably find the cheap eBay version of this as well.

    Pic for link fearers included.

    As far as brakes that lock up, OK I get it yes brakes that can lock up are ideal, I mean how good at stopping if they can't be stopped anyways? I prefer avid bb5 or 7, use sintered pads and had reliable stopping power in litteraly every form of weather, had a bigger issue with the tire traction than brake friction. But that's just me... living in a temperate zone... you know, with rain and snow in the same week and there's plenty of potholes and mud in Pennsylvania to go around.

    I had to extend my handle bars 3 inches on each side to accommodate the extras, I've since run out of room and may end up using fence pole connectors to do just what you said, and add some extra handle bar room, I would like to be able to have a second mirror, maybe even hand shields (it gets so cold in the winter my carb frosts over along with my hands and the 2 pairs of gloves, wind protection would be nice)

    Frame space? Don't get me started on the jigsaw puzzle that is the (dis)assembly routine for my motor...

    Touring bars could fit a nice number of doodads, I don't know how or where a throttle assembly would fit, but I could see myself bolting a set of bars to my current bars to get the extra room, the scooter speedometer would sit nicely in one of the round bends too, like it was made for a vintage speedometer and not for hands or arms or something.

    Attached Files:

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  14. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Well-Known Member

    Standard practice on touring tandem bicycles, only on the front. They use separate levers, though. The disc brake avoids heating the rim and blowing the tyre off on long descents. The rim brake can be used occasionally for exta power (or) when the disc brake is fading from heat buildup.
    Dual pull (tricycle rear brake) levers divide the effort between the two wheels. No complete bicycles ever come with the dual pull lever. It is probably against the law, since it is clearly cheaper than equipping them with two levers.
    For computer/speedo/lights there are bars that attach to your star fangled nut in place of the original stem cap. Very inexpensive on eBay etc.
    Triathlon/tri/aero bars are pretty useless for attaching any controls to because you have to let go of the grips/ move away from the other controls. Butterfly/trekking bars are impossible to get the controls around the bend (okay if they are two-piece clamps but nearly all levers are single piece pinch bolt clamps) and you would still have to move your hands off the normal position.