V clamp brake vs Disc

Discussion in 'Bicycle Repair' started by Fly1, Jan 23, 2015.

  1. Fly1

    Fly1 Member

    I know Disc Brakes, have better stopping power over V clamp wheel brakes.
    But is there a hug difference?


  2. boyntonstu

    boyntonstu Member

    How do you know?
  3. Fly1

    Fly1 Member

    I don't for sure, but I have been told that. And you say????

  4. boyntonstu

    boyntonstu Member

    I have no data to offer an opinion.

    What has your research discovered?
  5. butre

    butre Well-Known Member

    rim brakes don't offer any better or worse stopping power than discs assuming the quality of components is similar. think about how a rim brake works vs how a disc brake works, it's exactly the same. it's like having a big 26 inch rotor. the problem is that rim brakes get wet easily and don't work so good once that happens.

    I personally prefer drum brakes. they don't stop as quick, suffer from serious fade problems, and they're easy to lock up, but they're completely unaffected by the environment. I can roll through water, mud, sand, anything I like and drum brakes will work as well as they would have on clean dry pavement.
  6. Fly1

    Fly1 Member

    Brute they now have these hydraulic disc brakes.I was wondering if they have more
    clamping power to the disc.I was thinking on the lines from the ole mechanical brakes
    cars had many years back to when they up dated to hydraulic later on.

    I,m very new to bicycles, as you can see.But since I finished my first build, and we go
    much faster then the average bicycle, I,m finding out these thing do stop that great.

    My bike is brand new, but I did some checking on some bike forms to see if indeed
    there was a better pad that would help.People seem to like Kool-Stop pads, so I
    ordered some.I have not received them yet.I was told most cheaper bikes come
    with cheap hard rubber pads.

    I,m hoping this will help.I can already see some grooving on my rims.The Kool-Stop
    pads are said to be softer. Even if they wear faster, I don't care if they grip better
    & don,t wear the rims as fast.

    More comments from you guys would be helpful. I,m just trying to learn.

  7. Ollie

    Ollie Member

    My hydraulic disc brake has huge stopping power without having to pull hard on the lever, but if you're just talking about mechanical (cable) disc brakes then I've found they perform about the same as V-brakes when set up properly.

    V-brakes are lighter, but lose power when your rims get wet.

    Cable disc brakes don't care if your rims are plastered in mud, but the disc can be bent easily during a crash, rendering them useless.

    Drum/roller/coaster brakes have less power but are protected from the elements and hard to damage.
  8. darwin

    darwin Well-Known Member

    Must be a reason engineers recommend disc brakes on motorcycles and cars, never seen one recommend v brakes over disc. V brakes are a cheap alternative for a light weight bike. Personally I prefer V brakes over other rim type brakes.
  9. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    im probably wrong, nothing to do with neatness simplicity or hours of use has any bearing on the engineers decison...

    hey, why do we use discs when we could stick these rim brakes on the the next R1?

    hmmmm.... people dont like changing their moto rims. or car rims much. not very good to use them as a braking surface.

    but thats a totally different area of engineering, aint it?

    here we are talking bikes... lightweight, cheap, economical... they dont have to stop from +200mph. they dont have to stop day in day out, all day long. some rides, im lucky to even touch the brakes other than to stop at the end!

    theres lots of sites detailing exactly how to set up v brakes.
    when you do set them up properly, well...

    no matter what the braking device used, once it can lock the wheel up freely, stopping power is determined by your ability to stop the front wheel from locking up, your ability to transfer your weight, the terrain...

    disc brakes, v brakes, some of the old cantilever brakes, theyre all powerful enough to flick you over the bars without a seconds thought, usually with one finger.

    why have super powerful brakes that can stop an elephant dead if you keep flying through the air as the bike DID stop like a dead elephant?

    never had issues with water mud or similar on my v-brakes. or me cantilevers.

    someone raised the issue of bending discs...

    i will NEVER ride disc brakes in the bush!
  10. Paul E.

    Paul E. Member

    I don't have any before and after data, but my front disk/rear side pull. one hand brake lever combo seems to get me stopped fairly quickly.

    Like others, I've assumed disk to be better without any data
  11. professor

    professor Active Member

    On my pedaller, I have a disc on the front and V in back.
    The disc seems wimpy.
    The dual v brakes on another bike (a higher end one stops super.
    I wouldn't ever use the old caliper brakes.
  12. Fly1

    Fly1 Member

    Well my bike is new. But it does not stop as good as I would like. If it was just a peddle bike
    I would say ok. But with the engine, faster speed extra weight it needs a little more stopping. I may not have
    it adjusted just right ether. Maybe that's it, you guys know much more about such things than me.

  13. Fly1

    Fly1 Member

    Well I bought some Kool- stop brake shoes & pads .I see they are longer then the OEM pads. So more
    pad area. I took it down the street just now, but not far. I can tell some difference but not a lot.
    We will see once they seat in. But I do think they will make a difference after some riding.

    Man I,m learning some much about bicycles. I really did not know how much there is to learn.

    Having fun though. Fly
  14. boyntonstu

    boyntonstu Member

    More pad area, less force.
  15. Fly1

    Fly1 Member

    Well yes, I thought about that also.But the Kool- stop pads are softer also.
    They have great reviews.I do know this,as most here know.My new bike stopped much
    better the more I road it.

    When I first got it I thought no way this is going to cut it.But as the pads started to
    seat in they stopped about 25% better.These pad out of the packet already stop
    a tad better.Let me ride it & get them broke in some & I will give you a honest opinion.

  16. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    my money is on this lil factor.

    they can be fiddly to setup...

    how to explain to do them?...

    insert new pads, only finger tighten nuts.

    pop rubber band around arms to hold em shut to the rim.

    square them up to the rim, ensuring that as they wear, they wont start chewing sidewalls.

    also make sure that (due to slop) when you apply the brakes and they try rotating under load, that the shoe still wont hit the sidewall.

    they also need to be completely on the rims, no overhangs!


    that rotation from applying the brakes works two ways.

    youll find that the fronts of the shoes tend to come apart as the arm rotates slightly( under braking load). or, vice versa, the rears of the pads get closer together.

    so we give the pads a touch of pre rotation, or "toe-in", so the front of the pads touch first. then, under load, they rotate slightly and the ENTIRE pad comes into contact with the rim.

    something about 1-2mm thick at the rear of the pad, as you finally tighten them up, usually gives just enough toe-in.

    sounds complex, takes all of two minutes :)

    then you can fiddle with the cable, the balancing screws, and yay! stop like a dead elephant :)

    there is virtually NO bed in. they either work perfectly out of the box or somethings wrong...
    Paul E. likes this.
  17. Paul E.

    Paul E. Member

    great freekin tips on adjusting brake pads! exited to do this tomorrow!
  18. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    ;) indeed. just have to think symmetry and action/reaction that goes on. replacing the brakes on your car is much easier than bike brakes. and most people leave that to mechanics... what? undo a bolt, swing up caliper, replace pads, push in piston...replace caliper, bolt, done?...pffft.

    what annoys me is that early on, cantilevers and v-brakes had shoes with no threads, just a rod. they were so easy to setup! (you would know if you had them and had tried) now they all seem to use the threaded ones with the spherical washers. the problem being that as you tighten up the nuts, the pads try twisting, upsetting oh so carefully made adjustments :( so you gotta compensate and on some bikes, its a pain in the...donkey.

    in my mind, a bit of a backwards step to those horrible pads they typically use on caliper/side pull brakes! (same deal...tweak those for toe in and otherwise square rim contact and they start to work...sort of :jester: )

    anyways. they should always feel solid from the word go...depending on pad compound. any "squishiness" is bad setup or overly long outer casing runs...
  19. Fly1

    Fly1 Member

    HeadSmess what a great tip.It is funny, I had looked on you-Tube on setting up these
    brakes & so on. Those guys did a good job telling how to do it.When I first started
    reading your reply I thought ya same advice till you started, explaining the tow in thing.

    They never touched on that. Great response, this should be made a sticky on this form.

  20. Fly1

    Fly1 Member

    Well I must say these Kool stop pads are worth buying. As they wear in they keep griping better
    the more I ride.