Video of my bike, first start.

[Gordy]

Looks good, but like said numerous times, that chain need some links pulled out

 

[robe]

You can get it set up perfectly new. then after the chain wears in you are back to slack.
Dedicated mechs will reposition the motor again to take up the slack but personally I don't mind having the four bolt tensioner. Works ok for me but takes a bit to set it up correctly and the nylon roller can be an issue.

 

[Chainlube]

You can get it set up perfectly new. then after the chain wears in you are back to slack.
Dedicated mechs will reposition the motor again to take up the slack but personally I don't mind having the four bolt tensioner. Works ok for me but takes a bit to set it up correctly and the nylon roller can be an issue.

I've broken a few of those. Then I learned to give the bracket a little twist to line up the roller with the chain, haven't broken a roller since.

 

[Trek 700c 100cc]

That spring tensioner won't keep it tight when moving?

The motor is vibrating too much, maybe balancing issues. And intake was leaking.

 

[Trek 700c 100cc]

Why are you standing there looking at it? Get on it and have some fun, nice job!

Thanks! It pulls hard, I was surprised.

 

[Trek 700c 100cc]

I've run em close like that with a spring tensioner but it's not a good idea.
I'd remove the rear tensioner, take a link out, and it should be fine.
There's pros and cons to both type tensioners. I was never a fan of the non-spring loaded tensioner but they do work fine if set correctly.
Since most MB's have no rear shock and swing arm the real right way of doing this is probably a set up with no tensioner.
One link +/- makes a tremendous difference in chain slack.

For some it may seem overwhelming to cut a chain when first starting out. It's not hard to do and there's more than one way to do it.
I grind the pin tip and use a hammer n punch to drive the pin out.

I will try to shorten chain asap. Thanks for looking out.