Want to stop engine braking

[bikeman1212]

Hey everyone!

I've been wondering if anyone has figured out how to eliminate engine braking on their 4-stroke Huasheng 142F engine when going downhill for example. It's really annoying to deal with that abrupt slowdown. I read somewhere that a "dual freewheel" setup might solve this issue. Could someone explain what that involves?

Currently, my setup is as follows: the motor connects to a t-belt transmission, and then there's a small 10-tooth sprocket on the transmission shaft, which drives a 44-tooth sprocket on my wheel. The 44-tooth sprocket is bolted to the wheel and secured with rubber clamps on the spokes.

Does "dual freewheel" mean adding a freewheel to the 10-tooth sprocket? I couldn't find any 10-tooth freewheel sprocket online.

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

Hey everyone!

I've been wondering if anyone has figured out how to eliminate engine braking on their 4-stroke Huasheng 142F engine when going downhill for example. It's really annoying to deal with that abrupt slowdown. I read somewhere that a "dual freewheel" setup might solve this issue. Could someone explain what that involves?

Currently, my setup is as follows: the motor connects to a t-belt transmission, and then there's a small 10-tooth sprocket on the transmission shaft, which drives a 44-tooth sprocket on my wheel. The 44-tooth sprocket is bolted to the wheel and secured with rubber clamps on the spokes.

Does "dual freewheel" mean adding a freewheel to the 10-tooth sprocket? I couldn't find any 10-tooth freewheel sprocket online.

Thanks in advance for any help!

What you need to learn is throttle control.

I've got a 4 stroke Robin Subaru 35. I also use a tachometer. My engine's max hp rpm is at 7000. So if I'm in my highest gear once I go beyond 7000 rpm while going down hill, I completely let off of the throttle because gravity has taken over as the accelerating force and my engine is no longer contributing to acceleration. Then my engine is at a idle rpm of 3000; thus causing the centrifugal clutch to drop below 4000 rpm and disengage.

If for example I was only holding half throttle while going down hill, I'd then be engine braking and damaging my clutch. By the way my engine is 14 years old and still has the original clutch in it.

 

[bikeman1212]

What you need to learn is throttle control.

I've got a 4 stroke Robin Subaru 35. I also use a tachometer. My engine's max hp rpm is at 7000. So if I'm in my highest gear once I go beyond 7000 rpm while going down hill, I completely let off of the throttle because gravity has taken over as the accelerating force and my engine is no longer contributing to acceleration. Then my engine is at a idle rpm of 3000; thus causing the centrifugal clutch to drop below 4000 rpm and disengage.

If for example I was only holding half throttle while going down hill, I'd then be engine braking and damaging my clutch. By the way my engine is 14 years old and still has the original clutch in it.

Right, but in my case I let go of the throttle and it continues to slow my bike down. So my clutch is always engaged maybe? Could this be that bronze bearing?

So if I understand this correctly, our transmission already has a "dual freewheel" ?

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

Right, but in my case I let go of the throttle and it continues to slow my bike down. So my clutch is always engaged maybe?

How do you know you're slowing down? Do you use a speedometer? Do you have a tachometer? Did you set your idle rpm with a tachometer?

 

[bikeman1212]

How do you know you're slowing down? Do you use a speedometer? Do you have a tachometer? Did you set your idle rpm with a tachometer?

I can physically feel it and my speedometer slows down too, my tachometer hasn't arrived yet sadly.

I think my clutch is probably always engaged then? If I idle the bike and lift the back wheel it starts moving by itself. I suspect this might have to do with the bronze bushing used in the clutch bell.

I did not set the idle rpm with a tachometer. From what I read in the manual, the idle should be 2.5k +- 200

 

[Chainlube]

I can physically feel it and my speedometer slows down too, my tachometer hasn't arrived yet sadly.

I think my clutch is probably always engaged then? If I idle the bike and lift the back wheel it starts moving by itself. I suspect this might have to do with the bronze bushing used in the clutch bell.

I did not set the idle rpm with a tachometer. From what I read in the manual, the idle should be 2.5k +- 200

Turn your idle down until the wheel stops moving.

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

I can physically feel it and my speedometer slows down too, my tachometer hasn't arrived yet sadly.

I think my clutch is probably always engaged then? If I idle the bike and lift the back wheel it starts moving by itself. I suspect this might have to do with the bronze bushing used in the clutch bell.

You may need stronger springs on your clutch shoes. You could lift your back wheel and try adjusting the idle screw until the wheel stops spinning.

If you're using 26" tires and have the 20/100 transmission once you go beyond 24 mph down hill completely let off of the throttle. If you have a 20/80 transmission once you go beyond 30 mph going down hill completely let off of the throttle.

 

[bikeman1212]

Turn your idle down until the wheel stops moving.

Right, I tried lowering the idle as you suggested.

The motor had to be at an extremely low RPM to stop the wheel from moving, which caused it to bog down when I tried to accelerate.

The clutch I’m using is this one:

From what I’ve read on some threads, adding washers under the spring can make it engage later? It feels like it’s engaging at around 1,700 RPM.

 

[bikeman1212]

You may need stronger springs on your clutch shoes. You could lift your back wheel and try adjusting the idle screw until the wheel stops spinning.

If you're using 26" tires and have the 20/100 transmission once you go beyond 24 mph down hill completely let off of the throttle. If you have a 20/80 transmission once you go beyond 30 mph going down hill completely let off of the throttle.

Im using 26" tires, a 44 tooth sprocket, a 20 tooth clutch bell and a 100 tooth flywheell which is connected to the 10 tooth sprocket.

I will attempt to stop the engine from being constantly connected to the wheel tomorrow and will update you guys.

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

Im using 26" tires and a 44 tooth sprocket. I believe that would be 20/80?

I will attempt to stop the engine from being constantly connected to the wheel tomorrow and will update you guys.

If you plan to adjust the idle without a tachometer, then adjust it to where the engine is about to shut off. Use the brake to stop the wheel. Release the brake, if the wheel starts back spinning then you need stronger springs for the clutch shoes.

If the wheel doesn't start back spinning then do ⅛ turns to the idle screw until it starts to spin. Once you're at the clutch engagement point do a ½ turn back so the wheel no longer spins.

When you get your tachometer set the idle at 2800 rpm.