Want to stop engine braking

bikeman1212

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Hey everyone!

I've been wondering if anyone has figured out how to eliminate engine braking on their 4-stroke Huasheng 142F engine when going downhill for example. It's really annoying to deal with that abrupt slowdown. I read somewhere that a "dual freewheel" setup might solve this issue. Could someone explain what that involves?

Currently, my setup is as follows: the motor connects to a t-belt transmission, and then there's a small 10-tooth sprocket on the transmission shaft, which drives a 44-tooth sprocket on my wheel. The 44-tooth sprocket is bolted to the wheel and secured with rubber clamps on the spokes.

Does "dual freewheel" mean adding a freewheel to the 10-tooth sprocket? I couldn't find any 10-tooth freewheel sprocket online.

Thanks in advance for any help!
 
It really is called the "Real"...(Re-al)...lol.

You really didn't know that one Darwin???...lol.
Metal detectorists sometimes find half reales at colonial sites but they were made in Mexico but were talking 1700's before America had legal tender they used the British, Spanish and Irish currency.
 
Its like this for each pad:

View attachment 214997

So each washer you add, it will compress the spring more. But you cant add much before the washers won't allow the pad to go out enough to touch the bell housing.

- Red lines are to pillars that keep the pad in place.
- Green is a alan screw.
- Blue is the spring.
- Yellow is a arrow pointing where you add washers.
- Black is the clutch itself, theres 3 of these pads.

In the case of this design, the springs are always tensioned when you screw them in, and release it when the rpm is high enough.

Can I achieve the same goal by putting the washer on top of the spring?

I'm having an issue of removing the springs on a new clutch pad. I'm afraid of breaking the clutch material, it had already chipped a little.
 
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