Kc vale , i know its not recommended , but i torque them down by feel , i torque them down tight , put a few miles on her , torque down again , I use locktight as well , i also use the permatex gasket spray with the gaskets as well , of course i make sure theres no divots or deep scratches on the head.
 
Kc vale , i know its not recommended , but i torque them down by feel
That's just silly.
It's a $16 tool, delivered.
https://www.amazon.com/Tooluxe-03703L-Torque-Wrench-Hardened/dp/B0019VMI0Y/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1493740660&sr=8-6&keywords=torque+wrench'

Get all 4 head bolts hand tight, then working in an X pattern tighten them to 5#, all at 5#, then all at 10#, then all at 15# and finally all at 20# in that crossing X pattern.

Yes that is higher than the engine specs, but it is how you tighten it...
This works great on a 66cc as I don't get repairs for head gaskets which may very well be your issue.
 
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Kc vale , i know its not recommended , but i torque them down by feel , i torque them down tight , put a few miles on her , torque down again , I use locktight as well , i also use the permatex gasket spray with the gaskets as well , of course i make sure theres no divots or deep scratches on the head.

I've got to agree with KC's comments.
I've pushed my little bike to the limit trying to get great power out of it at both high and low rpm.
The headgasket is the first victim of high cylinder pressures and the stock cylinder head is often the next.
There is very little margin of error between too much and too little torque on these heads.
The stock head is really fussy about its torque value.

When properly torqued you will find the Locktite and lockwashers and even retorqueing are not needed.
Locktite is wonderful stuff if used right, such as to keep the studs in the case if you wish to.
It is not so needed for the head nuts, as their torque will keep them in place.
I haven't found a need to Permatex with a headgasket either. (try ThreeBond sealer, it is better)
If you torque properly there is no need for all the "crutches"

Lately I have been using Headsmess's trick of a teflon tape head gasket. Works wonderful.
That and proper torque of course...
 
If you are going to pull your head, just have the tool to put it back on right is all I'm saying.

I pull, paint, and reverse most every 2-stroke head build I do, it looks cooler.
You just don't want to be guessing at how to torque it back on as it matters more than you'd think.
 
THIS IS A WARNING IN WHY YOU SHOULD NOT INVEST IN CHINESE MOTOR (COMING FROM EXPERIENCE)
Okay, I bought a cheap $130 motor off ebay.
Casting is horrible, quick and cheap/defective.
Please look for good casting (highlighted in picture below).
BUY OFF QUALITY TRUE SITES SUCH AS ZBOX if your from AUS or Bikeberry for US.
It is not worth the pain. The motor I bought had these defective parts:
CDI
MAGNETO
SPARK PLUG
CYLINDER HEAD
GASKETS
The amount of money I have spent on REPLACING these parts is worth a quality engine. You will eventually have to swap out all of the parts just so you can have fun. I have spent:
12 hours Maintenance / Troubleshooting,
$100 on parts.
Please Buy Off A Trusted Website Or Brand.
Thanks for your time.

Doesn't matter who makes it.
A kit is gonna cost 180 AND you're gonna spend 180 in aftermarket to get a reliable ride day 1 on the cheapest dirtiest kit out there. 100 dollar kit with 260 in aftermarket isn't gonna have issues.

Cut corners and not reinforce anything you'll have issues on anything.
 
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