Was this kit a good purchase? also what is reed valve/ported engine, Picture included
- Thread starter Antonio3
- Start date
Vikingimike01
Well-Known Member
Reed valve basically is like for preventing the fuel from going back into the carb, and stabilizes the fuel/air mixture (i belive)
Ported is the ports where the fuel+air mix goes in is enlarged/matched, and same for the exhaust side.
Probably a good buy since mine was that much stock oof
Ported is the ports where the fuel+air mix goes in is enlarged/matched, and same for the exhaust side.
Probably a good buy since mine was that much stock oof
BIG BOBBY
Active Member
- Local time
- 2:26 AM
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2019
- Messages
- 158
ported means somebody went in there with a Dremel and widened the passages where fuel gets sucked into the combustion chamber. intake "PORT"-ing. usually there's other things done too with the Dremel like smoothing /chamfering the edges of inlets where the rings have to pass over so they don't snag or catch,...and then there's usually something done to the piston skirt also. don't think that because it says ported means anything has actually been done. unless you do it yourself, or you really know what youre looking at ,...you get the picture.
people throw that word around like it means your 66cc is now a dragster motor. it provides minimal gains by itself. porting needs to be accompanied by: bigger carb,...and aftermarket head,..and aftermarket cdi.
a reed valve IS a big step. when the engine sucks in air thru a stockNT carb,... it exhales some right out through the same hole. it just does. and you lose that. that could have/should have been in your crankcase, so next revolution,..the mixture would be under more pressure and instead of your motor having to SUCK more fuel up/in,..it would already be under some pressure and shoot It self in there,..making your engine not have to do that work,..meaning your crankshaft will spin faster,...with less wasted effort. it's a one-way check valve into your crankcase/intake port..
people throw that word around like it means your 66cc is now a dragster motor. it provides minimal gains by itself. porting needs to be accompanied by: bigger carb,...and aftermarket head,..and aftermarket cdi.
a reed valve IS a big step. when the engine sucks in air thru a stockNT carb,... it exhales some right out through the same hole. it just does. and you lose that. that could have/should have been in your crankcase, so next revolution,..the mixture would be under more pressure and instead of your motor having to SUCK more fuel up/in,..it would already be under some pressure and shoot It self in there,..making your engine not have to do that work,..meaning your crankshaft will spin faster,...with less wasted effort. it's a one-way check valve into your crankcase/intake port..
darwin
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 12:26 AM
- Joined
- May 26, 2008
- Messages
- 8,014
Your getting a machined head for xtra cooling, nice air breather, intake seems better than stock kits. Your getting some value in better parts. If it is indeed ported that alone is worth some $$$ and added performance. Seems like a decent deal, definitely not a ripoff.
BIG BOBBY
Active Member
- Local time
- 2:26 AM
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2019
- Messages
- 158
some of those sites will botch the job (porting) --and still plop it in the box and sell it to you. because it will still run. but you,.. the new guy,... have no idea that the guy f***ed up,....all you know is that your reed valve is giving you more power than your other, bare bones motor and youre happy. you gotta watch these people.
someday in the future you will try it yourself,..and THEN you will understand a botch job from real port work.
IMO being able to successfully port a motor, and see a significant gain,... means you have left the ranks of boys and have become a master at these motors. that is the moment. I know,... because im STILL afraid to do it. LOL!!!
---ALL of those gains,... resulting from ALLL of that effort and $$$,.... mean nothing when your wrist pin bearing comes apart and destroys your motor. IMO its all a bunch of hooey. get a cheapo stock motor with a NT carb,.. set the needle right,... and keep the rpms low and varied. youll get 90 percent of the power,.. for 5x as long. ppl do this stuff,.....and then think they now have a suzuki RM125motor,... and proceed to scream the rpm's. wrist pin bearings don't like that. and the sad part is: if it isn't your wrist pin bearing that lets go,... something else surely will. these things just cant take a beating. and all those do-dads will make you THINK you can beat the hell out of it.
you CANT.
someday in the future you will try it yourself,..and THEN you will understand a botch job from real port work.
IMO being able to successfully port a motor, and see a significant gain,... means you have left the ranks of boys and have become a master at these motors. that is the moment. I know,... because im STILL afraid to do it. LOL!!!
---ALL of those gains,... resulting from ALLL of that effort and $$$,.... mean nothing when your wrist pin bearing comes apart and destroys your motor. IMO its all a bunch of hooey. get a cheapo stock motor with a NT carb,.. set the needle right,... and keep the rpms low and varied. youll get 90 percent of the power,.. for 5x as long. ppl do this stuff,.....and then think they now have a suzuki RM125motor,... and proceed to scream the rpm's. wrist pin bearings don't like that. and the sad part is: if it isn't your wrist pin bearing that lets go,... something else surely will. these things just cant take a beating. and all those do-dads will make you THINK you can beat the hell out of it.
you CANT.
Last edited:
darwin
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 12:26 AM
- Joined
- May 26, 2008
- Messages
- 8,014
Go buy a HF Dremel Bobby. You will not hurt the motor. Common sense will take over, rough/high spots, chamfer the edges. Your eyeballs will tell ya what needs to be done. Always wear safety glasses when using power tools. even a drill can sling a chip of metal w/force.
Vikingimike01
Well-Known Member
To be honest it's very easy to port. Don't be scared. You can have huge gains. And, you don't need to replace the NT carb for it.
Vikingimike01
Well-Known Member
Yeah. They run fine. That's what I told myself before I tried porting (With a file!!!) 
Trust me. Just look it up how to do it properly. I read Gordon Jenning's 2 stroke tuning guide. That has helped a lot. Theres several pages about how to do it correctly.
Trust me. Just look it up how to do it properly. I read Gordon Jenning's 2 stroke tuning guide. That has helped a lot. Theres several pages about how to do it correctly.
JerboaJohn
Well-Known Member
like Bobby said, pending on source, can't be much porting.
but it's def worth it for a basic engine + head and add-on reed (I'd take it off and trade it, personally, u dont need) .
for 150 tho, I'm gonna guess the piston isn't windowed also which a reed really benefits from,,
hope to see it on your bike soon!
but it's def worth it for a basic engine + head and add-on reed (I'd take it off and trade it, personally, u dont need) .
for 150 tho, I'm gonna guess the piston isn't windowed also which a reed really benefits from,,
hope to see it on your bike soon!
most cases there definition of "porting" is just to half-assly clean them up and call it a day.
but for 150$ i would call that a deal! you get a bolt on reed, bigger carb (or at-least thats what it looks like, some ones on 107cc chinese atvs)
and a clone fred head.
also, i see you a new member, welcome!
just do proper brake in and enjoy that engine, even if those modification add .1hp, itll still be fun and hey, who doesn't think that looks cool!
enjoy that engine man
but for 150$ i would call that a deal! you get a bolt on reed, bigger carb (or at-least thats what it looks like, some ones on 107cc chinese atvs)
and a clone fred head.
also, i see you a new member, welcome!
just do proper brake in and enjoy that engine, even if those modification add .1hp, itll still be fun and hey, who doesn't think that looks cool!
enjoy that engine man
Similar threads
