Water cooled head!

Something I just randomly stumbled on. It's a 47mm head for the Puch big bore cylinder. Not sure if there is enough meat to drill it to fit. Maybe racers could use it. Would be great for the show off crowd.

https://www.treatland.tv/MLM-puch-water-cooled-head-47mm-GILARDONI-kit-p/mlm-lc-head-puch-003.htm

MLM-LC-head-puch-003-3T.jpg
The air cooled puch heads have been used on our engines,but the stud holes need to be enlarged to work with the 8mm studs,this one is a little more difficult, though It could be done without causing a leak.Question is why? I think Steve Best pointed out awhile back that all the extra hoses,pump,radiator and stuff required to do so makes it heavier and more complicated with no real gains to be had.When I thought about it it made no sense to me to go threw all the trouble when these operate at a much higher temp than a l/c engine does,Think about at what temp does water boil and then at what temp does your engine currently operate at ?.I dont recomend an externaly checked (i/r heat gun) temp over 300f and most will see just below that even after long periods of use,but an l/c engine operates at around 200f when checked externaly and that's due to the boiling point of the water.Reduced operating temps will reqiure different tunning and timmings to get the needed heat in the pipe to perform simularly and may not even work out to your advantage.
 
Gotta remember that as pressure increases the boiling point of water goes up. Its why when a coolant hose blows a bunch of steam pours out from under the hood, it flash steams when instantly brought back to atmospheric pressure.
 
couldn't you set it up to be pump less cooling if you hose it right it will cycle naturally with the heat the old Hit and miss engines did it i believe
 
passive cooling like that moves the fluid and heat exchange slowly, mostly for gentle heating and cooling applications. 350F would supply a hella lot of BTU's. mostly systems like that are bulky too.
now if I can find a way to mount peltier modules on an exhaust and scavenge some electricity without frying the chips...
 
Thermosyphon systems need a much bigger outlet hose and tube to the top of the radiator and an active, (always running cooling fan..) air circulation so the heated water gets denser as it cools and sinks making the coolant flow out the bottom radiator collector, back to the engine. They generally don't run thermostats which would slow down the coolant flow too much. They're a neat way to cool, low speed, low power level, antique type of engines.
 
You people are off your heads talking crap. You're talking about crappy low quality bad excuses for engines and you talk like you're playing with $100,000 Mercedes Benz AMG twin turbo V8 powerplants.... you people are bored LOL
 
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