Water cooled motobike

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Oct 13, 2019
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Big Island
I like to include in that math a range between engine and crankset that matches close enough 60rpm cadence to mid-motor RPM.

I enjoy boosting speed. My test up the most challenging street hill so far was the only hill I HAVE to help. Even then, I'd boost it above mid rpm, rest a bit while it slowly sagged, do it again, and it did well, I did too.

Its alwayz good to keep Plan B in shape. Case you run out of battery, or gas, done both recently, yeah I was dumb. But tough too.
Got the heavy duty bearing, I'm my previous china girl build I learned the hard way about overstressing the bearing, went through like 3🙁. I actually have seen this video seems nice, I really am trying to simplify the transmission want the least amount of gears to have to deal with shifting through. Probably not too ideal since I live on a mountain it's down the hill to the store but back up the hill home, really don't wanna pedal uphill. I guess what I'm hoping for is minimal gears with a wide range, which I'm sure is asking for too much
 
Local time
3:58 AM
Joined
Oct 13, 2019
Messages
32
Location
Big Island
I like to include in that math a range between engine and crankset that matches close enough 60rpm cadence to mid-motor RPM.

I enjoy boosting speed. My test up the most challenging street hill so far was the only hill I HAVE to help. Even then, I'd boost it above mid rpm, rest a bit while it slowly sagged, do it again, and it did well, I did too.

Its alwayz good to keep Plan B in shape. Case you run out of battery, or gas, done both recently, yeah I was dumb. But tough too.
Got the heavy duty bearing, I'm my previous china girl build I learned the hard way about overstressing the bearing, went through like 3🙁. I actually have seen this video seems nice, I really am trying to simplify the transmission want the least amount of gears to have to deal with shifting through. Probably not too ideal since I live on a mountain it's down the hill to the store but back up the hill home, really don't wanna pedal uphill. I guess what I'm hoping for is minimal gears with a wide range, which I'm sure is asking for too mu
Actually, it's only a 3lbs battery and the pump is quite small. I have a 20amp fuse, a switch and a weatherproof box for it all and it works quite well. Bike cools down real quick. Nice to be able to run it with the bike off. Gonna upgrade to a temp sensor to save battery power, but at .3 amps it uses very little power👍
https://www.bgm-tuning.com/en/product-category/rahmen/elektrik/wasserpumpen-elektrik/

Here is the pump. I said it was .3 amps but it is actually .15 amps, so my 5ah battery is plenty. Got a 12v meter hooked up to the battery keep track where I'm at. Took some time to find this cool pump it's from Germany for scooters. If I could find a more compact battery system in the future I will upgrade, prototype v1 if course
 

Sidewinder Jerry

Well-Known Member
Local time
9:58 AM
Joined
Mar 14, 2011
Messages
3,520
Location
Rockwood, TN
Got the heavy duty bearing, I'm my previous china girl build I learned the hard way about overstressing the bearing, went through like 3🙁. I actually have seen this video seems nice, I really am trying to simplify the transmission want the least amount of gears to have to deal with shifting through. Probably not too ideal since I live on a mountain it's down the hill to the store but back up the hill home, really don't wanna pedal uphill. I guess what I'm hoping for is minimal gears with a wide range, which I'm sure is asking for too mu

https://www.bgm-tuning.com/en/product-category/rahmen/elektrik/wasserpumpen-elektrik/

Here is the pump. I said it was .3 amps but it is actually .15 amps, so my 5ah battery is plenty. Got a 12v meter hooked up to the battery keep track where I'm at. Took some time to find this cool pump it's from Germany for scooters. If I could find a more compact battery system in the future I will upgrade, prototype v1 if course
So since you want fewer gears my suggestion was to get rid of the 36t chainring and replace it with a 30t chainring. Next, build my 4-speed 34-16 freewheel. Then you'll have no problem dealing with going up the hill.
 

Sidewinder Jerry

Well-Known Member
Local time
9:58 AM
Joined
Mar 14, 2011
Messages
3,520
Location
Rockwood, TN
Got the heavy duty bearing, I'm my previous china girl build I learned the hard way about overstressing the bearing, went through like 3🙁. I actually have seen this video seems nice, I really am trying to simplify the transmission want the least amount of gears to have to deal with shifting through. Probably not too ideal since I live on a mountain it's down the hill to the store but back up the hill home, really don't wanna pedal uphill. I guess what I'm hoping for is minimal gears with a wide range, which I'm sure is asking for too mu

https://www.bgm-tuning.com/en/product-category/rahmen/elektrik/wasserpumpen-elektrik/

Here is the pump. I said it was .3 amps but it is actually .15 amps, so my 5ah battery is plenty. Got a 12v meter hooked up to the battery keep track where I'm at. Took some time to find this cool pump it's from Germany for scooters. If I could find a more compact battery system in the future I will upgrade, prototype v1 if course
I too, live in the mountains; I'm a large person (237 lbs) using a 4 stroke 33cc engine on a shifter bike. You aren't asking for too much. I've given you the solution to exactly what you're wanting.

Post in thread 'Water cooled motobike' https://motoredbikes.com/threads/water-cooled-motobike.61449/post-591478
 
Local time
3:58 AM
Joined
Oct 13, 2019
Messages
32
Location
Big Island
Took the bike out and right when I went to take off the chain fell off the chainring and wrapped around the bottom bracket and pulled and bent the derailleur....bummer. Shimano rapidshift cable was shorted than the revoshift twist grip the bike came with so I shortened the cable housing and messed that all up, and it just wasn't shifting smooth. Also, noticed the whole freewheel cassette is wobbling, probably a bent rim or hub. Gonna get the 30t chainring and probably go to a Shimano 6 speed 14-34t megarange setup, it will be the easiest plug and play. Had the 7 speed megarange on my last bike and it was great just a lot to shift through
 

Sidewinder Jerry

Well-Known Member
Local time
9:58 AM
Joined
Mar 14, 2011
Messages
3,520
Location
Rockwood, TN
Took the bike out and right when I went to take off the chain fell off the chainring and wrapped around the bottom bracket and pulled and bent the derailleur....bummer. Shimano rapidshift cable was shorted than the revoshift twist grip the bike came with so I shortened the cable housing and messed that all up, and it just wasn't shifting smooth. Also, noticed the whole freewheel cassette is wobbling, probably a bent rim or hub. Gonna get the 30t chainring and probably go to a Shimano 6 speed 14-34t megarange setup, it will be the easiest plug and play. Had the 7 speed megarange on my last bike and it was great just a lot to shift through
If you'll build the 4-speed freewheel that'll deal with some of your shifting issues. The freewheel is on a 2-stage 6-speedcore. The cogs are (34,28,22,16). As long as both cores have lock rings you should be able to build this using the 6 speed 34-14 mega-range and your old 7 speed 28-14.

20210226_083606.jpg



20210226_084441.jpg


20210226_083537.jpg

Check your axle and see if it's bent. Chances are you'll have to replace it with a cro-molly axle. Get a Sram X4 rear derailleur; it has a very strong tensioner spring. The Sram X3 shifter is for a 7-speed or lower freewheel. The Sidewinder came stock with a Shimano Tourney rear derailleur. It exploded on me.

20210507_135235.jpg


Mark20 suggested using a Sram X5 rear derailleur. In doing my research I found the difference between the X5 and X4 was weight. Well, most here will sacrifice weight any day for strength.

Here's a picture of my triple chainring shifter. Before I built the Sidewinder; I had a LandRider which shifted 7 gears automatically. On the Sidewinder, I put a 7-speed custom-built 34-13 freewheel. One would think 21 gears that are way too many and too complicated. Not so, I developed a color-coded shifting system. All shifting is done with the left hand. For a total of 9 sequential non-redundant ratios.

Red gears
1(1-3)
Steep hill climbing

Yellow gears
2(3-5)
Around town general use

Green gears
3(5-7)
Open road use

20210704_204950.jpg

20210704_204619.jpg

20210704_205017.jpg
 
Local time
3:58 AM
Joined
Oct 13, 2019
Messages
32
Location
Big Island
If you'll build the 4-speed freewheel that'll deal with some of your shifting issues. The freewheel is on a 2-stage 6-speedcore. The cogs are (34,28,22,16). As long as both cores have lock rings you should be able to build this using the 6 speed 34-14 mega-range and your old 7 speed 28-14.

View attachment 178704


View attachment 178703

View attachment 178705
Check your axle and see if it's bent. Chances are you'll have to replace it with a cro-molly axle. Get a Sram X4 rear derailleur; it has a very strong tensioner spring. The Sram X3 shifter is for a 7-speed or lower freewheel. The Sidewinder came stock with a Shimano Tourney rear derailleur. It exploded on me.

View attachment 178694

Mark20 suggested using a Sram X5 rear derailleur. In doing my research I found the difference between the X5 and X4 was weight. Well, most here will sacrifice weight any day for strength.

Here's a picture of my triple chainring shifter. Before I built the Sidewinder; I had a LandRider which shifted 7 gears automatically. On the Sidewinder, I put a 7-speed custom-built 34-13 freewheel. One would think 21 gears that are way too many and too complicated. Not so, I developed a color-coded shifting system. All shifting is done with the left hand. For a total of 9 sequential non-redundant ratios.

Red gears
1(1-3)
Steep hill climbing

Yellow gears
2(3-5)
Around town general use

Green gears
3(5-7)
Open road use

View attachment 178696
View attachment 178697
View attachment 178698

So found a 7 speed freewheel on Amazon, it is nickel plated and is 11-34t. I'll do a SRAM x3 7 speed shifter and an SRAM x4 rear derailleur. Then connect it to a 30t chainring. And see how that treats me. Can the SRAM shifter cable be changed if needed easily? With this longer cruiser bike the original revoshift cable was a bit longer than the Shimano rapidshift cable so it didn't fit the OEM cable housing, and I think the rinky dink housing I tried to use was a big problem cause it was pieced together a bit short and I had big problems getting it to reliably shift, and that's why the chain fell off
 

Sidewinder Jerry

Well-Known Member
Local time
9:58 AM
Joined
Mar 14, 2011
Messages
3,520
Location
Rockwood, TN
So found a 7 speed freewheel on Amazon, it is nickel plated and is 11-34t. I'll do a SRAM x3 7 speed shifter and an SRAM x4 rear derailleur. Then connect it to a 30t chainring. And see how that treats me. Can the SRAM shifter cable be changed if needed easily? With this longer cruiser bike the original revoshift cable was a bit longer than the Shimano rapidshift cable so it didn't fit the OEM cable housing, and I think the rinky dink housing I tried to use was a big problem cause it was pieced together a bit short and I had big problems getting it to reliably shift, and that's why the chain fell off
The cable can be easily changed out. The DNP freewheel splines are only compatible with DNP cores only. I see Drift Maniac now has an 11t freewheel; I don't know much about them.

Get these free wheels:

6-speed
MEGHNA Bike Freewheel 6 Speed/7 Speed/8 Speed/9 Speed Screw On Multiple Freewheel for Mountain Bike Road Bike Urban Bike https://a.co/d/fvfrrzO

8 speed
Sunrace Freewheel 8 Speed 13-34 Teeth https://a.co/d/dS1pgSW

With these freewheels, the cogs go all the way to the core instead of being riveted onto the back of another cog.

You'll need the 6-speed core, 28,16,14, and lock-ring.

7-speed 22 and 14

8 speed 34

You'll have lots of spacers to select from.

Grind the teeth of the 14s
 
Local time
3:58 AM
Joined
Oct 13, 2019
Messages
32
Location
Big Island
So I went with what I knew and grabbed a new Shimano tourney rear derailleur, that drift maniac 11-34t freewheel and a Shimano altus rapid shifter. Redid all the cabling and now it's shifting perfect and smooth. Changed the 36t chainring to a 30t. So gears are: 8t engine sprocket>47t sprocket>jackshaft>10t sprocket>44t chainring>30t chainring>34-11t freewheel.

Got the right side chain tensioner from sick bike parts and rigged up a left side engine chain tensioner, all good. Even got a Killswitch now. I've been running Amsoil blue synthetic at 30:1, just grabbed some conventional oil to swap out I've read it's better for breaking in the engine.

Took it for another ride today went a couple miles down the hill to the store and back!! No major issues. I was running it wot I know it's not good for break in but the gearing is still a little high, struggled up a couple hills needed a little pedal assist. No flexing on anything very good stress test.

The pump and radiator were doing great dispersing heat. Wrapped the exhaust with fiberglass exhaust wrap and added a shield. Got to push it on a flat had to be around 25-30 mph in 3rd before I was bouncing around had to let back in the throttle, need to swap front fork I have another quill stem Schwinn sidewinder bike with front suspension, that was my first bike.

Waiting a couple days on the tach and speedometer, grabbed a sigma 14.16 bike computer it was a little pricey but it gives mph, avg and max speed, it even gives altitude and gradient, so should be great for tuning 👍.

More stats to come want to take it to the highway and let it fly. Gonna eventually upgrade the battery to a ebike 24v battery they are form fit for a bike frame and I can use a 24-12v converter. Then I can get rid of the rear rack and battery and put the seat down all the way down.

Moderators Note:
I edited this to make paragraphs to make this post more readable rather then having "The Great Wall of China", wall of text, most people on forums tend to ignore walls of unbroken text and could be passing up on a good read only because of this...lol.
 
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