Weed eater build

I have this 4 stroke Troy bilt super bronco weed eater motor I want to do a friction drive build for my roadmaster mt fury how would I go about this it looks the same as the 38 cc kits you see and I want somehting I don’t have to spend much money on just to mess with here are pics of the motor and bike I will be using

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

Yes, I already have my 80cc cranbrook so with this build it is going to be more of a thrown together bike

If you want a 2-stroke shifter bike, I suggest using a 3 or 5-speed IGH behind the seat post as a transmission

 

[Redneckcruisersoftexas]

If you want a 2-stroke shifter bike, I suggest using a 3 or 5-speed IGH behind the seat post as a transmission

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No I am going to use the chainsaw engine on this bike. My 2 stroke engine wouldn’t fit in the frame because of where it sat on the frame. This is going to be a separate build from the cranbrook

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

No I am going to use the chainsaw engine on this bike. My 2 stroke engine wouldn’t fit in the frame because of where it sat on the frame. This is going to be a separate build from the cranbrook

You can still use an IGH as a transmission if you want a shifter bike.

 

[Redneckcruisersoftexas]

You can still use an IGH as a transmission if you want a shifter bike.

I want to mount the engine then run the chain where the red lines are and cut my crank where the pedals start

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

I want to mount the engine then run the chain where the red lines are and cut my crank where the pedals start
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I'd get rid of the rear derailleur and free hub. Replace the free hub with a 3 or 5-speed Internal Geared Hub. Then all you have to do is simply let off the throttle when shifting.

If you're using a rear derailleur, freehub, and no pedals, it'd require using minimal throttle to change gears.

 

[Redneckcruisersoftexas]

I'd get rid of the rear derailleur and free hub. Replace the free hub with a 3 or 5-speed Internal Geared Hub. Then all you have to do is simply let off the throttle when shifting.

If you're using a rear derailleur, freehub, and no pedals, it'd require using minimal throttle to change gears.

I looked at the internal hubs and they are expensive. Since this is going to be a low cost build do you think maybe if I set the chain on the wheel to the big sprocket and since the chain on the front sprocket is on the small one I would have a ok gear ratio ?

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

I looked at the internal hubs and they are expensive. Since this is going to be a low cost build do you think maybe if I set the chain on the wheel to the big sprocket and since the chain on the front sprocket is on the small one I would have a ok gear ratio ?

Here's the biggest problem with cheaping out; it often means compromises on safety, functionality, and dependability. Almost every time cheaping out ends up being more expensive than simply doing it right the first time.

A broken chain can cause damage to both you and the bike. With no pedals, it also means you'll be pushing the bike home or carrying it if the spokes get destroyed.

If the chainsaw turns 3600 rpm and you run a 10t sprocket to a 44t chainring; then run the 24t chainring to a 28t rear cog that's around a 5.13\1 reduction which won't be a low enough reduction.

My max hp is at 7000 rpm and my reduction range is 66.79\1 to 16.25\1.