FurryOnTheInside
In Memoriam
Yeah it is.
Murkle
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Alright cool. Thank you.
It can be modded to have it's outer 'part' (the part you would thread the spokes through) to have a sprocket, and use it as a jackshaft transmission. I've almost used a regular freewheel hub as a jack shaft to make it possible to pedal without pushing the motor, but I haven't built the bike I will use it on yet... So if I could get my hands on a NuVinci for cheaps, I'll use that instead. (Maybe, it depends on if I get the laws in my area figured out, there really scramble up for Oregon. I don't know what counts as "automatic" or if it's only based on wether or not I need to use a clutch.) Anyway, weld a sprocket to that sucker, use a jackshaft mount, and your good!
Thanks for letting me ramble.. I do that when I'm tied and on a forum...
FurryOnTheInside
In Memoriam
I think you should do a diagram of what you're intending, I am sure the gear change is between the wrong parts to be able to use the CVT hub as a jackshaft in the traditional sense in a Z shaped chain arrangement.
I can only see the CVT hub being of use as a wheel hub, or in between the pedals and the wheel hub (which has the drawbacks of too many chains).
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gary55
Well-Known Member
Good luck with that. It makes a good hub but it would require freezing the free wheel to be a jack shaft. not to mention it's huge.
Wags
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Frankenstein, I've noticed that there's a few different versions of the nuvinci rear hub. Personally I'm tired of keeping my derailleur tuned to my jackshaft and I'm seriously thinking of making the switch to the nuvinci hub. I've also noticed that there are other options like the Nexus and the auto Matrix. I have done many performance enhancing modifications and I am well above stock horsepower so I'm looking for something with a little backbone. If money isn't an issue only longevity, which internal shifting rear hub would you choose? I asked you because it sounds like you're already running an internal shifting hub. I have 29 inch wheels with the sick bike shift kit. I'm on my third quality derailleur (shimano shadow xt) so I could have bought pretty much any one of the internal geared hubs by now. I know nothing lasts forever so being able to get replacement parts for whichever Hub I choose will be an important also. I look forward to your response as I am ready to pull the trigger on a new hub. I feel I should add that right now I am using a megarange Shimano mega range hyperglide 11-36 .
Frankenstein
Deceased - Frankenstein 1991 - 2018
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With a 27.5 fat tire I used the nuvinci, it survived my beating even with considerable tow behind. I know the nuvinci only has a few parts that can be replaced, and for the most part it will be the sprocket that needs to be replaced one day when you wear it out.
I have, to my knowledge, the most recent edition of the 360 (2015) and haven't had any problems. For 200 dollars I can't say I'm unhappy even the slightest, especially because I don't have fixed positions to pick from. Just open the freewheel section and add extra grease.
Wags
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Is the 360 you use have the infinite drive roughly between 10-36? Im trying to figure out the real difference between the n360 and the N 380 besides the obvious price difference. I read something about the n380 being ideal for e-bikes so I'm thinking maybe it could be a little beefier. Not sure though.
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Frankenstein
Deceased - Frankenstein 1991 - 2018
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40s probably good enough for a motorized bike anyway, I've pulled off 45 and I'm scaling back speed for some better acceleration and of course I'll have lower speeds. I'm actively working on getting it registered and drawn a moped so I can get a plate issued... Having too great a top speed can hurt some boundaries a moped is technically not supposed to cross for the requirements. Nothing wrong with better torque anyway.
That auto shifter is pretty dandy on the 212s and the gearing seems rather appropriate on what I've seen here but this is the city so the traffic has a different usual set speed, 40 is usually too fast for most of the roads here only the main larger roads get 35mph limits, and 45 is the highest on the few several-mile long multi lane roads that cross over in a few places.. If you have a bigger country setting then you may want to just change up gearing and give yourself better top speeds if the lowest gear can handle hills easily (and come on, it's a 212 in a bicycle, don't tell me it seriously can't take a hill..)
OK the 360 is a value of percentage in change added in both directions, a 21 tooth gear on the hub will be converted into internal leverage that makes the hub act like it has a larger or smaller gear depending on the shifter setting. 21teeth geared 180% "down" (actually multiplying leverage here but results in lower gears with more leverage by making the sprocket "larger") will have an equivalent of a 37.8 toothed gear in the lowest gear position on shifter, and in the highest position it will be equal to slightly much more than 11 and a half teeth.
The 380 is a 10% additional change in that gear change at each end, a 21 would cover an infinite gearset between what is practically just an 11 tooth (11.05 teeth) and practically a 40 (39.99 tooths.)
380 is the next generation of the product, the 360 had an initial issue where they leaked fluid but in the slight rewrite of the original that stopped being an issue, I have the second version which is nearly identical but never leaked. I doubt they will relive that issue and have it 100% right on the next edition of of the hub. They have the very durable engineering in the 360, no doubt the 380 is getting the same treatment, and remember advertising heavily on the e bike community means they probably consider how much actual power gets put out from those, remember electric motors don't ease in to their torque like a gas motor, they simply slam the drivetrain with nearly all their full power if told to (think how the electric teslas can accelerate to 60mph faster than a formula 1 racer can, that's raw electric engine torque.) That keeping in mind they probably designed the newer drivetrain to take some pretty hard stuff compared to the 360.
The 360 definitely takes a fine tuned 2 stroke's roar with ease, so the 380 is going to do the same, the price tag probably reflects the quality, these guys don't want to sell units just to put a customer through installing these in a wheel in a serious form of transportation just so they can make customers go through the bigger hassle of disassembly by them or a bike shop to have the item replaced or just returned. An experience like that could easily put a customer off (and a bike shop selling your components) from wanting to buy your products again.
Logically if it were me I would buy a 380 feeling pretty comfortable that I was going to be installing a part that I would not have to remove, fix, or adjust any time after I installed it just like what happened with my 360. If I had the money to put towards it an upgraded version would definitely be my first pick. At $200 for the 360 (what I paid then, but may be even cheaper now) you can still get away with a rock solid geartrain that covers everything a bicycle would need to cover gear wise and under gas power is still accepting of 45mph.
I noticed that as they stated in their website you can shift while you pedaling, that's true if you're pedaling, under gas power the amount of power transfer going on inside the hub is great enough that I can't change it except for idle to just above idle, after that it becomes very difficult to wrench it between gears. I snapped a shifter cable one time because of it, it broke right at the little lock knurl on the end that attaches the cable to the rotating adjuster on the hub. I was lucky it was there, I moved the knurl up onto the end of the too short cable and slipped it back into the adjuster with the cable shield out of the barrel and laying on top of it, righting the barrels on the shifter and kept it out of the very highest gear on the ride home.
The hub naturally wants to downshift, I loosened the friction screw that makes it harder or easier to turn the twist shifter, so if I took my hand off under gas the hub would slowly shift downward to its lowest gearing. If the cable snaps in a way that you can't have both for the trip then you can attach the remaining full size cable to the part that pulls the shifter up to the higher gears, so giving it gas will get you moving, letting off will let you roll the shifter into a higher gear and holding it in place will keep it there, simply letting the shifter go under power or allowing it slack until it gears down will let you use the bike in a semi paralyzed state but still retaining access to all your gears.
So at most, keep a spare shifter cable on board if you have a heavy hand lol...
That auto shifter is pretty dandy on the 212s and the gearing seems rather appropriate on what I've seen here but this is the city so the traffic has a different usual set speed, 40 is usually too fast for most of the roads here only the main larger roads get 35mph limits, and 45 is the highest on the few several-mile long multi lane roads that cross over in a few places.. If you have a bigger country setting then you may want to just change up gearing and give yourself better top speeds if the lowest gear can handle hills easily (and come on, it's a 212 in a bicycle, don't tell me it seriously can't take a hill..)
OK the 360 is a value of percentage in change added in both directions, a 21 tooth gear on the hub will be converted into internal leverage that makes the hub act like it has a larger or smaller gear depending on the shifter setting. 21teeth geared 180% "down" (actually multiplying leverage here but results in lower gears with more leverage by making the sprocket "larger") will have an equivalent of a 37.8 toothed gear in the lowest gear position on shifter, and in the highest position it will be equal to slightly much more than 11 and a half teeth.
The 380 is a 10% additional change in that gear change at each end, a 21 would cover an infinite gearset between what is practically just an 11 tooth (11.05 teeth) and practically a 40 (39.99 tooths.)
380 is the next generation of the product, the 360 had an initial issue where they leaked fluid but in the slight rewrite of the original that stopped being an issue, I have the second version which is nearly identical but never leaked. I doubt they will relive that issue and have it 100% right on the next edition of of the hub. They have the very durable engineering in the 360, no doubt the 380 is getting the same treatment, and remember advertising heavily on the e bike community means they probably consider how much actual power gets put out from those, remember electric motors don't ease in to their torque like a gas motor, they simply slam the drivetrain with nearly all their full power if told to (think how the electric teslas can accelerate to 60mph faster than a formula 1 racer can, that's raw electric engine torque.) That keeping in mind they probably designed the newer drivetrain to take some pretty hard stuff compared to the 360.
The 360 definitely takes a fine tuned 2 stroke's roar with ease, so the 380 is going to do the same, the price tag probably reflects the quality, these guys don't want to sell units just to put a customer through installing these in a wheel in a serious form of transportation just so they can make customers go through the bigger hassle of disassembly by them or a bike shop to have the item replaced or just returned. An experience like that could easily put a customer off (and a bike shop selling your components) from wanting to buy your products again.
Logically if it were me I would buy a 380 feeling pretty comfortable that I was going to be installing a part that I would not have to remove, fix, or adjust any time after I installed it just like what happened with my 360. If I had the money to put towards it an upgraded version would definitely be my first pick. At $200 for the 360 (what I paid then, but may be even cheaper now) you can still get away with a rock solid geartrain that covers everything a bicycle would need to cover gear wise and under gas power is still accepting of 45mph.
I noticed that as they stated in their website you can shift while you pedaling, that's true if you're pedaling, under gas power the amount of power transfer going on inside the hub is great enough that I can't change it except for idle to just above idle, after that it becomes very difficult to wrench it between gears. I snapped a shifter cable one time because of it, it broke right at the little lock knurl on the end that attaches the cable to the rotating adjuster on the hub. I was lucky it was there, I moved the knurl up onto the end of the too short cable and slipped it back into the adjuster with the cable shield out of the barrel and laying on top of it, righting the barrels on the shifter and kept it out of the very highest gear on the ride home.
The hub naturally wants to downshift, I loosened the friction screw that makes it harder or easier to turn the twist shifter, so if I took my hand off under gas the hub would slowly shift downward to its lowest gearing. If the cable snaps in a way that you can't have both for the trip then you can attach the remaining full size cable to the part that pulls the shifter up to the higher gears, so giving it gas will get you moving, letting off will let you roll the shifter into a higher gear and holding it in place will keep it there, simply letting the shifter go under power or allowing it slack until it gears down will let you use the bike in a semi paralyzed state but still retaining access to all your gears.
So at most, keep a spare shifter cable on board if you have a heavy hand lol...
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butre
Well-Known Member
my reasoning for having a bike that'll do 50 isn't so much for the ability to do 50, but to do 35 without screaming it's ass off and still have some wiggle room to get me out of trouble
