What Cheap Cruiser Bike for Grubee Stage III Rear Mount?

Discussion in 'Rack Mounted Engines' started by highcap56, Jul 12, 2010.

  1. highcap56

    highcap56 New Member

    Had to de-install my kit from the mountain bike I wanted it on due to sprocket/frame clearance problems.

    Want a single speed cruiser with caliper brakes.

    Any suggestions of the best Walmart or Target bike for that rear mounted kit?

    Thanks! I can order and wait too.. want to spend around $150 tops.

  2. Wheres my dog

    Wheres my dog New Member

    Just got back from the big W store and they reloaded the bicycle endcap with the upgraded Cranbrookes they still have for $75!

    YES, I said $75 for the bike, the upgraded seat, and handlebar bag already installed!

    Take the leftover money and install v brakes..... and have money left over to boot!
  3. highcap56

    highcap56 New Member

    Sounds like a plan. I've seen several cruisers I like as well but they all had coaster brake only so I would have had to upgrade them too.

    Thanks for the tip!
  4. highcap56

    highcap56 New Member

    I made the 12 mile drive to the closest gangland W here in the LA area.

    They had one left and put it back for me.

    No tool bag and not sure about the seat. Just normal cruiser saddle. It is coming off anyway in favor of my arse-comfy gel seat.

    Don't like the handlebars either, but for $75 .. hey.. its OK!

    Start the build tomorrow. Should go fast after I get the sprocket bolted on and trued.

    Thanks for the suggestion. :idea:

    By the way - if anyone can recommend a vendor without breaking the rules, I need some inexpensive v brakes for the bike.
  5. highcap56

    highcap56 New Member

    Spent about 2 hours last night beating up and bloodying my knuckles installing the sprocket. Have to true it up today. Rear wheel is not the truest I have seen and has a little side to side wobble.

    Of course, nothing is possible without a mod or two, and I have already determined that I have to re-engineer the coaster brake bracket because it is too deeply inset once the sprocket is on to seat properly.

    Already mounted the throttle, grips, etc... just need to bolt the motor on and hopefully will be riding CAREFULLY tomorrow.

    This bike has no brackets for v-brakes. Going to get a side pull set to help the coaster brakes until can get some v-brake brackets welded on.

    Will post pics when complete.

    Do most of you leave the rear fender on or off? Don't know if it will cause a clearance problem or not yes.
  6. highcap56

    highcap56 New Member

    Delayed - just found that the motor mount for the Gru** St* 3 Rear Mount is WARPED.

    Some quality Chinese manufacturing. Never going to work if it is not straight.

    If you are in LA and know someone that can straighten it, hit me up.

    Dead in the water until that gets straightened.

    Attached Files:

  7. highcap56

    highcap56 New Member

    Got the mount straightened, but even with that it still does not line up even with the sprocket, if you move it until it does, the chain hits the tire.

    I've got nearly 15 hours in screwing around with this junk rear mount. No wonder they don't give good instructions.

    Seems SO much easier with a front mount and I guess few of you really have a clue about this particular rear mount. Seemed like the best way to go, but now I regret every buying it.

    Hoping SOMEONE can tell me where to get a front mount for the frame for this Grubee Stage III. All I see is kits - don't want a kit, just the mounting plate that attaches to the frame tubes.

    Also - guessing I can simply take the gear box off and move it to a horizontal position instead of the vertical position for the rear mount. That looks easy enough.

    Would really like to be RIDING, not breaking my hands trying to make a mount work that looks like it never will, regardless of donor bike. This was the second try.
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2010
  8. ocscully

    ocscully Member

    Private Message Sent

  9. occchopperfl

    occchopperfl Member

    Grrr... sounds like the same situation i'm in. I took 2 weeks off in frustration trying to get my grubee 4g t 4 stroke, drive, rack mount. I will get back on the horse 1st things tomorrow morning.
    a. my rear engine drive sprocket needs to be "trued"
    b. engine only stays on with the choke on
    I hope its worth the aggravation, and finally works well for both of us.
    Good Luck! :)
  10. highcap56

    highcap56 New Member

    I hear ya! Not much fun if the drive is always jumping off the track.

    I'm giving this one more shot, then moving to mount it in the fame.

    Lots of hours invested.

    Good luck with yours!
  11. occchopperfl

    occchopperfl Member


    (btw what i meant by truing the sprocket was ---> making the sprocket concentric with the wheel)

    Vendor Terry Blow gave me a detailed email a few weeks back on how to fix this. After a "2 week colling off period", I will follow his lead this morning.
    Thanks again Terry!

    There is a lot of help here in the forum(s), so I have to believe we WILL get it done.
    Thanks very much to all MBers who have helped me!

    Maybe for me if this doesnt work out, i'm may go to a Friction Drive Mount/System, either Staton or Bikemotorparts.

    In hindsight, I should have done additional research, "bit the bullet", and bought the best system/ motor to begin with.

    Someones saying on the forum a fellow MBer has and it goes something like this:
    "Good is never cheap, and cheap is never good."

    Soooooo True. If I was to convert all the man hours spent on this into money, its costing me waaay to much.

    Early start on my bike... i'm crossing my fingers.

    Good luck again 2 U. :)
  12. highcap56

    highcap56 New Member

    I returned the Cranbrook Cruiser to Wally World today.

    After a few days it was clear that this bike costs $75 for a reason, and that reason is very cheap and light construction.

    I'm 5'9 205 and when I would pedal the bike the rear hub would literally torque sideways, twisting the frame as it did. If I stood up to pedal, no matter how tight the bars were, they would go popping down.

    On top of that, I felt huge on that bike and I am not a really large guy. I think it was a wreck waiting to happen.

    Back to the drawing board. At least I have lots of experience with bolting these kits on... now just need to find a bike I can bolt one on that works. I need to stop thinking cheap, but start looking for something used.