what do whizzers cost new?

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by astring, Apr 25, 2008.

  1. astring

    astring Member

    they seem to have an unusual distribution network (the dealer closest to me is a gun shop!!). Any details on how to buy one, do you negotiate like when buying a car?

  2. MoonKS

    MoonKS Member

    At the local Whizzer dealer here in Wichita, KS they are selling them new for $1595. Yes, you can negotiate just like when buying a car. I have a feeling if more people knew about them they would be selling faster - these increasing gas prices make the Whizzer a win/win - economical AND fun!

    I negotiated a bit to get the price down. And I know what you mean about dealers in unusual places. I got mine at a hardcore Harley shop - not a Harley dealer - but a shop that has been around forever that works on Harleys and does performance mods and sells old restored ones. Funny to walk in there (super nice owner) and see all of these hardcore bikers while I asked to take the Whizzer for a test spin. The owner had a black 24" with chrome fenders (the one I bought) and a red 26" there - But he said he had other colors located at different pawn shops around town.
  3. bluegoatwoods

    bluegoatwoods Well-Known Member

    $1595.00 ?

    That's pretty darn reasonable. I was afraid it would be more like

  4. astring

    astring Member

    What is the difference between 2007 and 2008 models? Should the 2007's go for a couple of hundred less since it is not the current year model (like cars)?
  5. MoonKS

    MoonKS Member

    Mine is 2007 model and they were charging full price - but that was ok with me. I don't think you get as much wiggle room with cutting prices on last year's models with a Whizzer as you would with a car.
  6. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Retail price on the 2008 NE5 automatic clutch version is $1595.00 plus shipping from the factory to the dealer [$100.00 to $125.00 average]. The new Ambassador is $1995.00 plus shipping. Sadly the markup isn't what everyone thinks [some think the dealer buys them for half of the retail, I WISH]. Most dealers will give a discount, but are not allowed to advertize the lower prices. I offer special discounts on both bikes & parts to members of this site [contact me through PM for details]. The Ambassador is offered "loaded" with both mirrors, tachometer, chrome controls, & turn signals, whereas the NE5 model only has the left mirror. The NE5 has pedals, the Ambassador does not.
    Once in a while Whizzer USA offers dealers a small discount if purchased in quanity [usually offers free shipping] and I always adjust the retail prices to reflect the discount.

    Have fun,
    Whizzer OuterBanks
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2008
  7. astring

    astring Member

    I went to look at some Ne5's today. they wanted $1500 out the door (including tax). One was a 2005 and the other 3 were 2006 models. they were dusty and all of them had less than a mile on the odometer. These look like older models that have been sitting there a long time but not used bikes. Does that sound like a good deal?

    Btw I rode one around the parking lot (lots of fun)
  8. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    There is very little difference between 2005,2006, and early 2007, however the later 2007 & all 2008 had a few minor upgrades. I don't know the exact time , but somewhere the rear brake was changed to a expanding shoe, whereas the earlier models had a band brake. The models with the band brake can be converted to the drum brake easily. The fact that Whizzer upgrades their product is one of the main reasons I like doing business with them, they just keep trying to make it better. Having said all that, All Whizzer NE models are great, and buying a new one out the door for $1500.00 is a good price, remember the dealer isn't going to get rich in the process. I don't know the tax breakdown, but I know the dealer paid a fair amount to have them shipped to him, so that price seems really good to me.
    Most of the dealers, like myself, don't make a living by being a Whizzer dealer, but just enjoy having our own Whizzers, and sharing the fun with others. Back in the 40's, 50's, & 60's Whizzer dealers were also a variety, including bicycle shops, hardware stores, car dealers, auto repair shops, some Western Auto stores, catalog stores, Vacumm cleaner stores [I worked for Dayton Vacumm Sales & Service , a Whizzer dealer! in the early 60's], etc, etc. However it is a good system, because you can get parts & service at many different locations [your choice], and as time moves forward there will be even more dealers.
    Hope this answers your questions,
  9. astring

    astring Member

    This was at a gun shop! The guy was cool about letting me try one. I just may pick one up!
  10. Be one with the machine

    astring, fulfill your destiny! The moral statement is "Ride one and you'll buy one"

    and now, grasshopper, when you can snatch the pebble out of my hand..........

  11. BoltsMissing

    BoltsMissing Active Member

    Where can you buy Whizzers direct from the manufacturer, who makes them ?
    I'm in Australia, so if I was to consider buying a brand new Whizzer to be imported here, what's the go ?
  12. Who is Whizzer?

    Hi well Whizzerusa (which is Whizzer altogether), is located in Texas USA. The product is entirely proprietary, and the Taiwan manufacturing facility is not at liberty to sell direct, as it is a fully owned subsiderary.

    If I were you in Austrailia, I'd call Dave at Whizzerusa 1 877 944-9937, or emial them from the contact us button on http://www.whizzerusa.com and find out directly if they know how to help you.

  13. BoltsMissing

    BoltsMissing Active Member


    Thanks,precisely the directions I'm looking for.
    All the Best

  14. Krazy_Calvin

    Krazy_Calvin New Member

    I just put a down payment on a green whizzer the other day. The place I went to here in Kansas, Dan's Cycles in Hesston, ordered it special for me. I also ordered turn signals, a luggage rack and thornproof tubes. I'm waiting for it to come in and I'll know how much its going to be for the 2008 model. They told me they would sell me a 2007 26" model for 1400 with no accessories but they had one in stock with turn signals and luggage rack for 1600. Like Moon was saying, there are other places around town selling them for 1600 with no accessories. I actually found the one like 30 minutes out of town before I found out from a friend that he saw one at a pawn shop. I'm a geek though and I want to be the single owner and ride the first mile myself. The one at the pawn shop had 19 miles on it. Anyway, I'm studying up on here everyday and plotting what I'm going to do to it after I break the engine in a little. Do you guys think it would be alright to put the new spark plug in at first? Anyway... I'm sure I'll have quite a few more questions in a week or so.
  15. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Krazy, Me too! I want to own it first, not second. I would use the original spark plug during the break-in process. There are several different ways suggested about break-in, and I use the "old" method, with great results. I tried the "harsh" method, and had to replace the piston, wrist pin, rings, and hone the cylinder to remove the deep grooves caused when the piston "gaulded" on the skirt.
    Be sure to keep a close eye on the oil during break-in because the motor will have exessive "blow-by" untill the rings & cylinder mate [seal]. It is very important to change the oil at the first 50 miles, again at 100 miles, 200 miles, and at 400 miles [1 quart of oil total]. Do not use anything but straight 40 weight [no synt. or multi grades].
    Have fun,
  16. MoonKS

    MoonKS Member

    Mine had 16 miles on it when I got it - but such is life I suppose. I am going the old fashioned way with break-in as well. When I changed the oil the first time it was black as night -

    I am curious, Quenton...what is the "harsh" method? Maybe I am doing it wrong....


  17. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi MoonKS,
    There are 2 basic ideas concerning break-in. The latest offering suggests "harsh" treatment, such as WOT going up a hill , all in the first 20 miles. The latest concept suggests the rings will seat much quicker, and seal the cylinder & rings quicker. In the past I have been forced to use the "harsh" method on a re-built motor during my racing career [complete over haul in my Motel room] because I trashed a motor and didn't have time to break-in prior to the race. Every time I did it that way I always had to re-do the motor, and usually replaced a lot of parts in the process.
    The only time [in my opinion] the severe brake in proceedure will work is if the motor has excessive clearance between the piston & cylinder. Just to make sure I wasn't closed minded to a new concept, I recently broke-in a new Whizzer cylinder using the "harsh" method, but after I removed the cylinder to take a look I found the piston "gaulded" on the front bottom of the skirt, and the area just below the oil ring on the back side of the piston. The wrist pin was a deep blue [over heated], and the rings were "scraped" badly. It was an expensive lesson , good thing I am a dealer and was able to replace the parts at dealer cost. Another area I found interesting was the comments about the rings seating, but in fact it is the cylinder that makes the biggest adjustment during break-in. The cylinder is "cross' honed, and it is the raised areas of the cylinder that wears quickly, not the rings.
    I always break-in my motors, easy and once in a while [after 50 miles] I will open the throttle completely for approx 1 minuite, then drop back to allow the motor to cool down. I have found it very important to vary the speeds during break-in as opposed to holding a constant speed.
    While it is true the "harsh" method will reduce the blow-by sooner, it will also allow blow-by to return in a major way later in the motors life. I have several motors with over 6000 miles each and these motors [after normal break-in], and these same motors hold several speed records above 68 MPH on the Dyno.
    You be the judge!, but I will continue to use the "old" method, because "why fix it if it ain't broke".
    Have fun,
  18. peter nap

    peter nap Member

    I have to agree with Quenton on break in. I've been breaking in small motors all my life and the gentle method has always worked. Dave at Whizzer suggested the down and dirty 15 mile method. I have a healthy respect for His knowledge of Whizzers but as already said, If it ain't broke......
  19. MoonKS

    MoonKS Member

    What is the 15 mile method if I may ask?
  20. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

    That is the harsh method Quenton was talking about.