what do whizzers cost new?

[BoltsMissing]

Where can you buy Whizzers direct from the manufacturer, who makes them ?
I'm in Australia, so if I was to consider buying a brand new Whizzer to be imported here, what's the go ?

 

[MotorbikeMike]

Who is Whizzer?

Hi well Whizzerusa (which is Whizzer altogether), is located in Texas USA. The product is entirely proprietary, and the Taiwan manufacturing facility is not at liberty to sell direct, as it is a fully owned subsiderary.

If I were you in Austrailia, I'd call Dave at Whizzerusa 1 877 944-9937, or emial them from the contact us button on http://www.whizzerusa.com and find out directly if they know how to help you.

Mike

 

[BoltsMissing]

MotorbikeMike

Thanks,precisely the directions I'm looking for.

call Dave at Whizzerusa 1 877 944-9937, or emial them from the contact us button on http://www.whizzerusa.com and

All the Best

BoltsM.

 

[Krazy_Calvin]

I just put a down payment on a green whizzer the other day. The place I went to here in Kansas, Dan's Cycles in Hesston, ordered it special for me. I also ordered turn signals, a luggage rack and thornproof tubes. I'm waiting for it to come in and I'll know how much its going to be for the 2008 model. They told me they would sell me a 2007 26" model for 1400 with no accessories but they had one in stock with turn signals and luggage rack for 1600. Like Moon was saying, there are other places around town selling them for 1600 with no accessories. I actually found the one like 30 minutes out of town before I found out from a friend that he saw one at a pawn shop. I'm a geek though and I want to be the single owner and ride the first mile myself. The one at the pawn shop had 19 miles on it. Anyway, I'm studying up on here everyday and plotting what I'm going to do to it after I break the engine in a little. Do you guys think it would be alright to put the new spark plug in at first? Anyway... I'm sure I'll have quite a few more questions in a week or so.

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Krazy, Me too! I want to own it first, not second. I would use the original spark plug during the break-in process. There are several different ways suggested about break-in, and I use the "old" method, with great results. I tried the "harsh" method, and had to replace the piston, wrist pin, rings, and hone the cylinder to remove the deep grooves caused when the piston "gaulded" on the skirt.
Be sure to keep a close eye on the oil during break-in because the motor will have exessive "blow-by" untill the rings & cylinder mate [seal]. It is very important to change the oil at the first 50 miles, again at 100 miles, 200 miles, and at 400 miles [1 quart of oil total]. Do not use anything but straight 40 weight [no synt. or multi grades].
Have fun,
Quenton

 

[MoonKS]

Mine had 16 miles on it when I got it - but such is life I suppose. I am going the old fashioned way with break-in as well. When I changed the oil the first time it was black as night -

I am curious, Quenton...what is the "harsh" method? Maybe I am doing it wrong....

Regards,

Matthew

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi MoonKS,
There are 2 basic ideas concerning break-in. The latest offering suggests "harsh" treatment, such as WOT going up a hill , all in the first 20 miles. The latest concept suggests the rings will seat much quicker, and seal the cylinder & rings quicker. In the past I have been forced to use the "harsh" method on a re-built motor during my racing career [complete over haul in my Motel room] because I trashed a motor and didn't have time to break-in prior to the race. Every time I did it that way I always had to re-do the motor, and usually replaced a lot of parts in the process.
The only time [in my opinion] the severe brake in proceedure will work is if the motor has excessive clearance between the piston & cylinder. Just to make sure I wasn't closed minded to a new concept, I recently broke-in a new Whizzer cylinder using the "harsh" method, but after I removed the cylinder to take a look I found the piston "gaulded" on the front bottom of the skirt, and the area just below the oil ring on the back side of the piston. The wrist pin was a deep blue [over heated], and the rings were "scraped" badly. It was an expensive lesson , good thing I am a dealer and was able to replace the parts at dealer cost. Another area I found interesting was the comments about the rings seating, but in fact it is the cylinder that makes the biggest adjustment during break-in. The cylinder is "cross' honed, and it is the raised areas of the cylinder that wears quickly, not the rings.
I always break-in my motors, easy and once in a while [after 50 miles] I will open the throttle completely for approx 1 minuite, then drop back to allow the motor to cool down. I have found it very important to vary the speeds during break-in as opposed to holding a constant speed.
While it is true the "harsh" method will reduce the blow-by sooner, it will also allow blow-by to return in a major way later in the motors life. I have several motors with over 6000 miles each and these motors [after normal break-in], and these same motors hold several speed records above 68 MPH on the Dyno.
You be the judge!, but I will continue to use the "old" method, because "why fix it if it ain't broke".
Have fun,
Quenton

 

[peter nap]

I have to agree with Quenton on break in. I've been breaking in small motors all my life and the gentle method has always worked. Dave at Whizzer suggested the down and dirty 15 mile method. I have a healthy respect for His knowledge of Whizzers but as already said, If it ain't broke......

 

[MoonKS]

What is the 15 mile method if I may ask?

 

[RdKryton]

What is the 15 mile method if I may ask?

That is the harsh method Quenton was talking about.


Jim