What EVERY NOOB needs to read.

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May 21, 2013
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#11
Aw, shucks it figures I'd find this only after nearly completing my first install. Do I really have to take it off the bike again? It took like 4 tries to get it on there. Then I have to take it apart and sand some engine parts? Holy cow. Say it ain't so.

Here's the bike now:
BikeEngine1.jpg



As much as I dislike the idea, it came with two rusty, uh, what look like small lug nuts here:


BikeEngine2.jpg


So, I'm thinking better safe than sorry and I should just do as suggested and take it all apart and get new bolts and nuts and gaskets and everything. But, is this really necessary now? Maybe I could at least break it in before something blows and I can take it all apart then?

Thanks
 


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#12
Okay, sorry for being a noob. I'm sure you guys can imagine how finding out I had to overhaul a brand new engine was a little upsetting. But, actually the whole time I've been putting it on the bike in the back of my head I've been wondering if this engine would ever work, judging by the level of craftsmanship. Glad my wife got it for about half price!

So, I'm already at it. Thanks for the great post! I wish I'd found it sooner.

BikeEngine3.jpg
 
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#13
I have some questions about the some of the tips if you don't mind.

Here's a pic of what I'm asking about.
BikeEngine-gaskets.jpg

1. By replace all the studs does that include the studs for the muffler and carb and both mounting points?

2. Does that brass colored bolt in the picture count as something that should be replaced? There are lots of those.

3. Is there a trick to getting the new studs back in and tight without scratching them or messing up the threads? I assume it doesn't matter how they come out. Vice grips?

4. I found two gasket like things in here, a metal one and one out of gasket material. Which one is the "head gasket" and what is the other thing called?

Thanks!
 

ChiefGeek

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#14
Noob here too, but I can tell you the regular gasket goes on first, against the bottom assembly, then you slide the cylinder head over the piston, then the metal gasket goes on, and finally the top of the head. Hope this helps. :cool:
 
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#15
It's nice to get a reply so soon. But, I took note of which went where when I took it apart. Any idea which is technically the head gasket? The gasket? Or the metal thing? Both?


Update: Okay, I'm pretty sure they mean the metal one when referring to the "head gasket".

My next question would then be, "Can I get some quality gasket material and replace both of these with it? Or, does this top one have to stay metal?
 
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#16
Here's another question for the OP. Is it necessary to break down the engine to the point of taking the two halves apart to replace all the gaskets? Or, is it enough to replace all the gaskets except that main one in the center?
 
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#18
Without knowledge & experience, splitting the cases is a good way to knock the crank out of true.

Thanks. I really didn't want to have to "split the case" and I haven't done this since I was about 16, about 16 years ago and I had my Dad to help back then.

So, if I understand the OP, as for replacement parts, I just need to replace all the gaskets (aside from splitting the case and that gasket), all the nuts, studs and cover plate bolts with quality hardware? oh and the spark plug.

I think I understand this part now unless anyone has anything to add. Thanks again.
 
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#19
Holy Bolts Batman, that was hard. A PITA if I ever had one. Even the guy at Fastenall was confused. Though they're usually confused at stores here. Still, nobody had anything like these bolts in grade 5 or above.

What the heck to do? I know. It's all confusing like there's some mini industry supplying these freaky nuts and bolts. And, what if one breaks? Order online again? Better order a dozen just to be sure huh?

I got a tap set for normal US threads for like $10 a few weeks back for my Hotsabi project and so I just freaking made real threads in the aluminum to hold real bolts. Problem solved and future solved too.

It turns out that 8mm is just about the same as 5/16, only their threadings are all off. But, all you have to do is tap a 5/16 18 thread into the 8mm holes and then tap a 1/4 20 into the 6mm holes. You can get bolts at the hardware store (though you may not find threaded rods for studs and have to hacksaw off some heads to make studs) and you'll always be able to get new parts at the local store.

Oh and of course red thread lock for the studs. Plus, don't forget you can make them whatever length you want.
 
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