What kind of gas wont hurt my 70cc engine and works best?

What type of gas do you mix your oil with?


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mickey

I was under the impression that the tetra-ethyl lead was also supposed to lubricate the exhaust valves in some way.
It did (in addition to the other properties mentioned by Egor), which is why when building a performance engine, say, 15 years ago after the lead was gone from our gasoline one needed to have a machine shop install hardened exhaust seats into the cylinder heads. Nowadays, all good aftermarket performance cylinder heads have the hardened seats.
 
That was a very interesting read but now I don't know what to go with but here is my question and it may sound stupid but I will ask anyways. Is this Caster oil I keep hearing about the same stuff you could buy at a drugstore?
 
That was a very interesting read but now I don't know what to go with but here is my question and it may sound stupid but I will ask anyways. Is this Caster oil I keep hearing about the same stuff you could buy at a drugstore?

No, the castor oil at the drug store is usually sweetened with sugar and has other additives.

Here are some links. You can buy cheaper if you go through a local hobby shop and buy it by the gallon. On new engines I run 100% castor oil (5oz per gallon) for first gallon. From then on I run 1oz of castor blended with 4 oz of synthetic 2 stroke oil for each gallon. Castor is superior to any synthetic in every area except ash/carbon buildup which is why I switch to a 20% blend later one.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXS627&P=ML

http://www.morganfuel.com/homebrew.htm

http://members.aol.com/FHSoil/FHSbrochure.html


Make sure you buy AA castor. BTW, the light varnish that castor forms on engine parts acts like a lubricant at high temperatures so you are covered temporarily if you forget to add enough oil at a fillup.

Model airplane/nitro car operators/owners have proven that a castor blended oil is superior in bushing engines that have high loads. SYnthetic two stroke oils don't fair well in bushing engines or in high temperatures.

I can overheat a happy time engine cherry red and it will never seize on castor fuel. Ask me how I know becuase I've done it climbing Colorado mountain trails at full throttle the entire time in summer temperatures.
 
Thanks, you have given me all the answers I needed. That sounds like just what our engines need. I made the mistake of using synthetic Amsoil for "injection" when I first broke my motor in. Everything seemed fine but after a few months I noticed that at times, I had what I thought was a lean mixture as I heard what I thought may have been piston slap.
It was strange because it would come and go, even at idle.
I then bought the amsoil "intercepter" for two strokes and the problem went away, also I now tend to ad an extra oz. or so to a gallon.
This caster oil thing sounds like it should be my first priority and I will make sure to follow your mixture. Thanks again! I can't help but wonder why this is not "pushed" a little more on this site.
 
Not just Oil, Pennzoil

ok,

my 1.5 Cents (AU)

I have bought Pennzoil,
2 Stroke Mower Oil from Super Cheap Auto, in OZ.

Here's a link to Pennzoils site.

http://www.pennzoil.com.au/products/ancillary/pz_products_retail_2s.asp
Not just Oil, Pennzoil

I'll do some research to see if I can find the exact product on the web,
as its not listed on this site.

I'm up for a new Oil for my next mix, and was wondering if I should stick
with this brand or go for the Valvoline equivalent ?
IE
2 stroke Valvoline, for those in the know.:cool:

CYA

WS.
 
Almost every motorcycle bike that services/sells 2 stroke cycles carries at least one castor based 2 stroke oil. Its either Maxima 927 or Klotz supertechniplate. Cost isn't a big issue and well worth it if you don't have roller bearing wrist pin bearing.

Cut and paste from an article published by a lubrication engineer:


You really have to go back to the basics of lubrication to get a better handle on what happens in a 2 stroke engine. For any fluid to act as a lubricant, it must first be "polar" enough to wet the moving surfaces. Next, it must have a high resistance to surface boiling and vaporization at the temperatures encountered. Ideally the fluid should have "oiliness", which is difficult to measure but generally requires a rather large molecular structure. Even water can be a good lubricant under the right conditions.

Castor oil meets these rather simple requirements in an engine, with only one really severe drawback in that it is thermally unstable. This unusual instability is the thing that lets castor oil lubricate at temperatures well beyond those at which most synthetics will work. Castor oil is roughly 87% triglyceride of ricinoleic acid, [ (CH3(CH2)5CH(OH)CH2CH=CH(CH2)7COO)3(OC)3H5 ], which is unique because there is a double bond in the 9th position and a hydroxyl in the 11th position.

As the temperature goes up, it loses one molecule of water and becomes a "drying" oil. Another look at the molecule. Castor oil has excellent storage stability at room temperatures, but it polymerizes rapidly as the temperature goes up. As it polymerizes, it forms ever-heavier "oils" that are rich in esters. These esters do not even begin to decompose until the temperature hits about 650 degrees F (343 deg C). Castor oil forms huge molecular structures at these elevated temperatures - in other words, as the temperature goes up, the castor oil exposed to these temperatures responds by becoming an even better lubricant!

Unfortunately, the end byproduct of this process is what we refer to as "varnish." So, you can't have everything, but you can come close by running a mixture of castor oil with polyalkylene glycol like Union Carbide's UCON, or their MA 731. This mixture has some synergistic properties, or better properties than either product had alone. blending castor with conventional oil or synthetic oil is best

Castor oil is not normally soluble in ordinary petroleum oils, but if you polymerize it for several hours at 300 degrees F (149 deg C), the polymerized oil becomes soluble. Hydrogenation achieves somewhat the same effect.

Castor oil has other unique properties. It is highly polar and has a great affinity for metal surfaces. It has a flash point of only 445 degrees F (229 deg C), but its fire point is about 840 degrees F (449 deg C)! This is very unusual behavior if you consider that polyalkylene glycols flash at about 350-400 degrees F (176-204 deg C)and have a fire point of only about 550 degrees F (288 deg C), or slightly higher. Nearly all of the common synthetics that we use burn in the combustion chamber if you get off too lean. burning off is bad if you didn't knowCastor oil does not, because it is busily forming more and more complex polymers as the temperature goes up. Most synthetics boil on the cylinder walls at temperatures slightly above their flash point. The same activity can take place in the wrist pin area, depending on engine design.

Synthetics also have another interesting feature - they would like to return to the materials from which they were made, usually things like ethylene oxide, complex alcohols, or other less suitable lubricants. This happens very rapidly when a critical temperature is reached. We call this phenomena "unzippering" for obvious reasons. So, you have a choice. Run the engine too lean and it gets too hot. The synthetic burns or simply vaporizes, but castor oil decomposes into a soft varnish and a series of ester groups that still have powerful lubricity. Good reason for a mix of the two lubricants!

In spite of all this, the synthetics are still excellent lubricants if you know their limitations and work within those limits. Used properly, engine life will be good with either product. Cooked on a lean run, castor oil will win every time. A mix of the two can give the best of both worlds. Most engines can get by with only a little castor oil in the oil mix, but certain engines with their higher cooling loads and heavier wrist pin pressures, thrive on more castor oil in the mix.

Like most things in this old life, lubricants are always a compromise of good and bad properties. Synthetics yield a clean engine, while castor oil yields a dirty engine, but at least now you know why! "

Bert Striegler

Bert was the Sr. Research Eng'r. (ret.) at Conoco Oil Co. He's a graduate in aeronautical eng'rg., I never understood how he wound up in the oil research business, but I guess it's because he's just very smart !
 
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gas... Oil

Each engine has its prefered diet. I can comment on the two I had, neither of which was a happy-time. The weed-eater seemed to think all gas was burnable, i.e. it did not care. The Kawasaki... Different story.
That thing liked some avgas when I wanted to run cross-country. Seems it ran subjectively cleaner at lower speeds (important when you're going up a long steep loose hill) when running about half avgas and the remainder what one got at the pump.
As for oil, I used 'decent' stuff back then: MC1+ for the weed-eater, and Torco t2 injector for the bike. This seemed to perform well, save for the thick billows of blue smoke upon startup. The MC1+ had very little smoke, even when cold.

A note about castor. It smells...

While I *like* that smell - 'the smell of victory' - not everyone might find it suitable as a replacement for cologne.

If and when I get another buzz-bomb motor, I will be dosing it regularly with castor oil. Even if it's only driving an alternator to keep my battery charged for Field Day - I'm still going to dose that thing with castor.
 
Yes, nothing better than the sweet smell of burning the bean. I don't have an issue with the smell since my exhaust is routed to the rear of my bike when I ride and not directly in my face.

If the happy time engine was made in America or Japan and better in quality and design, I wouldn't even have to worry about using castor and plain old Walmart cheap 2 stroke would have worked just fine as it has on my other numerous 2 stroke engines (golf cart, weedwhacker, generator, etc..etc..)

The fact is that the HT time engines aren't American made and we need every advantage we can get. With that said, I have thoroughly abused dozens of HT engines with no loss in power or reliability (defective chinese spark plugs don't count). I have had my exhaust glowing red, my head fins discolor from intense heat, and continued to bog my engine down going up steep mountains at full throttle for hours on end with no problem at all. I have never had an engine fail or decline in power output. The only engines I've had to re-ring and repair (wrist pin bearings) were customers of mine who ran non-castor oil at 50:1 ratios instead of 25:1.
 
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