Whats the cheapest engine kit actually worth buying?

[Gavin67]

Had a friend buy the cheapest that he could find, and had to replace the fuel line, and some other close to unusable parts right off the bat. If it was worth buying that engine kit with all those problems is questionable since he was able to get it under $100. Not to mention some little rust on the gas tank. What are the downsides of buying a cheap engine kit vs buying a brand like flying horse, GT, or Zeda. I know they make kits in the $150 range.

 

[Frankenstein]

Usually the employees arent getting beaten and the supervisors care more about quality control, otherwise it's the same (but with less mangled and bloody engine parts.) *edit: some of that's not rust!!

 

[crassius]

Had a friend buy the cheapest that he could find, and had to replace the fuel line, and some other close to unusable parts right off the bat.

I doubt that. More likely he just couldn't figure out how to put those parts together. Rust can sometimes be found in tanks of any kit, and no big deal. Most of the cheap kits are older style and exactly what we built several years ago with no unusual problems.

 

[Dave FZ1000]

Recently got a 49cc kit from ebay, under $90. So far everything looks great! Specifically the gas tank had nice paint, clean inside, no rust. Muffler looks good, no rust, welds look fine. Everything seems to be there. Just got the engine installed, and the rag joint so far. Rag joint went rather well, once I noticed someone said to line up the sprocket first to make sure the holes lined up between spokes! lol...

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

Cheap unbranded generic no-name engines have low grade studs. Low grade studs stretch and this causes stripped threads in the aluminium.
The cost of upgrading all the studs means there's little point in buying the cheap engine if higher quality engines are available where you live.

The Grubee GT5 has decent studs. I'm not sure which others have them too, maybe the Zeda engine.
I would hope that the higher quality engines have less play in the big end con rod bearings, and less mistakes made with the construction/alignment of the crank too, as these can't really be corrected by the average person.

I got a cheap generic engine. Cheapest on eBay. There's little choice where I live. I enjoyed doing the work the first time, and I got to know my engine's little faults and idiosyncrasies intimately.
If I had been able to just stick it in the bike and ride, it would have left me without any knowledge of how the engine works and how to find and fix problems. If I could get a better, branded engine next time then I would.

 

[crassius]

AFAIK, all the motors use 4.8 studs, diff is that newer motors make them in 8mm thickness so they hold better - upgrading costs nearly nothing if you buy a meter of 8.8 threaded rod and make a dozen or so for about $4

not really needed tho as handled properly the 4.8 studs won't cause any problems - handled poorly, they'll fail

 

[Dave FZ1000]

Anyone ever make a list of the screws bolts and whatnot that needs replaced? Haven't got mine all together yet, would be a great time for an upgrade!

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

Anyone ever make a list of the screws bolts and whatnot that needs replaced? Haven't got mine all together yet, would be a great time for an upgrade!

All of them. Lol.

I left the case bolts stock because I have not split the case yet. I have upgraded all the other bolts to stainless steel allen head bolts, and all the studs to grade 8.8 zinc plated.

 

[crassius]

none of them if handled properly

 

[Frankenstein]

Both of them, one for each side of the coin.