Wheel build question

Discussion in 'Bicycle Repair' started by Frankfort MB's, Aug 21, 2016.

  1. Frankfort MB's

    Frankfort MB's Well-Known Member

    Just got all the parts in for my 212cc predator wheel....

    It's a double wall rim with 12g spokes and a freewheel, I tried lacing it tonight and it doesn't seem right....
    I can't tighten the nipples any more and the hub is still not tight.

    I can take more pics if needed.
    Where did I mess up?!?!

  2. Frankfort MB's

    Frankfort MB's Well-Known Member


    Attached Files:

  3. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Well-Known Member

    You calculated spoke length for the three cross pattern but you have laced with the two cross pattern.
    Is what it looks like..
    Google images of two cross pattern and three cross pattern to check. No harm done anyway :)

    I just "won" a rear wheel tonight, which was lucky because I paid for the front wheel that matches it last week. :p
  4. Frankfort MB's

    Frankfort MB's Well-Known Member

    I bought the spokes from a local bike shop so something like that doesn't happen.... Ironically:D

    So do I need to lace it like the video you recommended on another thread?

    I thought a spoke was a spoke..... Oh how I was wrong:p
  5. Frankfort MB's

    Frankfort MB's Well-Known Member

    Oh and after I get everything done right do you think these parts should hold up decently?

    That's the reason I wanted to build a wheel is because I wanted something that would be able to take 10hp of pure Harbor Freight:p

    I've heard nothing but good things from these brands, a second opinion is always good though:)
  6. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Well-Known Member

    I think the images on Google are probably the easiest to follow. Wouldn't hurt to have that video tutorial on a loop though! ;)

    Hmm, personallyyy I don't know what the rims are like. All I know is they don't come with double eyelets.. Or even single eyelets. The spokes you chose are so (insanely, lol) thick for a purpose, so I would have gone for double eyelets, but they do make non-eyeletted rims thicker near the holes (it is just heavier than single eyelets, and doesn't even attempt to do the same job as double eyelets). Saying that I never actually broke a Halo Combat single eyeletted rim when I was using them for mtb downhill/jumping.
    I also know nothing whatever about the hub's you have. My (coming) wheelset's Halo hubs have four sealed bearings.. The hub only gets mixed/poor reviews on the mtb forums tbh, but it will be okay. I will rebuild with the Hope Big Un 48h rear hub when the present one breaks. :)
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2016
  7. Frankfort MB's

    Frankfort MB's Well-Known Member

    I'm still a noob at wheel building and the vocab so bear with me:D

    I figured the extra thick spokes would help with cornering and keep the wheel from flexing.... Also the reason why I bought the double wall rim

    What are you calling eyelets?
  8. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Well-Known Member

    Well I have never built the thing just picked out my parts mostly from Dirt magazine articles in the early 2000s lol.

    I would expect thick spokes to stretch less, sure. Whether that is true irl might come down to material they are made of. If they were expensive then they will likely do just fine. ;)

    You should use Google images, lol. :p
    The double eyelet is a nice thing though. Especially if you plan on using thick spokes (less stretchy, more able to exert large shock forces on the rim) they must need to be well anchored. The double eyelet links the inner and outer walls of the double wall rim, makes it virtually impossible to rip the nipple or eyelet out of the rim. Sometimes a non eyeletted rim can break around the hole and the nipple pulls through leaving a big messy hole where a chunk of rim is missing. I actually have one in my basement like that now.. Cheap wheelset that came on a cheap flat-bar road bike.. They should make the rim wall thickness greater in the central area where the spoke holes will be to compensate for being non-eyeletted, but I guess they just didn't do it enough (and that would never do the job of the double eyelet anyway, only a single).

    Sorry about all the edits. :oops:
  9. Frankfort MB's

    Frankfort MB's Well-Known Member

    Tried to do cross 3 lacing but I'm not sure if I'm right?
    Those 12g spokes WILL NOT BEND.... Especially where I want them to go....

    Trying to keep calm before I chuck it out the nearby window:D


    Attached Files:

  10. Frankfort MB's

    Frankfort MB's Well-Known Member

    Some more "finished" pictures....
    I don't like how the spokes are twisted and not sure if that's right:)

    Attached Files:

  11. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Well-Known Member

    I like how you're still putting the smily face at the end of the post.
    I am not smiling reading this.. What went wrong? You have not laced a traditional three cross pattern. :( I know that there are "fancy" patterns but they're all pretty bad as wheels and difficult to build. The simplest three cross would be fine, weaving under the third cross is nice too but not a problem with all three crosses the same if you want. I really don't know what pattern or video you followed.. Or what you can do now. The spokes must be quite bent now. :(

  12. Frankfort MB's

    Frankfort MB's Well-Known Member

    I figure it's better to laugh at your mistakes than get mad over something you can't prevent.

    I should be able to use spokes again..... They are bent but they are so thick I might be able to bend them back.

    Here's the video that I tried to follow.

  13. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Well-Known Member

    Well, indeed it is. I'm just surprised you were able to!

    I'm not sure if you can get a good wheel build, true _and_ with fairly even tension, after bending and straightening out some of the spokes. It just seems to me that there would never be a reasonably even tension. I have had a quick search for info on it but it seems like no one has ever tried. Personally, I think it is worth replacing the bent ones.

    I've seen the video, I posted the link! :p I posted another above as it shows the lacing nicely but less about the tensioning and truing. But do you not have any three cross wheels around your workshop that you can refer to while you are lacing?
  14. Frankfort MB's

    Frankfort MB's Well-Known Member

    Other than the extremely strong accent, that video was ALOT more helpful and easier to follow than the first one....

    Spokes straightened out good and straight

    I need another opinion but I think everything tightened out great, looks great, and feels great!
    Rolls smooth with ZERO resistance.

    Going to a community bike shop by Saturday to get him to put proper tension on the spokes and to get evaluated by a perfessional in person:)

  15. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Well-Known Member

    Awesome! Can't wait to see! :cool:

    I did enjoy the accent. :D
  16. Frankfort MB's

    Frankfort MB's Well-Known Member

    It looks good but knowing my luck there's something wrong :)

    Attached Files:

  17. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Well-Known Member

    Sorry. PLEASE don't shoot me. :oops: Adjacent spokes should go to opposite flanges.. In your groups of four you have like a R, L, L, R,, R, L, L, R.. instead of R, L, R, L, like the alternating holes in the rim.
    Also in the last pic I can see your valve hole is in the middle of a group of four, so it is more difficult to attach a pump. It should be in a gap like the one 2 spaces to the right.
    *hides and puts helmet on* :oops:
  18. Frankfort MB's

    Frankfort MB's Well-Known Member

    I'm not worried about the pump problem since I typically use a air compressor tip that's not very big.....

    I have a feeling that I should be worried about what your calling the adjecent spokes, I just don't have any idea what your talking about:p

    Could it be a easy fix???
    If i have to respoke it again, it's going somewhere else lol
  19. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Well-Known Member

    You have to relace again. :/ No way around it.

    Okay, what I'm talking about is the way none of the holes around the rim are in the centre. The rim is convex curved (not concave where spokes cross the centre line to the opposite side like interlocking your fingers) so right holes are for the right spokes/ hub flange, left holes for the left.. Like almost interlocking your fingers.

    The good news is you can sort out the valve hole placement while you are completely relacing your wheel again. :)

    *puts a hard hat on* :confused:
  20. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Well-Known Member

    Actually, thinking about it, it might be just two of each four that need switching around. The 1 and 2, or the 3 and 4. Though that would not change the valve hole position it would help give more room there and more importantly the correct L, R, L, R thing. All the spokes would need to be loosened off evenly to do this, I think.