Wheel Ideas

[Timbone]

I can think of two ways to improve your rear wheel:

I am an old bike racer/ long distance cycling guy. Those guys used to do all kinds of things to render a "stiffer" wheel. That is the gold standard for cyclists: stiffness indicates strength and max efficiency.

The old wheel builders would use tiny washers at the j bend to snug them up. This is where most spokes will break, usually as a result of countless micro bends that eventually weaken and break the metal spoke. The washer also makes the spoke just a tad shorter and sometimes that can help. In my photo you can see I copy this old technique.

The other technique I have not copied - yet! Once the wheel is built and checks out round and true after stress relief, you can wind the intersecting spokes with copper wire and solder them. This continues to be a controversial idea in cyclists circles, but the offerings for motorized wheelers is obvious: the spokes will be stiffer, suppressing the forces that bend the spokes at the j bend.

Timbone

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

View attachment 77132 I can think of two ways to improve your rear wheel:

I am an old bike racer/ long distance cycling guy. Those guys used to do all kinds of things to render a "stiffer" wheel. That is the gold standard for cyclists: stiffness indicates strength and max efficiency.

The old wheel builders would use tiny washers at the j bend to snug them up. This is where most spokes will break, usually as a result of countless micro bends that eventually weaken and break the metal spoke. The washer also makes the spoke just a tad shorter and sometimes that can help. In my photo you can see I copy this old technique.

The other technique I have not copied - yet! Once the wheel is built and checks out round and true after stress relief, you can wind the intersecting spokes with copper wire and solder them. This continues to be a controversial idea in cyclists circles, but the offerings for motorized wheelers is obvious: the spokes will be stiffer, suppressing the forces that bend the spokes at the j bend.

Timbone

Are you using a steel flanged hub? Alloy hubs and some spoke/hub combinations might not benefit from washers, as I understand that the washers are just there to bring the bend right up snug to the flange.

A detailed pic I stole off the interwebs:

The link to the article it's from for further reading
https://roadcyclinguk.com/how-to/maintenance/winter-wheelbuild-part-seven-spoke-washers.html

A cycle forum argument, err discussion on the subject of spoke washers
http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/spoke-head-washers;-they-worthwhile-536515.html

 

[Timbone]

Thanks for a thoughtful reply! I am very familiar with all these arguments/ conflicts/ differences. Geez, I am old enough to remember seeing bicycle racers on wheels built with washers and soldered cross spokes. Today's bicycle race wheels are so much better that even most clunky Cat 5 newbies are on some sort of ZIPP super wheelset that costs mega dollars! My, how things have changed.

I never used washers or solder on any bicycle wheel I ever built, but these ideas are solid. Using generic 14g spokes, washers pretty much have to snug up the connection at the hub. I am not picky about these washers, either. In fact, I am using the little thick ones you can find at, say, a Lowe's tool department over with the pop rivets and riveting tools.

Weight is not an issue here. Strength and stiffness is the end all be all. I think the idea of a continuous wire (all the way around the wheel) connecting all the cross spokes with solder has the potential to make a superwheel, making the rim itself the weak spot in the system.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

I don't think that SAS rim you got will ever be the weak spot in the system.

But yeah I know nothing of this spoke wire solder thing!
and the spoke head washers, I was just attempting to express (badly) for others that it's either definitely needed or definitely not needed, and while more likely to be needed on an old school/ steel flanged hub, (unless you're a professional wheel builder) it's only really possible tell by having the actual specific hub and spokes in hand so that you can see the fit.

 

[butre]

I still do the soldered cross spokes. it doesn't really do that much other than make it a b**ch to true if it does go out, but it looks damn cool.

 

[Timbone]

I don't think that SAS rim you got will ever be the weak spot in the system.

But yeah I know nothing of this spoke wire solder thing!
and the spoke head washers, I was just attempting to express (badly) for others that it's either definitely needed or definitely not needed, and while more likely to be needed on an old school/ steel flanged hub, (unless you're a professional wheel builder) it's only really possible tell by having the actual specific hub and spokes in hand so that you can see the fit.

So far, the SAS Halo rim is holding steady. Lovin' it!

The soldering makes good sense. Yes, trueing afterwards would leave you with the option of melting the solder, retrieved, then resolder. Bicycle wheels are not under nearly as much stress a motorized wheel.