Where is the structural weakness that keeps...

I'm running a full suspension and it's the only way to go. The sad truth is, however, the frames of motorcycles are made from larger tubing with heaver walls. The axles, bearings, hubs, spokes, wheels and everything else is bigger/heaver. Remember, a row boat will float just fine, take it in the ocean, you're gonna die.
 
I highly recommend FULL suspension and good tires for high speeds. I can go 40+Mph and feel fine because the little bumps are absorbed, even despite my trailer having no shocks.

Also, if you have rubber brakes PLEASE get the extra-length pads, then you will be able to slow down and stop from any speed. I SWEAR by them, and they cost ~$5 at Walmart or wherever.

Biggest weakness IMO is rims, and bike tire tubes. Rims bend easy and wobble and have poor balance. My bike has no trouble at high speeds, even with warped rims, but I've shredded tubes and even a tire before if you happen to have it go flat while pushing 30+mph. Changing the rear tire to a solid-foam "no-flat" tube fixed that. My front tire still has a normal tube for now, but the front doesn't have near the stress of a rear tire with the rider's weight on it. Also, the foam makes the tires less bouncy, and safer than an air tube.

If you could have a bicycle with resin-plastic or alloy mag rims and solid foam for both tires, you could probably do ANY speed you are crazy enough to try. Regular spoked rims can handle 50+mph speeds in my experience, but they are weak and WILL warp over time.

A 6.5HP trike I built for a friend has 3 heavy duty 20" resin-plastic 3-spoke rims with solid foam inside the tires, and have had NO issues at any speed, even though he has NO shocks.
 
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You can get around the wheel problems by getting premium downhill mountain bike wheels or parts from them to compliment your current setup. Double walled alloy rims can hold up to just about anything. Even when I popped 4 spokes on my rear wheel (that has a ton of weight on it) I still didn't get any hop or wobble. I only noticed the broken spokes doing an inspection. Dual suspension frames are the way to go IMO. You do get a ton more stability even on rough roads.
I think the biggest danger people have on MB is not doing enough inspections of their rides OR not having enough skill or roadsense to avoid or survive a quick maneuver without dumping.
 
Inspections are at the top of the list, MBing takes a toll on the machine. Better finding that spoke or tire issue in the garage than on the way to the pavement.
 
I think the biggest danger people have on MB is not doing enough inspections of their rides OR not having enough skill or roadsense to avoid or survive a quick maneuver without dumping.

yes -- more MB inspections -- may save lives !!!

I took off down this mountain the other day
just taking for granted that everything was fine
bout the only thing I checked good were the tires

this is one heck of an E-ticket ride coasting down this mountain
fast -- 4 or 5 mile drop

at the bottom I noticed
bracket had come loose
holds my rear brake and support for engine !!!

I SHOULD KNOW BETTER !!!

Ride That Thing - Mountainman
 
I think if you are **** bent on pushing the envelope you'll end up with something resembling a small motorcycle/scooter.If you live that long.I think anything above 30 mph is pushing your luck.A suspension allows higher speeds in more comfort,but I don't think it's any safer.
 
My trike has a surprisingly stable and smooth ride at 30+, considering that there is no suspension. I have considerable confidence in the 3/16" walled 2" aluminum tubing. However, a pothole at 30+ could be terminal. I slow down considerably when on roads that I'm not VERY familiar with.
 
i hope not to ruffle any feathers here...
but is this what you mean?

for me, it is a two step process...

build the bike with the best parts and with keen atention to every detail (you covered.)
then build the power to match it.

much the way we built sprint cars 20 yrs ago.

i started with the largest frame i could find
with top notch suspension parts (had to be K2 EVO)
those are 8 inch hydrualic discs on 30mm front axel and 20mm rear
the bearings up front are greasless.

phase two will be power...
i will go slowly now,
my thoughts pull me in so many directions.

perhaps this forum may be the catalyst..

tell me how you would power this bike?


meanwhile.....
i am testing this "platform"

need to lear to walk before i run...

so far i have broken a crank,
had the disc bolts work loose,
and gone over the bars twice (at slow speeds, thank god.)
(hydraulic brakes on something this light, are very "touchy")

does it look like it matches the "qualifications"
i am seeing a quility helmet and leather britches in my future.
 

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i hope not to ruffle any feathers here...
but is this what you mean?

for me, it is a two step process...

build the bike with the best parts and with keen atention to every detail (you covered.)
then build the power to match it.

much the way we built sprint cars 20 yrs ago.

i started with the largest frame i could find
with top notch suspension parts (had to be K2 EVO)
those are 8 inch hydrualic discs on 30mm front axel and 20mm rear
the bearings up front are greasless.

phase two will be power...
i will go slowly now,
my thoughts pull me in so many directions.

perhaps this forum may be the catalyst..

tell me how you would power this bike?


meanwhile.....
i am testing this "platform"

need to lear to walk before i run...

so far i have broken a crank,
had the disc bolts work loose,
and gone over the bars twice (at slow speeds, thank god.)
(hydraulic brakes on something this light, are very "touchy")

does it look like it matches the "qualifications"
i am seeing a quility helmet and leather britches in my future.

You are going to have to use a rack mount so I would use staton gearbox and and the suzuki ~2.5hp 4 stroke. buts thats just me :)
 
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