White wire succses story!!!!

ok, might have used a zener diode for this test (you get that when you're a newbie) - i have other ones which im fairly sure arent zeners that i will try with tomorrow when its light.

on a second look, im not sure if it is a zener or not - i can give you the markings if you can decipher, i might just grab a standard diode so i know exactly what i have tomorrow.
 
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Excellent work ET,at last we may be getting somewhere. As I suspected the pos&neg output are not equal, this is because the CDI prob. only loads the WW with the pos going pulse, and not or less so in the neg. direction,so it would make sense to try rig up a negative going rectifier&charging circuit.Hopefully the CDI wouldn't notice it (I'm not a 100% sure of that unless I could take a look at the schematic).Do you have a live 12 V battery lying around that you could hook up to the charge circuit ?,the size does not matter but it should be able to put out power at 12V,otherwise it,s not a proper load (high resistance).To find out wether a diode is an ordinary diode or a zener do the following:hook it up to a dc source FI you car batt. and check voltage after diode to other side of batt, should be about 0.6V lower than batt. voltage,if not, and NOT zero you've got a zener.If zero you have an ordinary diode or an blown one,The voltage difference is the zener strike voltage.
If you now reverse the diode connections you should get zilch for a normal diode, if not you have a zener.BTW a zener behaves like an ordinary diode in one direction,but has what is called avalance breakdown when subjected to a voltage above the breakdown voltage.Not a good idea to use them in rectifier circuits.Of course if the zener breakdown voltage exceeds your test source voltage you wont beable to find out what it is (not likely).Do me a favor and measure the resistance of WW to ground,engine not running should be in 10/20 ohm range,my guess.Then we'll take it from there,make sure about the diode otherwise we'll be going nuts in a hurry.I think we stand a fighting chance of getting something to work.One last question can you measure currents with that meter,if so what ranges,the digital job might not handle short charge pulses all that well,but it beats nothing at all.
 
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my own experiences with a small 3 led bicycle light from Harbor Frieght is really helpful not all the time but most of the time. batteries last 60 to 70 hours (I use it in the daylight required by law)
 
ww to ground 2.8 as per post #29 (kinda hidden in there, though!)
Yes, MM measures up to 10A dc.

Ok, so it is a standard diode - 13.02v standard, 12.58v with diode. 0.01 in reverse. whats next, ill keep working on this after work (leave in 30 minutes).
 
OK,lets try out the simplest thing first,negative going charge circuit. You need a LIVE 12V battery,(see previous post).
Connect pos. side of battery to ground and connect diode to WW with band towards it. Connect neg. side of battery via Am meter (pos. side to battery, neg. to other side of diode, 1 Amp or 100mA range).You may have to start engine first or put a switch in between.Measure current at different speeds.If ignition can't stand this, put small 12 V automotive bulb in series with WW (cuts down charge current some).If this works we'll try something more ambitious.Do you have other electrolytic caps (25 V plus rating),you have a 470 microfarad, any 330, 220 or 100 mF ?.Do you have any live 6V batteries,it might be interesting to find out if those can be charged too.Would be more of a load, but also get more power to out of WW so would charge more quickly.As I pointed out previously your digital meter may have trouble coming up with an accurate average value of the charge current ,which consists of a succession (25-80 cps) of pulses, esp at low speeds and read erratically.unless you get an instrument with an analog read out,nothing can be done about this.
 
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If you don't have a 12 or 6V battery,a 14V zener or two 7V or any series combination of zener diodes that adds up to either 14 or 7V (1 Watt rating) will simulate a battery as far as the charge circuit is concerned (watch the polarities) .Of course you're not charging anything but the currents will be the close ,as is the effect on the WW output.
 
i have bought a
6v 1.5 amp hour battery.
27ohm resister
few switches and a strip.

I plan to go

WW > battery > lights.

i'll be mocking it up tonight/tomorrow and we'll see how we go :)

i have a question though, i thought the white wire was only rated for 'about' 6v and about 1amp ? so i bought the 27ohm resister so that it would be a 'trickle' charge off the white wire during daytime riding and at night i'd have a full battery

( or atleast some charge in the battery while also drawing from the white wire to power the lights. )
 
ok, took one for the team and bought an analogue multimeter (not bad @ roughly 18USD) - also got 1 330, 1 220, 1 100uf 24v cap, and a pot if we need some kind of variable resistance. dont have any zenier diodes, but happy to pick some up tomorrow if need be.

Have a Ni-CD power tool battery which is currently charging to 12v, will do some charge tests once its up to juice, probably in 20 minutes or so. FWIW, the power tools transformer is 240v in, 15v 400ma if thats useful for later.
 
ok. so, with that set up, im pulling 120ma at idle, up to 170ma at highest rpm, battery is at 12.9v
suggests 2.2w at peak, yes?

oh, and i dont have a 6v battery readily available. However i can probably take the one i have to pieces + remove cells to make it 6v if required.
 
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