White wire succses story!!!!

well, ive had a crappy night of it so far, killed a few diodes, but the test that i did manage showed 90ma @ idle and 175 at high rpm with the 47uF cap.

circuit as attached, not sure its right... i find it much easier to visualise a circuit than to describe one (pretty visual person really)
 
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47mf is too low try 470, make sure these batteries are alive!.I mean can be charged&discharged,keeping a log is helpful.
 
One thing you ought to know about is that caps are not without losses,this manifests itself in part as ESR, short for equivalent series resistance,which speaks for itself.This becomes important in large elctrolytic caps used in power circuits,like we are dealing with here.Just looking at one doesn't tell you anything and unless it's listed on a spec sheet you have no way of knowing.It turns out that often a couple of smaller ones in parallel have a lower ESR,lets say two 220mF caps could have lower ESR than one 470mF.The ESR is of importance because of the momentary high currents due to the low duty factor (probably below 10%) inherent in what is essentially a ignition circuit.The cap values are not critical in the ptp circuit,more is better,on the other hand there is no point in overdoing things.You could for instance parallel your 220,330& 470 mF and see if that works any better.Good luck.
 
sorry, this was a 470uF cap, not a 47 - typo. This circuit appears to be effecting the ignition, at least a little - however that might have been after the diodes blew, which would make sense (i dont remember it faulting earlier on) Battery is fully charged @ 12.8 or so volts - what sort of log would be useful, as far as battery charge goes? i am writing a log as i go with regard to currents achieved on each circuit, but just reporting here numbers,not in log format.

what should i be experiencing, assuming its working? higher idle current? higher high rpm current? both?

ill buy some diodes tonight, along with a breadboard to make this easier - complete pain in the behind using connector blocks on small components, connections are not as good as they could be as well.

impression - best to wait till we're done, i suspect we'll go down the zener voltage regulator path along with an overcharge protection circuit once we've got the best current/voltage rectification circuit sorted out - a least, that would be the most useful way of setting up a circuit for these motors
(correct me if im wrong or its too much work duivendyk!)

duivendyk - is the battery acting as a form of voltage regulator already in this circuit, or?
 
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ok, reconfigured one of the batteries into a 6v, 1.2ah. Battery was 10 cells @ 1200mah, removed half - if we end up using 6v ill put the other 5 cells in parallel to get 2.4ah.

also, since ill be going to the electronics store (www.jaycar.co.nz) - what else would be suitable, should i get zeners now or?
 
Yes, I was afraid the ptp circuit could affect ignition.Try adding more caps in parallel to see if things gets any better currentwise, go up to 1000mF 470+330+220= 1020mF (my guess won't help much but while you're at it).It's quite possible the one diode circuit is the best we can do,I mean we get maybe a bit more output but start messing with the ign.About a log,I meant just taking some notes,what circuit &results that sort of stuff not a romance novel about all the diodes that bit the dust etc.As far as the 6V battery you put together,start with the original one diode circuit,if the ptp circuit affected the 12V setup,I would expect this to be more pronounced at 6V eap at idle.BTW if you reverse ALL polarities (diodes,caps&battery) in the ptp setup you end up with +12 V,my intuition tells me that this would not work as well,but I'm not really sure that it would make any difference.I could be wrong.Some folk don't like negativism.If you have any small LED light kicking around,if running the charge circuit of the WW in the ptp mode what about running an LED via a diode pos. polarity (band towards) LED.Don't hook up LED directly, the neg. output pulse will kill it,it will flicker LED's turn on/off in a micro second.Then we would get at least something from the pos. pulse,just a thought.
 
I did not really answer your question about what to expect.I would hope that you would get more output at speed with the ptp and possibly more output at idle too.If that is not the case we might as well stick with the simple one diode circuit.
 
ok, so im getting very excited now.

Obviously i had issues with the diodes i was using, so i remade the circuit with some 3a 1000v diodes i bought today.

220ma at idle, off the scale of what my mm will read at load (so at very least 300ma), if it scales accordingly - unfortunately it wont pick it up on the 10a DC setting, i guess its just not stable enough. So, that equates to 2.8w at idle, and if the 300+ is right, at least 3.8w at high rpm. All with the 470uF cap, and engine rev'd freely without any issues. Whats next D, im very excited with this development, looks like very usable power! Tried adding the 220uF cap in parallel with the 470uF, no real change in idle current.

and yes, i did retest the 1 diode only test, still showed 80 + 120 - tested by putting diode across on and off, 80 to 200+ instantly
 
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ok, so im getting very excited now.

Obviously i had issues with the diodes i was using, so i remade the circuit with some 3a 1000v diodes i bought today.

220ma at idle, off the scale of what my mm will read at load (so at very least 300ma), if it scales accordingly - unfortunately it wont pick it up on the 10a DC setting, i guess its just not stable enough. So, that equates to 2.8w at idle, and if the 300+ is right, at least 3.8w at high rpm. All with the 470uF cap, and engine rev'd freely without any issues. Whats next D, im very excited with this development, looks like very usable power! Tried adding the 220uF cap in parallel with the 470uF, no real change in idle voltage.

and yes, i did retest the 1 diode only test, still showed 80 + 120 - tested by putting diode across on and off, 80 to 200+ instantly

wow Nice, does the engine start with the things turned on ? or just when its already running do yo uswitch the electrics on ?
 
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