Whizzer Automatic clutches

I got a call today from Debbie. She will look into some replacement shoes for me. Is there any advantage to running thin shoes in there? Will I get the same end result if I just ride it to seat the shoes? Should I use locktite on the mounting bolt? I am still a little confused about the washer/ bushing/spacer sequence. I'll have another read.
Quenton, can I send you my clutch for a look see and needed upgrades/repairs/estimate?
It's a good feeling having this whole Whizzer/Motorbike community and friends to help a guy out
 
I find the original shoes with the thin contact material works best as it ends up with more contact area. The later unit have thicker shoes, however they aren't as wide and less contact area.

If the clutch hasn't been upgraded, the bearing sleeve will self-destruct and destroy the one way bearing [expensive]. The original bearing sleeve can be cut with an average tool bit and is VERY soft.

You can take your time in getting the shoes to mate with the insdie of the hub, will just require taking the cluth apart much more often to conture the shoes.

The spacers must allow the clutch to turn freely without touching the boss on the arm. Normally the brass spacer has the small edge towards the clutch bearing between the arm and clutch. The additional spacers normally go between the large outer washer and the bearing.

Have fun,
 
Thank you very much again Quenton!
My 2005 clutch (upgraded from manual clutch) has about 300 miles on it. I find it strange the shoes were worn down as much as there are after 3 hundred miles. I just rode it for 50 miles and then I thought it was worth the money after it was broke in. Just hit the gas and it would hook right up. I can tell by looking at the 3 shoes they are making 100% contact. They are wafer thin but worn very evenly.
My thinking was, great, I caught it in time before it gouged the drum.
The clutch has never been upgraded. I didn’t know there was an upgrade for it. The clutch turns freely with the front belt driving it, but I have no power to the rear wheel?
What do you think I need? I think I need someone to upgrade and fix my clutch. Know anybody that does that kind of work?
Thanks, Jim
 
Quenton, I bought an auto clutch from you for my vintage Whizzer. Do I still need to replace the bearing sleeve?
I know this question is for Quenton,
If you bought a new vintage Whizzer auto clutch It's probably the new version Quinton had made by Max Torque Clutch (Made in USA)
No ya don't have to replace the bearing sleeve.
 
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