Hi Senseibruce,
Sorry I haven't had a chance to pass on some helpful information sooner, but have been very busy checking out a bunch of used Whizzer NE motors I just aquired for resale. There are many, many ways to correct your belt issues. First, it is important to note that I do things differently than most, but my Whizzers hold several speed records and some have even pulled "wheelies" at a recent competition event. I personally like the "notched" type belts, and use the Gates AX27 [Gates Tri-Power V-Belt] for the front belt, both on the automatic and manual clutch versions. The "vintage" Whizzers used an AX26 for the front. AX belts are marked differently and the numbers aren't the length, in fact they are 2" longer than the number indicates, therefore the AX 27 is 29" long same as a 4L290 from NAPA. NAPA even carries notched belts in odd sizes that start with numbers like XL 25 92XX, an example is XL 25 9265 [31/64" X 26 7/8"]. Once you have selected the new front belt, I suggest you remove the rear belt from the sheave, loosen all the motor mount bolts, move the motor around until the front belt is tight. Tighten the motor mount bolts, install the rear belt, and adjust the rear wheel to tighten the rear belt. If the rear belt can not be tightened either replace it with a AX belt that is the correct length [often the rear needs a 1" shorter belt than stock] or add extra lengths in the chain to allow the rear wheel to move rearward enough to make the belt tight [may need a half link kit that can be purchased at the average bicycle shop]. The most important thing to remember is to make both belts tight and if the rear is pulled too tight it will pull the pulley downward and loosen the front belt. Another option to consider is the use of the Whizzer belt tension kit [I think the part number is 3010, but not sure] because it allows you to use a belt for a very long time even when it stretches pass normal use.
In your original post you mentioned the motor "bogs down" and "has no torque", sadly the earlier WC-1 motor wasn't a strong contender when power was needed. I could give you several suggestions on increasing the power of your motor, but if you increase the power you increase the heat and the WC-1 motor will most likely develope loose valve seats if modified. There are several "fixes" for the earlier WC-1 motor, but the best route is to replace the cylinder with either the NE cylinder or a cast iron version. The cheapest and best way is to convert your motor to the NE setup, and figure a way to handle the extra power & torque. The NE setup will at least double your current power output and still keep the gas milage around 100 MPG. Whizzer dealers offer a complete kit which includes the cylinder, piston, rings, wrist pin, wrist pin clips, head, head bolts, exhaust manifold [to clear the larger cooling fins], breather system, lifter cover, 22 MM carburetor, and all gaskets & bolts needed to make the conversion. Another way [cheaper] is to simply replace the cylinder, head, head bolts, exhaust manifold, and gaskets. You can use your current piston, rings, breather system, tappet cover, and carburetor [with a small modification] in order to save money. The stock NE motor [with the restrictor opened up] will easily travel 45 MPH, and get there rather quickly. I can't say enough about the NE motor because my test motors are almost stock [stock bore, stroke, carburetor, camshaft, etc] and some have exceeded 68 MPH on a dyno. In other words the NE setup is strong in stock form and can really perform with a few minor modifications. Hope this information is helpful, if more is needed, just ask.
Whizzer OuterBanks,
Quenton
