Whizzer Belt Adjustment/Replacement

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by senseibruce, Nov 8, 2007.

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  1. senseibruce

    senseibruce Guest

    Hi Guys,

    My '98 Whizzer has no torque. She slowly builds up to 35mph on the flat land (I'm happy with that.) but, if I goose the throttle or go up any kind of an incline, she bogs down considerably. I hear a squeek noise that sounds like a belt slipping. But I really don't know if its the belt, clutch or something else.
    Is it the belt tension?
    How do I adjust the belt(s) tension correctly?
    Could the belt be stretched out and need replacing?
    Can I get a workable replacement belt(s) at a local auto parts store or should I order and wait for a "whizzer belt"?
    Someone please school me on the belt/clutch workings of my recently purchased, used 1998 Whizzer. I'd love to get her running half as good as she looks!
    Thank-you so much.

  2. belts

    Check out the answers by MBMike & Q.G. Those two guys have 40 weight in their veins.

    I had the same prob. There is another adjustment that you can make by loosening the motor mounts & moving the engine forward a little. My bike doesn't have these mount adjusters. I went to a cent clutch & no more problems. What part of S. CA you live in? There is a pretty good wrench in San Juan Capastrano that can help you. Dave at 949-240-4085
  3. senseibruce

    senseibruce Guest

    Thankx Zomby,

    I was hoping someone could give me a place to start. The cen. clutch sounds good too. I'll try to move the engine forward tomorrow. I'm right outside L.A.X. If you or anyone knows any good people out here, but San Juan isn't too far if it means getting the old girl purring again. But my ego/low budget demands I try to 'goose' her up myself first. Thankx again Zomby Builder!
  4. Whizzer belt adjustments made easy

    HI Sensei, well it goes like this, the easiest tool to use is to cut a long wedge from 2x4 or 2x6.

    The WHOLE engine moves forward together as a unit to adj rear belt tension, your rear axle position being pre-determined by proper chain tension.

    Front belt, is most easily adjusted by loosening the "hands" in front on the vibration bar, getting them out of the way, and then loosen the PIVOT bolt (just above, and forward of the clutch), loosten the bottom nut, slide the wedge in low behind engine and seat tube, tap with mallet, and the bottom of the engine will "roll" forward, and you will effectively tighten JUST the front (clutch) belt.

    Tighten EVERYTHING back up, and tap out the wedge, you are ready to re-install the belt guard and ride.

  5. senseibruce

    senseibruce Guest

    Hey Mike,

    I've read many of your posts and I've got to say, I was hoping I'd hear from you. Between you and Zomby I think I can, I think I can. Can you give me any instruction on belt wear and replacement. Thankx so much.
  6. Front or "Clutch" belt

    Hi Sensei, well belts....... It's really kinda hard to say what the life of a belt is, BUT, the orig belts are NOT as high of quality as can be purchased here, will NOT last as long.

    Two schools of thought on the two commonly used belts. The "notched" belt turns around the front pulley easier, may eat a little less HP, and also, tho, may have a bit less contact area on the pulley.

    The other belt would be a smooth sided belt, wheather covered or uncovered. Now, SOME belts squeel like a stuck pig, and others do not. I personally do not like to use the "squeelers", as I find all that noise unnecessary.

    For reasons I'm not sure of, I have not done as well with Napa belts, as some others. I currently have a Kelly-Springfield, on my 2005 factory Whizzer, a Carlisle Gold (gift from a friend to try) on the old prototype, and I forget what on the 09 (now torn down for Powdercoating).

    I like the Kelly-Springfield (goodyear) 4l-290, and they can be had at AutoZone for 4.99. On the rear, I've got Kelly's on all the bikes. You will rarely replace a rear belt. I only got 50 miles or so out of the orig front belt on my 2005. My rear belt was a factory defect, and I put the kelly on in the first 10 miles or so (it kept flippin over). only have 376 miles on that bike.

    My webmasters 2006 blue auto-clutch bike had 5,000 miles on it when I replaced the front belt. Auto-clutches are easier on belts than the manuals, but I always run Manuals on my bikes as I prefer them. If you decide to go Autoclutch, I'll give you a lil trade-in on your manual clutch parts.

    I use the slack adjusters on my manual bikes, it makes it alot easier to do fine adjustments. You will know that your front belt is shot when it is too long to be able to be adjusted.

    Hope this helps,

  7. senseibruce

    senseibruce Guest

    Your my MB cyber-sensei!!!
    Thank you for sharing.
    p.s. I love your website. Is converting the clutch a tough job?
  8. Clutch conversion

    Hi thanks, I'm glad you like my site, I've been doing motor Bicycles longer than most people I know. My site has been up a long time, and there is sooo much I need to put up, if I only knew how.

    Clutch conversion;

    1) remove belt guard
    2) remove cable and it's retaining clamp
    3) remove cable from hand lever
    4) pop rear belt
    5) unscrew the long pivot bolt nut
    6) set arm and pulley aside
    7) install new arm and cent. clutch
    8) pop belts on
    9) put belt guard on
    10) Ride the bike.
  9. senseibruce

    senseibruce Guest

    Hey Mike,
    Here's an update on my Whizzer saga...
    I cracked the clutch lever housing while pulling the clutch. I want to blame the Chinese pot metal it's made out of but really I think I mistakenly tightened the nut that allows the clutch assembly to pivot and disengage. 'baca-tari' that's Japanese for dumb-****!
    I know they'll edit that! I'm a little discouraged but I'll get her done. Eventually!
    Thank-you again for your help. If you ever need anything So. Cal way please let me know. Thankx Brother.
  10. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Senseibruce,
    Sorry I haven't had a chance to pass on some helpful information sooner, but have been very busy checking out a bunch of used Whizzer NE motors I just aquired for resale. There are many, many ways to correct your belt issues. First, it is important to note that I do things differently than most, but my Whizzers hold several speed records and some have even pulled "wheelies" at a recent competition event. I personally like the "notched" type belts, and use the Gates AX27 [Gates Tri-Power V-Belt] for the front belt, both on the automatic and manual clutch versions. The "vintage" Whizzers used an AX26 for the front. AX belts are marked differently and the numbers aren't the length, in fact they are 2" longer than the number indicates, therefore the AX 27 is 29" long same as a 4L290 from NAPA. NAPA even carries notched belts in odd sizes that start with numbers like XL 25 92XX, an example is XL 25 9265 [31/64" X 26 7/8"]. Once you have selected the new front belt, I suggest you remove the rear belt from the sheave, loosen all the motor mount bolts, move the motor around until the front belt is tight. Tighten the motor mount bolts, install the rear belt, and adjust the rear wheel to tighten the rear belt. If the rear belt can not be tightened either replace it with a AX belt that is the correct length [often the rear needs a 1" shorter belt than stock] or add extra lengths in the chain to allow the rear wheel to move rearward enough to make the belt tight [may need a half link kit that can be purchased at the average bicycle shop]. The most important thing to remember is to make both belts tight and if the rear is pulled too tight it will pull the pulley downward and loosen the front belt. Another option to consider is the use of the Whizzer belt tension kit [I think the part number is 3010, but not sure] because it allows you to use a belt for a very long time even when it stretches pass normal use.
    In your original post you mentioned the motor "bogs down" and "has no torque", sadly the earlier WC-1 motor wasn't a strong contender when power was needed. I could give you several suggestions on increasing the power of your motor, but if you increase the power you increase the heat and the WC-1 motor will most likely develope loose valve seats if modified. There are several "fixes" for the earlier WC-1 motor, but the best route is to replace the cylinder with either the NE cylinder or a cast iron version. The cheapest and best way is to convert your motor to the NE setup, and figure a way to handle the extra power & torque. The NE setup will at least double your current power output and still keep the gas milage around 100 MPG. Whizzer dealers offer a complete kit which includes the cylinder, piston, rings, wrist pin, wrist pin clips, head, head bolts, exhaust manifold [to clear the larger cooling fins], breather system, lifter cover, 22 MM carburetor, and all gaskets & bolts needed to make the conversion. Another way [cheaper] is to simply replace the cylinder, head, head bolts, exhaust manifold, and gaskets. You can use your current piston, rings, breather system, tappet cover, and carburetor [with a small modification] in order to save money. The stock NE motor [with the restrictor opened up] will easily travel 45 MPH, and get there rather quickly. I can't say enough about the NE motor because my test motors are almost stock [stock bore, stroke, carburetor, camshaft, etc] and some have exceeded 68 MPH on a dyno. In other words the NE setup is strong in stock form and can really perform with a few minor modifications. Hope this information is helpful, if more is needed, just ask.
    Whizzer OuterBanks,
  11. senseibruce

    senseibruce Guest

    Much Thankx Quenton

    Hi Quenton,

    I just wanted to thank you for your helpful tips. I really appreciate it. I long for the day that she rides as good as she looks! I'm going to pm you with a question. (when you get a chance.)
    Thankx again.
  12. WhizzerWayne

    WhizzerWayne New Member

    hi! i have the exact opposite problem with my whizzer the front belt(AX27) is to tight, And it won't clutch propperly how do i fix this problem?
  13. WhizzerWayne

    WhizzerWayne New Member

    they say the wc1 will self destruct sooner or later, mine is at 8000miles and counting don't know if it's becuse i ran the first 1000miles with a little bit of lead substitute
  14. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi WhizzerWayne,

    Remove rear belt from sheeve. Loosen the motor mount bolts. Move motor around until the front belt is just slightly tight [not too tight], then tighten motor mount bolts. Place rar belt back onto the sheeve and adjust rear wheel location so the clutch pulley just starts to move downward, tighten the rear wheel and you should be reard to go.

    Often belt companies have a tolerance level and often the belts vary greatly. I have noticed the Gates version of the AX27 is tight.

    Have fun,