Whizzer, continuing story

DaleIce

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This is about the continuing effort to get my '99 Whizzer to run. So far, it has a GY6 piston and the timing notched up one tooth. The carb that was on it was a PZ19. It would start but wouldn't rev up. I tried a new PZ19 and various jets and moving the center tapered jet up and down. Not much better. I now have a PZ20 with whatever jets it came with. Once I moved the tapered jet to its highest position, it will run on the stand but not rev to much past 1/2 throttle. Sometimes, I can finesse the throttle and it will rev up but when I try to ride it, it craps out with no power. It seems like its not getting enough fuel but...the plug was black today, after I tried running it again. It always starts on the first revolution of the pedals and will idle nicely. I have a new NGK BP6S plug at .025 gap. I'm kinda running out of ideas...At least I've figured out the crankcase pressure issue and its not blowing oil out like it was...
 

Wrench

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This is about the continuing effort to get my '99 Whizzer to run. So far, it has a GY6 piston and the timing notched up one tooth. The carb that was on it was a PZ19. It would start but wouldn't rev up. I tried a new PZ19 and various jets and moving the center tapered jet up and down. Not much better. I now have a PZ20 with whatever jets it came with. Once I moved the tapered jet to its highest position, it will run on the stand but not rev to much past 1/2 throttle. Sometimes, I can finesse the throttle and it will rev up but when I try to ride it, it craps out with no power. It seems like its not getting enough fuel but...the plug was black today, after I tried running it again. It always starts on the first revolution of the pedals and will idle nicely. I have a new NGK BP6S plug at .025 gap. I'm kinda running out of ideas...At least I've figured out the crankcase pressure issue and its not blowing oil out like it was...
The issue might not be the carb.

Check your valve seats, both or one of em probably came loose..
This was a serious problem with the 1999-2004 as the valve seats would come loose within the first 500 miles.
The valve seats were pressed in place but the seat design along with thermal expansion they came loose

Whizzer corrected this problem in late 2004 by offering the NE-5 cylinder that had cast in place valve seats.
If your valve seats are loose you can upgrade your cylinder, Paul will have everything you need.
While the reproduction cyl from Cruzzer isn't exactly like the Whizzer NE-5 cyl from 2005-2007 It will work
 

DaleIce

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Valve seats are not loose. I made sure of that when I had the engine apart.Staked in, all around, thoroughly. Like I said, it starts fine...just runs outta power....
 

Wrench

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These Whizzer Engines take a C7HSA or C7E S/P depending on the depth of the head S/P hole

Whizzer valve lash specs are IN - .009" EX - .009"
But set em to IN - .008 Ex - .010

Cam advanced one tooth counterclockwise
I know ya said you did this but just checking if it's the correct direction.

Do you have good compression?

I'm not saying you didn't do a good job of staking in the valve seats but...
The thing about thermal expansion is the engine will run fine until it heats up then the valve seats will leak compression gasses
When it cool down upon start up it seems fine again the valves seats don't leak compression gasses.
Sometimes the staking itself will pull the metal way from the seats in between the staking points causing leaks in those areas

A quick inspection of the valve ports should tell ya what's up

BTW why did ya stake the valve seats were they loose?

I suggest to turn the cyl upside down and spray carb cleaner or another solvent in the intake and exhaust ports and see if anything leaks out from around the valve seats. this will reassure you that the valves are sealing

GY6 57 mm piston and rings should be fine, I assume the rings are clocked correctly because ya didn't complain about it smoking


Yeah maybe ya just need to dial in that carb
 

DaleIce

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Thanks for the definitive questions. About 100psi compression. Exhaust seat was loose...applied JB Weld and staking to the seat. JB Weld holds at least 900F. Intake was tight but I staked it also. If anything was amiss with the valves, I wouldn't think that it'd start so easily. Yes, timing and valve clearance was set per your instructions. Rings were clocked.Valves were lapped in. I've been working on motors for 50yrs and this thing has me flummoxed...I will try a cylinder leak down test...engine has less than 1 hour run time in total, since rebuild.
 

DaleIce

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I went out and gapped the plug to .030. I moved the tapered jet one position lower( I'd had it at the richest position). Jet has 5 positions possible. So its incrementally leaner. It started instantly, seemed to run a bit better than before and then started bogging down. It will idle but I have to feather the throttle so carefully to get any revs at all. Its un-rideable like this.
 

Wrench

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CDI
I've had my Whizzer 17 years and put over 40K miles on her
I probably seen every problem and a few more that a Whizzer could have.

At first when I hear of a 1999 WC-1 I automatically think of all the problems they would have
But now that I remember, I had symptoms where the engine would idle fine but when I give it throttle it would loose power.
It drove me a little crazy at first and I checked everything.
Come to find out the CDI was bad, New CDI was all it needed
 

DaleIce

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Now that's interesting as this bike came with a replacement CDI...I'll get a new one...thanks!
 
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