Whizzer CVT drive system pictures...

bobco

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Jan 12, 2009
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I did a search on here, and of course the catalog on whizzermotorbikes.com website is blocked by my work 'filter'!!! Can somebody who has purchased a new NE-R pull the belt cover off their bike and take some good close up shots of the new CVT pulleys. I'd like to see it to get some ideas for my Schwinn cruiser project! :unsure:
 


august

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Jan 3, 2009
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31
I have some pictures that I just took, but I am on my way out of the house for a couple of hours, I will post some pictures when I get back home.

August
 

Quenton Guenther

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Aug 2, 2007
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The air/oil breather system is in fact an item Whizzer "ripped off" from me, but it is just one of many modifications, upgrades, and improvements they managed to take without credit or compensation. In 99% of the cases they managed to alter each item, I guess in order to "claim" my designs as their own. Sadly each time they altered my design, the results often negated the improvement. The oil vent system is a perfect example, when Debbie at Whizzer USA sent me an email telling me she was going to use my design, but not give me credit, my wife said "no problem, because they will mess it up and it will cease to work anyway", and she was right! I designed the vent system to operate in the upright position, higher than the vent hose, and a wider O.D. chamber, and taller. My design also included a PCV valve that is gravity sensitive mounted in the top of the breather, and doesn't work if not attached to the frame correctly. I noticed in your pictures [thank you for sharing the photos with everyone] the breather system appears to just "hang" from the vent hose, I suggest you attach it in an upright position for 2 reasons, first the motor at idle will have negative crankcase pressure and will in fact let some of the oil drain back into the crankcase, and secondly if they used a PVC valve it won't close because it is a gravity valve. At one time I tested a valve [from a power brake boost system] that was spring loaded, but IT DID NOT WORK, and in fact helped remove additional oil from the motor. If the system fails to work correctly and violates EPA laws, just research this site for information on how to build your own vent system. I originally addressed the pollution issue in late 2002, and hundreds of owners have made their own systems from my designs from parts purchased at the average hardware store, and usually spent less than $10.00 in the process.

Have fun,
 
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august

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Jan 3, 2009
Messages
31
The air/oil breather system is in fact an item Whizzer "ripped off" from me, but it is just one of many modifications, upgrades, and improvements they managed to take without credit or compensation. In 99% of the cases they managed to alter each item, I guess in order to "claim" my designs as their own. Sadly each time they altered my design, the results often negated the improvement. The oil vent system is a perfect example, when Debbie at Whizzer USA sent me an email telling me she was going to use my design, but not give me credit, my wife said "no problem, because they will mess it up and it will cease to work anyway", and she was right! I designed the vent system to operate in the upright position, higher than the vent hose, and a wider O.D. chamber, and taller. My design also included a PCV valve that is gravity sensitive mounted in the top of the breather, and doesn't work if not attached to the frame correctly. I noticed in your pictures [thank you for sharing the photos with everyone] the breather system appears to just "hang" from the vent hose, I suggest you attach it in an upright position for 2 reasons, first the motor at idle will have negative crankcase pressure and will in fact let some of the oil drain back into the crankcase, and secondly if they used a PVC valve it won't close because it is a gravity valve. At one time I tested a valve [from a power brake boost system] that was spring loaded, but IT DID NOT WORK, and in fact helped remove additional oil from the motor. If the system fails to work correctly and violates EPA laws, just research this site for information on how to build your own vent system. I originally addressed the pollution issue in late 2002, and hundreds of owners have made their own systems from my designs from parts purchased at the average hardware store, and usually spent less than $10.00 in the process.

Have fun,
Quenton. Thanks for the reply. The breather was in the upright position when I got the bike, the same position that you have in your pictures. I had it hanging down because I was doing the lifters and cleaning up the wiring a little bit.

It does seem to have a valve in it, I can push air out, but not in, or vise versa, can't remember which now, but acts like it has a valve.

I did the lifters per your instructions. The bottoms of the lifters were perfectly flat, no runout at all.

The cam was one tooth advanced as well.

I got the replacement compression lever that was broken, so tomorrow I will start the bike. Seems like the compression lever is kind of hard to push, how much do you have to push it in order to do the job?

Also seems like this thing really pedals hard, I expected it to pedal easily. Are you supposed to be able to ride this like a bicycle, or just a motor bike?

Thanks August
 
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go-rebels

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Dec 16, 2008
Messages
194
I normally ride a Specialized Sirrus Pro with aluminum frame, carbon fiber forks, tubes, steerer, Zerts inserts and disc brakes front and rear. One of the most lightweight pedal bicycles sold for under $2000.

The Whizzer weighs 97 lbs. Enough said.

The Whizzer will never pedal easy. I don't know about your clutch, but the manual model drags a bit, as it should. Think about carrying your 200lb buddy uphill on the back of your bike. That's how your Whizzer should ride.
 

Quenton Guenther

Motored Bikes Sponsor
Joined
Aug 2, 2007
Messages
2,128
Hi August,

That is great news about the breather. I would suggest mounting the breather as high as possible and try to keep it perpendicular to the ground.

Considering the amount of parts that must be put into motion to start the motor on the NE-r, it soon becomes apparent that additional "leg" power is needed.

The new edition Whizzer, when equiped with a manual "slip" clutch allowed you to "pedal" the bike. It was a little harder than the average "baloon" tire bike because of the extra weight, but I rode one about 5 miles a few years ago [ran out of gas]. Because of the one way starting systems of the automatic clutch riding as a bicycle took on a entire different meaning. If you needed to pedal the bike without the motor turning it required removing one of the belts. Each model [except the Ambassador] became harder to pedal because of the additional moving parts. The NE-r has a lot of moving parts, and the pedal cranks are really wide, so I suspect it will take more effort than any previous model to start. On most of my Whizzers, I locate the left pedal at about 11:00 and a swift downward motion [like using a kick starter] starts the motor easily, but I don't know if that method would work on the NE-r.

Let is know when you discover the "easiest" way to bring the motor to life.

When the NE series motor was produced, the exhaust manifold had a deeper flange to avoid hitting the larger cylinder fins. The compression release cable bracket was never upgraded to allow for the wider manifold, and therefore the cable is mounted way left of center, and causes the cable to drag against the outer cable housing. The severe cable mis-alignment makes the cable pull harder than normal. On some of my motors I installed the vintage compression release clip part #2225. The vintage part is in perfect alignment with the compression release arm. The #2225 fits under the left rear head bolt, and is very easy to install. On some of my Whizzers with the hi fin heads, I had to cut the stock bracket and have an extension piece welded in to make the lever pull easy. #2225 can be purchased from many different places, including memory Lane Classics in OH, or Ron Houk in Yorba Linda, CA.

Does your NE-r only have one compression release? Some of the new NE-r versions also had an extra release in the head, but hopefully yours doesn't. The release was originaly installed on the Ambassador and after trying 7 new ones on my Ambassador [see picture], I gave up and bought a 10 MM fine thread bolt at ACE hardware. I installed the bolt, marked the needed length and cut the bolt flush with the combustion chamber roof. Because of the design, the "automatic" compression valve soon became "automatic" in allowing air into the cylinder and usually turned the exhaust pipe blue [lean] in the process.

Please keep us posted about your new Whizzer, and if you need any help along the way, we are here for you.

Have fun,
 

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august

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Jan 3, 2009
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Good info Quenton. Thanks

The weather was better here today, so I got the engine started, and went for a ride today.

Some of my observations.

I have never ridden a Whizzer before, so I have no basis for comparison. I expected the CVT drive to give a fairly good take off because of my experience with snowmobiles. I was mistaken.

The take off feels poor to me, taking off on an incline without pedaling is painful, and slow, very slow.
Going up a hill while moving at 20 mph or so will also reduce speed a lot.

I had the clutch cover off while riding, and either I don't fully understand how this cvt is supposed to work, or it isn't working. I always thought that as you gained speed, the front pulley would squeeze the belt further and the rear pulley would open and let the belt ride further down in the pulley thereby giving more speed as you went faster at fewer rpm's. Then as you slowed, the front pulley would open and the rear would close up giving you a lower ratio for starting out.

I never saw the belt move at all in either pulley no matter what speed I was going. The pulleys are not aligned very well, so I wonder if that is putting some strain on the pulleys and not letting them move in and out according to speed. I seemed like the rear pulley was slipping more than it should, I expected it to hook up pretty solid once you got going so you could maintain speed on a hill.

At any rate, I am disappointed in the ability of the cvt to start out decently, and maintain a hill. Not having any experience on a whizzer, maybe I am expecting too much????

I am going to remodel the bracket that hold the compression release cable so it is more in line with the lever. I think I will make a better handlebar lever as well, make it out of metal and a little longer for better leverage.

Other things, the carb is still too rich, I put in a #78 main jet and put the needle in the lowest position. Clip in the highest. I will try that out tomorrow.

The heat makes the carb extremely hot, and after shutting the engine off, it was hard to start. There was raw gas in the air cleaner . The heat is making the fuel percolate. I lowered the float level. I think I will try to figure some sort of different spacer between the head and carb. Something that won't transfer as much heat as the aluminum spacer that is there now. Maybe a solid bakelite or something like that. Maybe even a rubber hose connection if I can find something. Maybe off of another motorcycle.

I need to come up with some way to align the pulleys on the cvt.That might prove to be more difficult, I might try to re-align the engine some, that seems to be part of the problem.

The muffler is louder than I anticipated. This thing is louder than My 1400 cc Kawasaki Concours. I like quiet (a lot).

I have a hip replacement on my left side, so I have,after 4 dislocations, and a total hip revision, learned to not put much stress on the left side, so I am using the same procedure as Quention just using the right leg instead of the left. I feels awkward, but I will get used to it. Once I get the carb sorted out, I think this is the easiest way to start it.

Well this is what I think so far. There are a lot of things to do, but I am having fun working on it.

I appreciate all your suggestions, so keep'em coming .

August
 
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