bill green
Member
Hi Quenton still breaking in motor went 46mph easy.now waiting for replacement 90mm auto clutch ,first one all locked up ,warranty time. Bill Green
I have a 1999 Whizzer, and I removed the slug in the air cleaner and then went to remove what you guys are discussing here. There is an 1/8th inch thick insulator/gasket between the carb and intake. When I look down the intake is looks like the intake flange is threaded onto the one piece intake port.
From the outside - it looks like there is a pipe pressed in. But on mine the inner diameter was nearly 3/4", which is much larger than the 3/8x16 tap recommened. So I just honned it a bit and slapped it all back together. Plus, I don't want to mess with a cam gear - as I just got my first Whizzer and don't have a lot of experience with this motor yet.
Maybe I am missing something, I dunno.....
Thanks!
Dallas
Hi Dallas, Sounds like someone already opened the I.D. of the intake port. If the intake flange is threaded onto the tube [part of the cylinder] it is a WC-1 cylinder. The NE cylinder has the intake flange molded into the cylinder and allows the I.D. to exceed 1" if needed [ I machined one cylinder 1 - 1/4"]. A very common modification made to the WC-1 cylinder was to open the restrictor to 3/4", whereas many removed the entire restrictor. If I were you I wouldn't worry too much about advancing the camshaft, but where to order the NE cylinder kit or needed parts to upgrade your motor. If the WC-1 motor if left completely stock, I have heard it lasts for a long time, but if modified the life span is very short. The enemy of the WC-1 motor is heat, and with performance upgrades too much heat is present. The NE motor has wider fins, different material, and the valve seats are installed during the molding process [not pressed in later] to make it a prime canidate for power modifications, not to mention the larger intake valve [almost 69 MPH on a dyno]. The upgrade can be done several different ways, either the NE cylinder upgrade kit or only the cylinder, head, exhaust manifold, bolts, & gaskets to save money. I have one NE cylinder kit left and will offer it 2 ways to suit your needs, first as is, secondly exchange the stock cylinder and the piston & rings [most use the original piston & rings anyway] for one of my special modified cylinders [even trade]. If money is an issue [when isn't it?] then you might consider using your current carburetor, piston, & rings, and only replacing the vital parts. If you want prices please PM me and I will help as much as possible with discounts. I have helped at least a hundred make the upgrade [many on this site] so I can answer any questions about the process.
Quenton
Quenton
Whizzer 58
Member
Do I have a NE cylinder and head ?
Hello,
I purchased a 2000 Whizzer last week that was made by Polar Motor Co. The guy I got it from said it's been sitting for six years, so I cleaned the carb because there was old gas in the bike and the two jets were clogged. With the carb off I looked at the intake and there is no resticter in the intake tube I read that the NE cylinder has the intake cast into the cylinder and that's how this one is. Are there any markings on the cylinder or head to say what it is? This bike has 17 miles on it and it looks it, the only thing bad is that it had old gas in it. Any comments...........thanks
Hello,
I purchased a 2000 Whizzer last week that was made by Polar Motor Co. The guy I got it from said it's been sitting for six years, so I cleaned the carb because there was old gas in the bike and the two jets were clogged. With the carb off I looked at the intake and there is no resticter in the intake tube I read that the NE cylinder has the intake cast into the cylinder and that's how this one is. Are there any markings on the cylinder or head to say what it is? This bike has 17 miles on it and it looks it, the only thing bad is that it had old gas in it. Any comments...........thanks
Hi, Whizzer58
Anything you want to know about the new generation Whizzer, Just ask!
Your question answered in detail. Whizzer has offered us 2 different, but very similar motors from the 1999 model to the current NE5 version. NE5 is the motobike model, and NE is the motor series. I can tell you at least 20 different ways to tell the two motors apart. I will offer you the short version to save time, if the fins on the cylinder are wider than the head, the head has a polished looking surface, the carburetor is mounted to the cylinder, not a tube with a flange on it, the carburetor is a 22 MM [or 26 on the rare early NE motors] not a 17 MM, it has large breather hose connected to the compression cover, the sidecover is embossed with the name Whizzer, the exhaust pipe has a larger I.D., the flywheel has balance holes, the motor doesn't have a oil vent hose on the left side of the motor[flywheel side] then it is an NE motor. There are a few more way to tell the motors apart, and a few internal differences, including a larger intake valve [for more torque] , a healthy camshaft profile, special lifters, shorter intake length, larger intake port I.D. [but restriced with plate], better shaped exhaust port, progressive oil vent system [I like mine better], and last but not least the valve seats are part of the molding process and not pressed in later. The best part of all is the earlier WC-1 motors can be converted to the industructable NE completely or in various stages [depending on budget].
The good, the bad, & the ugly is the only way to class the following comments. The good is all Whizzers but some are better, the bad is a WC-1 Whizzer motor that has been modified [restrictor removed], and ugly is how we get when our motorbikes stop running. It is important to know the WC-1 motor just doesn't like a lot of heat, and I have modified WC-1 motors that produced almost 650 degrees [notice I said produced, not for long]. So if the restrictor is removed, you need to keep it slow [not too slow that the motor doesn't cool], and your ride should last. If you want more power upgrade the top end of the motor with NE parts. If you need more information, just ask.
Whizzer OuterBanks,
Quenton
Anything you want to know about the new generation Whizzer, Just ask!
Your question answered in detail. Whizzer has offered us 2 different, but very similar motors from the 1999 model to the current NE5 version. NE5 is the motobike model, and NE is the motor series. I can tell you at least 20 different ways to tell the two motors apart. I will offer you the short version to save time, if the fins on the cylinder are wider than the head, the head has a polished looking surface, the carburetor is mounted to the cylinder, not a tube with a flange on it, the carburetor is a 22 MM [or 26 on the rare early NE motors] not a 17 MM, it has large breather hose connected to the compression cover, the sidecover is embossed with the name Whizzer, the exhaust pipe has a larger I.D., the flywheel has balance holes, the motor doesn't have a oil vent hose on the left side of the motor[flywheel side] then it is an NE motor. There are a few more way to tell the motors apart, and a few internal differences, including a larger intake valve [for more torque] , a healthy camshaft profile, special lifters, shorter intake length, larger intake port I.D. [but restriced with plate], better shaped exhaust port, progressive oil vent system [I like mine better], and last but not least the valve seats are part of the molding process and not pressed in later. The best part of all is the earlier WC-1 motors can be converted to the industructable NE completely or in various stages [depending on budget].
The good, the bad, & the ugly is the only way to class the following comments. The good is all Whizzers but some are better, the bad is a WC-1 Whizzer motor that has been modified [restrictor removed], and ugly is how we get when our motorbikes stop running. It is important to know the WC-1 motor just doesn't like a lot of heat, and I have modified WC-1 motors that produced almost 650 degrees [notice I said produced, not for long]. So if the restrictor is removed, you need to keep it slow [not too slow that the motor doesn't cool], and your ride should last. If you want more power upgrade the top end of the motor with NE parts. If you need more information, just ask.
Whizzer OuterBanks,
Quenton
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Whizzer 58
Member
Thank you for the helpful information.
john hamilton
New Member
- Local time
- 1:43 PM
- Joined
- Jul 7, 2008
- Messages
- 15
I have a 1999 or 2000 whizzer, the serial number is 3ypoo7219. My spark plug is always sooty looking after a day even after putting in a new one. If I go up a steeper hill even with me peddling, motor will slow and die. I read in service manual to pull out cable in carb and put clip in a different position. Local dealer said plugs are always sooty looking and don't mess with cable. What are your thoughts on this. Bike always starts right up and goes 35mph. It goes great on hills when you get a run at them or if there are flat parts on them. John
john hamilton
New Member
- Local time
- 1:43 PM
- Joined
- Jul 7, 2008
- Messages
- 15
What could I do to increase the performance and horsepower on my whizzer. I live in Duluth Minnesota which mostly hills. What would give me the most power for my money. What are the different options I can do without spending thousands. John
RdKryton
Active Member
Hi John
It does sound like you are running a little rich. Does the engine start easily and run smooth? You may only need to drop the needle one notch. That means raise the clip one notch so it lowers the needle a little bit. If your motor is unmodified you are probably getting as much power that you can from the stock setup. You have a WC-1 engine and they are not good candidate for modification because the extra heat will kill it. One other trick that may help with the carbon build up is to advance the cam timing one tooth counter clockwise. this is a pretty easy thing to do. If you need more info about this please private message me and I will give you more detailed instructions on how to do this. Also please register with us and tell us a little bit about yourself. It's nice to know a little about who we are helping.
Hope this answers your questions.
Jim
Your best bet for more power is to do the NE upgrade. There are a couple of dealers here on this site that can fix you up with the complete upgrade kit or just replace the things needed to make the engine less likely to be affected by the extra heat of a modified engine. Again please PM me for more info.
It does sound like you are running a little rich. Does the engine start easily and run smooth? You may only need to drop the needle one notch. That means raise the clip one notch so it lowers the needle a little bit. If your motor is unmodified you are probably getting as much power that you can from the stock setup. You have a WC-1 engine and they are not good candidate for modification because the extra heat will kill it. One other trick that may help with the carbon build up is to advance the cam timing one tooth counter clockwise. this is a pretty easy thing to do. If you need more info about this please private message me and I will give you more detailed instructions on how to do this. Also please register with us and tell us a little bit about yourself. It's nice to know a little about who we are helping.
Hope this answers your questions.
Jim
Your best bet for more power is to do the NE upgrade. There are a couple of dealers here on this site that can fix you up with the complete upgrade kit or just replace the things needed to make the engine less likely to be affected by the extra heat of a modified engine. Again please PM me for more info.
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