Whizzer intake restrictor plate questions.

Hi John, As Jim said, advance the camshaft, lower the needle and ride. If you need more power you should upgrade to the NE cylinder kit [I have a waiting list, should be available in about 3 weeks], or at least replace the cylinder, head, and exhaust manifold with NE parts.

Have fun,
Whizzer OuterBanks LTD
A North Carolina Corporation
Quenton
 
A pic of the restrictor plate. I just hogged out the center so it looks like it is still there. This is on the bike I am now buying. The bad thing about the plate in the intake is that it slows the air down so much that the throttle can not be opened up at all, it takes the fast moving air to pull the fuel up (IE) no air, no fuel. Have fun, Dave
 

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Hi Egor,
The photo tells me 2 things, first it is an NE motor, and secondly the plastic spacer is broken, and you should upgrade the intake system with the Whizzer aluminum manifold kit. The manifold is standard equipment on the 2008 NE5 & Ambassador, but can be purchased [not much money, via your local Whizzer dealer]as an upgrade for the earlier models and will enhance the carburetor response. Prior to the release of the manifold kit I made and tested several versions and sizes [depth], and my tests concluded an aluminum manifold with a 18 MM hole and approx 1/2" [.545"]deep produced the most flow with the 22 MM carburetor. I think the manifold in the kit is 18MM I.D. and approx. 1" [not sure], but is a great upgrade. Don't expect the aluminum manifold to create the untimate path from the carburetor to the intake valve, because most will miss by at least 1/16", but it still works very well, and will help cool the carburetor. Here are some interesting facts, the carburetor venturi isn't 22 MM [22 MM mouth], but less than 18 MM, most of the intake port I.D.s are 18 MM, the aluminum manifold I.D. is 18 MM, the intake valve seat I.D. is 20.8 MM [valve is 24 MM]. Humm... alot of 18 MM holes in the intake system. Lets see 22 MM to 18 MM [venturi] to 18 MM [intake manifold]to 18 MM [intake port] to 20.8 MM [valve seat I.D.], makes for a nice fuel path. Don't forget to install the restrictor plate [9.5 MM I.D.] to reduce the flow [that is what a restrictor is designed to do], and you have 2 choices, either between the carburetor and the manifold or between manifold and the cylinder. Considering the carburetor lines up with the aluminum manifold nicely, I always locate the restrictor plate between the manifold & the cylinder, because the manifold port alignment I.D. is usually off a little at that junction. If the manifold alignment is off slightly then there is a minor restriction at that location, and if I locate the restrictor plate between the carburetor and manifold, then I now have 2 restrictions instead of one [one is enough for me].
On my Ambassador motor [un restricted] I added a restrictor plate between the manifold & the cylinder and re-shaped the hole to "blend" the small difference in port I.D. alignment.
Have fun,
Whizzer OuterBanks LTD
A North Carolina Corporation
Quenton
 
Hi Quinton - I wont be able to install the restrictor plate as I carved it out to the 18mm. Now it is just there to see on the outside for the black and whites, if they care. I think if whizzer wanted a way to keep the HP down to two they could have installed a plastic rod inside the slide to keep you from opening the throttle past two HP. The heat block came with the ear broken off, I just snug the carb to keep from breaking that off also. I am not going to get crazy with this thing trying to get a lot of performance, it will do 40 easy now, but the belts are a pain to adjust with the auto clutch. I wonder if they are going to build a new bike, is there a Whizzer in the future. Have fun, Dave
 
In all likelihood, you probably will need to re-adjust your carb after opening up the restrictor plate.
Anything that alters the amount of air flowing through your motor will require you to adjust the amount of fuel it takes in also.
 
Which carb?
Lots of past information here, about the Wc-1 cyclinder.Would be good to read.

Ray
 
If it is WC-1 and ALL resistor are removed the carburetor will be near correct. This is only true if the camshaft is advanced one tooth. if it "stumbles" at 1/4 throttle lower the needle jet one notch [second groove from the top].

If NE and intake restrictor is removed :
Lower needle [clip in second groove from top]
Lower main jet to #82 or 84

Have fun,
 
More information is needed, if wc-1 main jet is #80 factory, should be #74,#76 or #78. Or there maybe after market product.

Ray
 
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