whizzer issues

Ok I'll try to help. Take the side cover back off. You should see a dot on the cam gear and a dot on the crankshaft gear. Turn the crankshaft gear so the dot is at the nine o'clock position. Then lift the cam and turn it until the dot lines up with the dot on the crankshaft gear. Then move the cam gear one tooth counterclockwise. That should cure the valve timing problem. Put the cover back on, add oil and you should be good to go. Good luck and let us know how you make out.

Jim
 
Thanks to Quenton for the phone call and help. I still have not been able to get it started but did take a look at the lifters, the back one is def. worn down quite a bit and this might be my problem. Anyone out there have the mushroom lifters in stock and how much do these run. Oh my wife is not happy with me:) I have given up for the night and will try again tomorrow, at least to get it to where it was.
 
Frenchlayer - The pic of the timing marks shows the proper placement for the marks, I know the factory marks are supposed to line up but this is how they cut down the HP. The second is of the cam make sure the lobs are not worn down also they should be the same height. The third is of an engine with the restrictor installed and no manifold, it would be in front of the carb. Do you have anyone that will move the timing lug for you? That is where you will get the most improvement. Take the lifter cover off and see what the clearance is, use the settings that Quinton suggested, if you have a wide setting that would indicate a worn lifter. Have fun, Dave

PS: I hogged out the restrictor plate so it looks like it is still there, this is to keep PD happy if they care.
 

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alright kiddies, :DI got the camshaft advanced and now have the bike running again. It still boggs down under load but does fine on level and downhill. the back lifter is def worn down. Who has some replacement mushroom lifters for sale on here? and how hard is it to change these out?
 
Well we adjusted and adjusted and the lifters are in fact the problem. The exhaust lifter has mushroomed big time. I was not qualified enough to tell what the problem was, but my neighbor helped. I was able to track down an old dealer, no longer one, but has replacement lifters, and lives no farther than 5 mins away. Once I get the old ones out I will post pics of the old mangled lifters for you. Hopefully after these are replaced, I can make it up that big ole hill and ride off into the sunset finally. At least I have taken this thing apart and put back together so many times, I am starting to learn a thing or two
 
Hi frenchlayer,

DO NOT use stock lifters in your motor! If you use the earlier lifters from the WC-1 motor it will destroy the camshaft in only a few miles [less than 50]. If you replace with the softened version [what you presently have], they will wear at the base [usually in less than 200 miles] again.
When the NE motor was first released [late 2004], I called Whizzer and told them the lifters are too small for the camshaft profile. I made a set of mushroom lifters and sent them to them as a model for future lifters, however they didn't want to go in that direction. Almost all NE motors [late 2004 to early 2007] have the defective lifters, and they finally used my idea of mushroom type lifters in the late 2007 and the 2008 NE motors. Of course it was much cheaper to use the existing stock of lifters and simply soften them with heat. I told them it wouldn't work, and could possibly destroy the motor, and in fact I saw several motors where the exhaust lifter had smashed and a piece broke off and found it way into the camshaft bearing and did major damage to the motor [destroyed the case beyond logical repair on one motor]. On another motor the metal locked the camshaft bearing, the camshaft, and spun the camshaft gear [goodbye camshaft].
If you replace with mushroom lifters, it will enhance the power [just a little] because the valves are held wide open for a longer period of time. But remember the mushroom lifters are to keep your motor running longer, and the side effect of a little extra power is just a bonus.
If you can't find mushroom lifters, it is possible to have a set made by using 1/2" drill rod, or find a set of vintage Whizzer lifters and cut them down [.3930"] to fit the lifter bores in the case [.3937"]. If you manage to locate a set of current Whizzer mushroom lifters, you should have someone drill out the center [way too heavy], reduce the height of the lifter base to between 1/8" and 3/16", and level the bottom [most are ground at an angle and will change clearance as the lifter rotates].

Have fun,
Quenton
 
I am pretty sure these are the newer mushroom lifters. I will post pics when I get them to be sure. Thanks for the info!
 
Hi frenchlayer,
They are very easy to identify. Stock are the same size from top to bottom, whereas the mushroom style has a 1/2" base and the rest of the lifter is normal size. If you need information concerning the modifications, just call.

Have fun,
Quenton
 
It is interesting the more I find out about this bike the more disappointed I am. This sounds just like one of those typical China companies that just care about the bottom line and nothing of the quality. They are living on the past icon from American history and selling it like it is what we had then. I still like this bike but after I have spent this much money you would think I could use it for a while without spending too keep it going. I hope I can keep the feeling going to get me through the crummy stuff. Have fun, Dave
 
Hey Dave
Please don't give up on your Whizzer. I upgraded a 2000 WC-1 and spent a long time and a lot of money getting the bugs out of it. Now I have it almost perfect and I am enjoying it more every time I ride. I got out on Saturday and put 15 miles on it and would have gone much longer but rain chased me home.
I have a few engine mods to help it drag my large butt around too and they are worth every penny. The hills here make it hard to ride without the extra power.

Milled head
Hi lift cam (advanced 1 tooth CCW)
Mushroom lifters
26mm carb w/110 main jet
Aluminum intake spacer (cut down to 1/2 inch long and tapered)
Advanced ignition timing from 14 to 23 degrees BTC
Iridium spark plug.
70mm autoclutch
Rear drum brake (for stopping the aforementioned large butt)

I don't mean to sound like I'm bragging but I'm having so much fun I can't stand it. lol
I could never have imagined that an engine this small could make as much power as it does.

Jim
 
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