Hi Guys,
While I don't make my living as a Whizzer dealer, I don't mind making a couple of dollars once in a while. As many already know on this site I offer a fair discount to members. I think [not totally sure] I am Whizzer's largest parts dealer. Often I have parts in stock when Whizzer may be out temporally. I also have a large collection of "vintage" Whizzer parts, most are NOS.
I also suggest you support your local dealer when ever possible. There are several Authorized dealers on this site that would love to get parts orders, and the 3 major Whizzer dealers that I know of are Bill Green, Mike Simpson, and myself [If I missed anyone, speak up]. There are also several new dealers, but I don't know if they stock parts yet. In fact I see they changed my title from senior member to vendor. Since I am now a vendor, maybe I should do some "vending". Just joking!
One great thing about owning a Whizzer is, you can get parts, service, and help when needed.
Matthew, you are correct Lisa always puts me in a great mood. And don't worry about "goofing up" the manifold, because it is aluminum and soft. Almost all the manifolds I have worked with required a lot more time using manual labor as opposed to the machine work. I will give you a few ideas to help save a lot of time and work. You can easily cut the mainifold with a hack saw, and if the angle isn't perfect it really won't make much difference. Before you cut the manifold see which way the manifold best matches the intake port. Use #220 sandpaper on a flat surface to smooth out the side you cut. Make a gasket or order the WC-1 intake gasket and make it match the intake port. Obtain the current NE intake gasket. The 2 gaskets make the front and back of the manifold. I affix the gaskets on the manifold [use the stud kit and 2 more 10 MM nuts] and mark the inside of the gaskets with a black marker, remove the gaskets. You now have a manifold that needs both sides to match the inside lines of the marks. Use your Dremel grinder to remove the excess metal from the manifold. I don't suggest you use stones because they load up quickly, but instead use the little sanding drums with your Dremel, because it is easy to put on new drums when needed. I usually use 5 or 6 of the drums on the average manifold. Just a couple more important notes, I use 2 of the earlier WC-1 gaskets, and one of the current NE intake gaskets. I place one of the modified WC-1 gaskets against the cylinder, next I install the restrictor plate, then another modified WC-1 gasket, then the aluminum manifold, then a thin version of the current NE intake gasket, then the carburetor. I want to take time to explain why you should include the restrictor plate, first the studs won't have to be shortened, secondly the restrictor plate will help isolate the carburetor even more from heat, third using the restrictor plate keeps your warranty in place. I have had owners tell me they modified the restrictor plate to help smooth out the slight mismatch from the aluminum manifold and the intake port, and it makes a big difference [also voids your warranty]. If you need additional help, just ask.
Have fun,
Whizzer OuterBanks [North Carolina]
Quenton