Wrench probably won't see this for a while now to answer that since he just left today for a two week RV vacation...Won't be back until 3-28-2022...DAMIEN
Whizzer WC-1 Cylinder
- Thread starter mason_man
- Start date
Risk Man....I have two 05's January.
The 24 inch version, red like yours. Also this one, it's the 24 inch version of the NE5 model in pearlized ultra black. Whizzer USA took this one to the February 2005 Dealer Expo in Indianapolis.
How you coming along with that slip clutch?
Ray
The 24 inch version, red like yours. Also this one, it's the 24 inch version of the NE5 model in pearlized ultra black. Whizzer USA took this one to the February 2005 Dealer Expo in Indianapolis.
How you coming along with that slip clutch?
Ray
Risk Man
Well-Known Member
I adjusted the cable and got a little more relief on the belt tension and thought I had it so I could sit with the clutch pulled in but on my first 20 mile ride Sunday, it still stalled.. seems like the idle could be increased and that may help. I think I still need more release so I may have to move the engine. But now I have my next project to contemplate. It arrived in the dark last night. Sent a bunch of info and Pics to Wrench last night but did not know he was MIA for a couple of weeks. The engine is a "J". The restored and repopulated frame is the mystery. More to come on this one. (took one of the bags off so I could get a look at the rear wheel). The rear wheel is a Schwin S-2 11 gauge spokes and 24" wheels
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Nice bike, I like and use the slip clutch. This is how I adjust them. Remove the chain from the back wheel, remove the rear belt from the rear pulley.
Take off the belt guard from the motor, remove the primary belt. Loosen the bar guide clamp completely off the bar,loosen both motor mounts. Loosen the clutch cable bracket. Everything is loose.
Now put the small belt back on the flywheel and clutch pulley. Move the motor so as to tighten up the belt. Make sure you don't pull down the clutch pulley to much, you want just enough tension to keep it snug. Tighten top and bottom mounts. Reset the clutch cable and clutch cable bracket. You should be able to pull in the clutch arm pretty easy. That part is done. Loosen up the back wheel and brake arm. Reinstall the rear pulley, pull wheel back to tension rear belt and center the wheel at the same time. Retighten brake arm. Last is reinstalling chain,use a half link if you need to.
Oh my! Don't forget to reinstall guide bar clamp.
Ray
Risk Man
Well-Known Member
5 minutes???? Only if you have done it a dozen times like you have!! Thanks Ray. I will take care of this on the weekend.By the way, this should take you about 5mins to do
Whizzes WC-1 cylinder 123cc, aluminum with a iron sleeve. Intake and exhaust valves are both 22mm, head bolts are 6mm.
This cylinder is original, you can still see the casting that's still left in both intake and exhaust valves. No air/oil separator in the tappet cavity. Prime candidate for all the upgrades.
More to come.
Ray
This cylinder is original, you can still see the casting that's still left in both intake and exhaust valves. No air/oil separator in the tappet cavity. Prime candidate for all the upgrades.
More to come.
Ray
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Just curious, what's the odometer reading on those bikes?
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