Whizzer wiring

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by Quenton Guenther, Jun 12, 2008.

  1. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    After hundreds of requests I agreed to supply a lot of information on the wiring and wiring harness.
    Whizzer has offered several different versions of the harness, but the basics remain the same. Often wire colors are changed by one of their vendors, but is usually exchanged with a similar color.
    The most common problem is the loss of grounds or the misunderstanding of the 2 ground system. All "black" wires are ground. All "dark green" wires are ground. In order for the motor to fire only a few items are needed. If the battery isn't used [to smooth out the current] several items won't function correctly. The ignition circuit only needs a Coil, CDI, alternator [stator], and the ignition sensor to power the motor. If you use a battery and don't use the AC/DC & regulator modules, the battery will most likely not survive. The horn won't work correctly without the battery. The turn signals & brake light will cause the lights to operate poorly without the battery. Most Whizzer owners leave the key switch on and run the battery down. If the battery is completly down, the motor most likely will not charge the batter up full, and will require charging with a small battery charger. If the ground on the coil is missing the plug will not fire. If the ground on the CDI is missing the plug will not fire. If the kill switch is shorted to the handlebars the plug will not fire. The horn is activated by attaching a ground to the horn [via the horn button]. The key switch shorts the green wire on the CDI to ground when in the off position. The kill switch shorts the green wire on the CDI to ground in the off position. The ignition switch should be used when a battery is used with the complete haness, becuse it allows the lights to work off the battery when the motor isn't running. All orange and light blue wires are for the turn signals. Green wires with a red stripe are usually the brake light system [however I have seen green with a yellow strip used]. If the turn signals don't flash it is most likely in the switch on the left handlebar needs cleaned. Tail light bulbs burn out often if ridden on a bumpy road. the most commonly replaced parts are the tail light bulb, the headlight bulb [special], turn signal flasher, and the coil [broken spark plug cap or wire pulled out of coil body]. Most people that modify the harness have problems with the ground circuits. I have found it easier to hide the extra wires as opposed to removing them. The later wiring harness has a ground circuit in the rear light plug [motor won't fire unless the rear of the harness is plugged in. The following items have a ground... coil [green wire is the ground], CDI [black wire is the ground], regulator [black wire is the ground], AC/DC relay [black wire is the ground] key switch [yellow wire with a red stripe is ground] kill switch [green wire is the ground] battery [black wire is the ground]. The gray wire on the horn is 12V [with motor running or with battery] The horn, flasher, and brake light switches aren't grounded. The 3 wires for the front head light are ground [black wire], and the other 2 are for high and low beam [controlled from the left control assembly. the 3 wires for the tail ight are ground [black wire], tail ight [yellow], and brake light [usually light green with a red stripe]. There are many extra yellow and black wires in the harness to power the guage lights [speedometer & tachometer]. If the fuse is blown the motor will most likely still run, but the lights won't work with the motor off.
    It is necessary to connect the green and black grounds together if only using the minmium wiring system.
    The current stator is 81 watts and will make the horn work correctly without a battery.

    Hope this information is helpfull, if more information is needed just ask.

    Whizzer OuterBanks,
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2008

  2. peter nap

    peter nap Member

    Very good information Quenton.

    I have two questions. I had my harness replaced under warranty. The dealer just tucked the backlight wire to the speedo, behind the plate on the forks. I haven't found the connector on the harness to hook it up. Could that be missing on the new harness.

    Second question...Is the flasher for the signal lights in the system or do I need to add it. I have a box full of various motercycle turn signals that I may put on instead of the fairly expensive Whizzer ones.

  3. Adam Livingston

    Adam Livingston New Member

    You da' man Quenton


  4. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    There should be several connectors in the new harness for the speedometer & the tachometer back lights. They are usually black [ground] and yellow [switched 12 volts]. I have seen a few speedometers & tachometers with only the yellow wire because the black was grounded to the case. The flasher is available as a seperate item, or is included in the turn signal kit.

    Whizzer OuterBanks
  5. del

    del Guest

    Howdy, Quenton,

    Excellent information, as always. Thanks.
    And now the question...

    Once I was forced to get into it, I found the wiring diagram
    in the service manual for my '07 NE-5 to be fairly accurate.
    But I'm still wondering about the AC/DC relay....

    I was thinking about putting a white strobe light on my Whizzer
    in hopes that it might make me more visible to some suburban
    motorist blasting along in their SUV while talking on the cell phone.

    But the low-rent strobe I bought wants 12V DC. I would like it come
    on when I fire up the bike, without having to throw a separate switch.

    When the alternator kicks in and the AC/DC relay switches to AC,
    does the battery act like a big capacitor and sop up the ripples in
    the current? And, how safe do you think it is to hook up other
    12V DC things? Like, say, a GPS....??

  6. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    The yellow & black wire in the front harness should supply the power you need. The yellow wires are 12V from the battery and then switches to the 12V from the stator. Another place to aquire 12v is one side of the horn.
    Have fun,
    Whizzer OuterBanks
  7. del

    del Guest

    Thanks, Quenton,

    I'll try that with cheap 12V stuff first before I try more expensive accessories.

    And, if I get nuts, I'll haul the oscilloscope down-stairs to the Whizzer and take
    a look at the 12V signal before and after the AC/DC relay switches over.

  8. Adam Livingston

    Adam Livingston New Member

    Head light / tail light /brake light


    finally got my Whizzer Phantom built and the basic eletrical connected to get it to run... thanks Quenton and what fun!

    Now I am trying to connect an aftermarket headlight, taillight (with brake light function with no luck so far and my harness does not really seem to match the wiring diagram in the manual. Here are the facts:
    • Stock Wiring Harness
    • No battery
    • Stock left and right controls
    • Got the kill switch working.
    • Want to use the H/L headlight switch on the left as an on (H) off (L) switch for an aftermarket headlight... which wires from the harness connect to handlebars control wires and which to the headlight?
    • Tail light - which wires on the rear of the wiring harness connect to the tail light?
    • Brake light - have the switch on the right brake lever ... what should I plug that into on the wiring harness? What wires on the rear of the wiring harness should I attach to the brake light bulb in the taillight housing (Have a seperate bulb for tail light and brake light in the same housing)

    If more information is needed from he to assist please let me know...

    thanks ya'll

  9. bill green

    bill green Member

    Hi adam I would use A battery eleminator from the motorcycle world in place of A battery , This would keep from spikeing and blowing bulbs ..I dont think the regulator is big enough to handle the amps on A high rev.... Hope this helps Bill Green
  10. lillback44

    lillback44 Member

    Hi Quenton,
    My name is Chris and i'm new to this forum. I don't even know if this is the proper way to ask you a question or not, but here goes. I have a pacemaker 2 I bought in pieces and i'm trying to get back together. I bought a new wiring harness (old one chopped up.) and a new CDI, voltage reg, coil, and key ignition. All of which plug up nicely. The only one not sure of there is the coil (spark plug). The only wires that seem to go to that are a blk/y and blk. I have that hooked up blk to green and blk/y to blk on coil?
    The other question is the wires coming off the harness. I have a red and blk to battery, a stand alone blk that I put a hoop on and connected to battery cover post, where I sanded paint off to achieve good contact. The other wires coming out are the y,w, blue/y and a blk/brn that stand separate. The wires coming from stator are same colors(maybe the only place in this harness) and connected to the ones from the harness. Tail light harness is plugged into main harness but not to anything else. I'm going for minimum wiring for spark. Horn I put the pink and brn. No light , turn signal, speedo.
    In one of the last things you said in your post was" It is necessary to connect the green and black grounds together if only using the minimum wiring system." I'm assuming this doesn't include wiring for lights and such that aren't hooked up? I'm about to give up on this project. I posted for help but didn't get any response. If you see any mistakes in what i've done or have any input at all on this please contact me. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  11. mason_man

    mason_man Active Member

    Most if not all have gone to Portland Indiana, vintage motorbike club meet.
    If you have the Pacemaker II, then you have what is called the WC-1 motors 99 to about 04. then 2005 to 08 were the NE motors. 07 & 08 Ambassadors, 08 NE-R SE motors.

    wiring harness will be different from the WC-1's, follow the connections for each piece, connectors.
    you might need to get in touch with whom you purchase the harness from. i'm not sure which one you got.

  12. lillback44

    lillback44 Member

    Thanks for your reply. I will be going to that show Saturday and will be taking that motor and harness with me.
  13. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Correct, at the show in Portland.

    Basic wiring was the same on the WC-1 and NE5. NE-r and Ambassador were different because of digital and starter wiring.

    As long as the following items are true it will fire.

    1. Green wire going to CDI plug must NOT be grounded, as the switch and run switch ground the wire to stop ignition.
    2. Look at the pins on the coil and note the base of the connectors are color coded, one is green and one is black. The green post connection on coil must be grounded.
    3. AC and trigger signal must be connected to CDI plug. AC is supplied via the black wire w/ red stripe from wiring harness from under flywheel. The blue w/ yellow stripe is also in the same harness, however it is connected to the sensor outside the flywheel and fires the CDI.
    4. Harness from stator [under flywheel] must be connected to wiring harness, and there are 2 versions. one has a Molex plug with a single extra wire plug connector outside the plug, and the later versions had 2 extra wire connectors outside the plug. The version with the single extra wire, has a six coil stator and the 2 wire version has a eight coil stator. Simply make sure the wires match from the stator to the harness. Yellow to yellow, white to white, black to black, black w/ red stripe to black w/ red stripe, blue w/ yellow stripe to blue w/ yellow stripe. Always remember we [Americans] think black is ground, whereas some countries think dark green is a good color for ground. Often the system uses both black and green as grounds, and don't be shocked to find sections of the harness with the black and green wires connected together.

    Hope we cross paths at the show [might have already done so], we be there until Tuesday.

    Have fun,
    mason_man likes this.
  14. lillback44

    lillback44 Member

    On the new harness I have a y/b to blk on coil and blk to green on coil. One time when I switch them around I got a spark. This is first time I got a spark on this bike but I don't see any spark at the plug!
  15. lillback44

    lillback44 Member

    Any Ideas?

    After buying a new harness,voltage reg, cdi, coil, I still could not get plug to spark. I got a new stator at the portland show and got it all hooked up. Still no spark, but while switching the wire around to the coil, it shot a spark. I don't know which way I had the wire at that time but it made me wonder, did it spark cause I hooked it up right or because I put them backwards? I have no battery hooked up so I no it's not that.
    I don't understand the correct electrical terminology. Had my wiring harness at the show today but couldn't find anyone to help me, Quenton and others were out for a ride. I am really not looking forward to putting this bike together again only to tear it apart. I even had complete darkness when grounding spark plug to engine. Don't know what else I can do?
  16. mason_man

    mason_man Active Member

    The stator you bought needs to match the wc-1 flywheel that has six magnets on the inside, which means the stator is the six coil stator, not the eight coil stator.
    Hang in there buddy, your almost there, take your time going over the wiring. it'll be well worth you time and effort!


    Attached Files:

    Racie35 likes this.
  17. lillback44

    lillback44 Member

    Trying to figure out how showing me a photo of work I just said I did is of any help? Why not show me a photo of the wire on the coil I'm asking about? What a waste of time this forum is. Not even one single answer to any question I asked. Taking this website off of my computer right now.
  18. Racie35

    Racie35 Member

    Get the bike towed at maybe 15mph..hold in the compression release....take the spark plug wire and hook another wire to it with an alligator clip..make sure ignition is turned on......stick it under your tongue and release the compression release...might tingle some....but you''ll get the idea.
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2013
    RUSSELL45 and mason_man like this.
  19. mason_man

    mason_man Active Member

    A little common sense will go a long ways.
    The owner of this forum doesn't make any money giving us a place with so much information, it's to bad
    you couldn't be of more help. let us know what racie's input does, that makes it 3 that tried to help.
    RUSSELL45 and Racie35 like this.
  20. Mike Notigan

    Mike Notigan Member

    I understand wiring and the frustrations it can cause having once wired the entire front area of my old Corvette from the firewall forward. But you haven't made any mention of following the wiring schematic that was so well put into a Sticky by fellow poster KilroyCD, posted for WC1 owners. Following that and Quenton and Ray's detailed advice will have you on your way. Plus a lot of patience. And a volt ohm meter to check for possible breaks in wire continuity.

    On this site is a ton of info just in the Stickies alone from the School of Hard Knocks with a lot of expert advice from Quenton and other Whizzer enthusiasts over the years. Not to mention lots of great info buried in 46 some odd pages of Whizzer talk here. This site and the people who populate it is invaluable if you own a Whizzer.

    I for one have been grateful to the good folks who contribute to the hobby and post here. Maybe after a good nights rest and time to reflect, you'll come to think the same. It's just wire and connections, ya know? Stomping on good folks who want to help is not a good way to go through life.......

    Best Regards,
    2008 Whizzer NER
    bluegoatwoods and RUSSELL45 like this.