Whizzer wiring

After hundreds of requests I agreed to supply a lot of information on the wiring and wiring harness.
Whizzer has offered several different versions of the harness, but the basics remain the same. Often wire colors are changed by one of their vendors, but is usually exchanged with a similar color.
The most common problem is the loss of grounds or the misunderstanding of the 2 ground system. All "black" wires are ground. All "dark green" wires are ground. In order for the motor to fire only a few items are needed. If the battery isn't used [to smooth out the current] several items won't function correctly. The ignition circuit only needs a Coil, CDI, alternator [stator], and the ignition sensor to power the motor. If you use a battery and don't use the AC/DC & regulator modules, the battery will most likely not survive. The horn won't work correctly without the battery. The turn signals & brake light will cause the lights to operate poorly without the battery. Most Whizzer owners leave the key switch on and run the battery down. If the battery is completly down, the motor most likely will not charge the batter up full, and will require charging with a small battery charger. If the ground on the coil is missing the plug will not fire. If the ground on the CDI is missing the plug will not fire. If the kill switch is shorted to the handlebars the plug will not fire. The horn is activated by attaching a ground to the horn [via the horn button]. The key switch shorts the green wire on the CDI to ground when in the off position. The kill switch shorts the green wire on the CDI to ground in the off position. The ignition switch should be used when a battery is used with the complete haness, becuse it allows the lights to work off the battery when the motor isn't running. All orange and light blue wires are for the turn signals. Green wires with a red stripe are usually the brake light system [however I have seen green with a yellow strip used]. If the turn signals don't flash it is most likely in the switch on the left handlebar needs cleaned. Tail light bulbs burn out often if ridden on a bumpy road. the most commonly replaced parts are the tail light bulb, the headlight bulb [special], turn signal flasher, and the coil [broken spark plug cap or wire pulled out of coil body]. Most people that modify the harness have problems with the ground circuits. I have found it easier to hide the extra wires as opposed to removing them. The later wiring harness has a ground circuit in the rear light plug [motor won't fire unless the rear of the harness is plugged in. The following items have a ground... coil [green wire is the ground], CDI [black wire is the ground], regulator [black wire is the ground], AC/DC relay [black wire is the ground] key switch [yellow wire with a red stripe is ground] kill switch [green wire is the ground] battery [black wire is the ground]. The gray wire on the horn is 12V [with motor running or with battery] The horn, flasher, and brake light switches aren't grounded. The 3 wires for the front head light are ground [black wire], and the other 2 are for high and low beam [controlled from the left control assembly. the 3 wires for the tail ight are ground [black wire], tail ight [yellow], and brake light [usually light green with a red stripe]. There are many extra yellow and black wires in the harness to power the guage lights [speedometer & tachometer]. If the fuse is blown the motor will most likely still run, but the lights won't work with the motor off.
It is necessary to connect the green and black grounds together if only using the minmium wiring system.
The current stator is 81 watts and will make the horn work correctly without a battery.

Hope this information is helpfull, if more information is needed just ask.

Whizzer OuterBanks,
Quenton
thanks this will help
 
Hey Quenton I have two Whizzer bikes, 34 miles on one, fewer on the other, they are very unreliable, I am a carpenter, not a mechanic so I’m at the mercy of a mechanic. My question is how do I strip the internal combustion high maintenance junk off my bikes and install a battery operated system on it it’s place?
 
Hey Quenton I have two Whizzer bikes, 34 miles on one, fewer on the other, they are very unreliable, I am a carpenter, not a mechanic so I’m at the mercy of a mechanic. My question is how do I strip the internal combustion high maintenance junk off my bikes and install a battery operated system on it it’s place?
Keep those bikes original and build new e bikes. What year are they?
 
You can make them reliable for a lot less than converting to electric. It would be less expensive to simply buy an electric bike, and sell your Whizzers.

Most new edition Whizzers can be be modified for approx. $400.00, and become dependable transportation. My 1999 has well over 45,000 miles and other than tires has been trouble free since 2005. Have installed a lot of tires over the last 15 years.

Have fun,
 
You can make them reliable for a lot less than converting to electric. It would be less expensive to simply buy an electric bike, and sell your Whizzers.

Most new edition Whizzers can be be modified for approx. $400.00, and become dependable transportation. My 1999 has well over 45,000 miles and other than tires has been trouble free since 2005. Have installed a lot of tires over the last 15 years.

Have fun,
Why can I not get the motor to try turning over when I'm pedaling?
 
Why can I not get the motor to try turning over when I'm pedaling?
A lot of things can cause the motor to not turn over when pedaled. Belt tension is one issue. A slipping clutch is another. Are you using compression release in the process?

You are welcome to call me to discuss in detail if needed
252-475-0406
 
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