Whizzer won't start

[unoahguy]

Did you buy a 4L290 V belt from NAPA?
Was any adjustments needed?

Quenton told me to get an AX 27 and it works wonderfully!

 

[Sp1n]

You say the bike was sitting for 15 years?
The bike will start with a dead battery. The battery is there to run the accessories. The battery will charge up once you get the bike stated But I bet you need a new battery. When you turn the motor over the headlight should come to life with the Stator spinning.
There is one main fuse. But the bike will start with a blown Fuse and the head light and tail light will still work cause of the stator. The battery is needed for the horn, brake light, turn signals and to keep the lights bright when your stopped
First Check and see if your head light comes to life when you turn over the motor. If not check and clean up the battery ground. If the head light comes to life when ya turned over the motor. Check spark plug wire to coil and that the wires to the coil are plugged in also check all other starting system plugs Look for any damaged or loose wires.
I see your bike has a rear mounted stop light switch. I have heard that switch must be plugged in because there is a hidden ground for the starting system.
Before trouble shooting any farther, If you don't have spark replace the CDI with a new one. The CDI is under the tank

Thank you so much for this information! It helped me get a whizzer running that was gifted to me, thought to need stator or other electrical work. I disconnected the kill switch and it started right up!!
I noticed one of the two rubber sleeves that cover the connections to the killswitch was a little blackened like there was a short there or something. Does that mean I need a new kill switch or is the issue in the wires?

 

[Wrench]

Thank you so much for this information! It helped me get a whizzer running that was gifted to me, thought to need stator or other electrical work. I disconnected the kill switch and it started right up!!
I noticed one of the two rubber sleeves that cover the connections to the killswitch was a little blackened like there was a short there or something. Does that mean I need a new kill switch or is the issue in the wires?

Just use the bike without the kill switch, If ya need to kill the motor while riding hold the thumb compression release lever open.

Yes, ya might need a new Kill switch but first test it with an Ohm meter.
The kill switch mounted in the hand grip might be touching, grounding out on the handle bars Just insulate it with black tape on the handle bars.

How about showing us a pic of your Whizzer

 

[Sp1n]

Just use the bike without the kill switch, If ya need to kill the motor while riding hold the thumb compression release lever open.

Yes, ya might need a new Kill switch but first test it with an Ohm meter.
The kill switch mounted in the hand grip might be touching, grounding out on the handle bars Just insulate it with black tape on the handle bars.

How about showing us a pic of your Whizzer

Has her out on her maiden voyage! She runs well! Think I may still need to clean and tune the carb a little though. Any advice on tuning the wc-1? Seems like it runs far nicer if I leave the choke partially open. Idle seems too low unless the choke is open. Is it starved of air? I think the throttle cable is as tight as it can be. Here’s a couple pics!

 

[Wrench]

Has her out on her maiden voyage! She runs well! Think I may still need to clean and tune the carb a little though. Any advice on tuning the ex-1? Here’s a pic!

I suggest putting an air filter on her www.whizzercruzzerparts.com/product/dsc00055/
EX-1? WC-1 Check and set the valve lash Intake .008" Exhaust .010"

The WC-1 has a problem with overheating and the valve seats come loose in under 500 miles, usually because it's modified from stock

Keep the WC-1 at 30 mph and she shouldn't over heat and ya won't have any problems with the valve seat's coming loose.

If ya need to upgrade the Cylinder to a NE-5 ya can get it here www.whizzercruzzerparts.com/product/cylinder-and-tree-005/
Now ya can run your Whizzer at 35 - 45 mph all day long.

If you want to upgrade your engine in the future Paul @ WhizzerCruzzerParts will help you and make sure ya have everything ya need to make your WC-1 a NE-5

 

[Sp1n]

I suggest putting an air filter on her www.whizzercruzzerparts.com/product/dsc00055/
EX-1? WC-1 Check and set the valve lash Intake .008" Exhaust .010"

The WC-1 has a problem with overheating and the valve seats come loose in under 500 miles, usually because it's modified from stock

Keep the WC-1 at 30 mph and she shouldn't over heat and ya won't have any problems with the valve seat's coming loose.

If ya need to upgrade the Cylinder to a NE-5 ya can get it here www.whizzercruzzerparts.com/product/cylinder-and-tree-005/
Now ya can run your Whizzer at 35 - 45 mph all day long.

If you want to upgrade your engine in the future Paul @ WhizzerCruzzerParts will help you and make sure ya have everything ya need to make your WC-1 a NE-5

Sorry I corrected to WC-1 that was a type-o. There is an air filter da going there I just need to get some hose and clamp a and connect it. Thanks for the link.


I’m sorry I’m not super mechanically inclined what are you referring to with the valve lash intake and exhaust? How do I adjust them?

thanks again,
Eric

 

[Wrench]

Sorry I corrected to WC-1 that was a type-o. There is an air filter da going there I just need to get some hose and clamp a and connect it. Thanks for the link.


I’m sorry I’m not super mechanically inclined what are you referring to with the valve lash intake and exhaust? How do I adjust them?

thanks again,
Eric

The Joy of owning a Whizzer Ya gotta learn how to work on it
Get ready for a crash course in setting the valves on a Whizzer

How to find TDC @ Spark to set the valve lash
Remove the belt guard and the primary belt
Remove the carb
Disconnect the compression release cable from the valve cover
Take the valve cover off. Careful with the gasket you can reuse it.
Take the Spark Plug out.
Turn the flywheel by hand counterclockwise Watch the lifters and valves go up and down
When the Exhaust valve opens and closes this is the exhaust stroke
When the Intake valve open and closes this is the intake stroke
As the Intake valve closes you want to turn the flywheel just a little more to where the flywheel trigger plate lines up with the P/U trigger
This is the end of the compression stroke and the beginning of the power stroke. Spark @ TDC (actually 17* before TDC)
This is when you set the valve lash - Spark @ TDC

First check the valve lash ya might not have to adjust the valves

Tools
Philips screwdriver for the belt guard
10mm for the carb nuts
8mm for the valve cover bolts
3 small wrenches to adjust the valve lash 1@ 8mm and 2@ 10mm
Feeler gauge set

Adjusting the lash
Hold the lifter with the 8mm and loosen the jam nut with the 10mm. While holding these wrenches with one hand use the other hand and turn the tappet bolt with a 10mm wrench. Clockwise to increase the lash and counterclockwise to decrease the lash. It will take ya a few tries to get the hang of it.
Ya don't have to turn the tappet bolt much only very very little little bit to make a difference
Use a .008" feeler gauge on the Intake and use a .010" feeler gauge on the Exhaust
The feeler gauge should slip in with a slight resistance.
To check if ya got the valve lash set correctly use the next size smaller feeler gauge and it should fit loose Use the next size larger feeler gauge and it shouldn't fit in
The correct feeler gauge should fit with a slight resistance but not be tight or too loose.

To check the valve lash that was just set turn the engine over by hand a few times then line up TDC @ spark and double check the valve lash with the feeler gauges to make sure ya got it correct.

NOTE: When putting the valve cover back on The exhaust valve has to be open so the compression release will be installed correctly