Whizzer won't start

[unoahguy]

So I replaced the stator today, and when I turned the flywheel the voltmeter said it worked. However, when I tried to start the bike it did not work. I went back to the spark plug to check for a spark, but there was none. By process of elimination, that should be a bad coil, right?

 

[Chainlube]

Try disconnecting the kill switch first.

 

[unoahguy]

Try disconnecting the kill switch first.

I unplugged the kill switch wires behind the headlight and tried turning it on and it still isn't working.

 

[Wrench]

I unplugged the kill switch wires behind the headlight and tried turning it on and it still isn't working.

OK you disconnected the kill switch and it still don't start. Check it anyways with an ohm meter set at 20K it should read 0.00 off and 1 on. The kill switch usually grounds out to the handle bars preventing it from working properly. The kill switch when working properly when switched to off makes a ground to the CDI and kills the motor.

The ignition switch also controls the ground to the CDI
Let's check the ground to your CDI through the ignition switch. With an ohm meter set at 20k with ignition switch off.
Touch the black probe to the green wire in the CDI plug and the red probe to the cyl head bolt. It should read 0.00
Now turn the ignition key on. The ohm meter should read about what your battery voltage is even though the meter is set on ohm
This means your ignition switch ground to the CDI is good.

I was stumped once by a bad ground and I traced it back to the ground gang crimp in the middle of the wiring harness. There is a spot in the middle of the wiring harness where 4 ground wires are all crimped together in a gang crimp one of the grounds had pulled loose.
If all else fails ya might want to check that area. A bad ground to CDI or a bad ground to coil will prevent a spark.

I assume you checked your Coil or got a new one. First check ground wire to coil disconnect ground wire from coil and test with ohm meter set at 20k it should read 0.00 To check the coil disconnect it and use your ohm meter set at 20k and touch the probes to the coil terminals. The meter should read 0.01 or 0.00 Next touch one probe to one of the terminals and the other probe to the the end of coil without S/P wire on. You should get a reading of around 2.75 Now test the other terminal both should have the same reading. Your coil is good. Gotta watch out for that cheep plastic S/P boot sometimes the cheep insides don't make contact with the S/P Check S/P wire and S/P boot hooked up to coil you should get a reading higher than 2.75 because of the resistor in the S/P boot. This means your coil and S/P wire and S/P boot is good.

Is a ground wire bolted to the battery metal box?

 

[unoahguy]

OK you disconnected the kill switch and it still don't start. Check it anyways with an ohm meter set at 20K it should read 0.00 off and 1 on. The kill switch usually grounds out to the handle bars preventing it from working properly. The kill switch when working properly when switched to off makes a ground to the CDI and kills the motor.

The ignition switch also controls the ground to the CDI
Let's check the ground to your CDI through the ignition switch. With an ohm meter set at 20k with ignition switch off.
Touch the black probe to the green wire in the CDI plug and the red probe to the cyl head bolt. It should read 0.00
Now turn the ignition key on. The ohm meter should read about what your battery voltage is even though the meter is set on ohm
This means your ignition switch ground to the CDI is good.

I was stumped once by a bad ground and I traced it back to the ground gang crimp in the middle of the wiring harness. There is a spot in the middle of the wiring harness where 4 ground wires are all crimped together in a gang crimp one of the grounds had pulled loose.
If all else fails ya might want to check that area. A bad ground to CDI or a bad ground to coil will prevent a spark.

I assume you checked your Coil or got a new one. First check ground wire to coil disconnect ground wire from coil and test with ohm meter set at 20k it should read 0.00 To check the coil disconnect it and use your ohm meter set at 20k and touch the probes to the coil terminals. The meter should read 0.01 or 0.00 Next touch one probe to one of the terminals and the other probe to the the end of coil without S/P wire on. You should get a reading of around 2.75 Now test the other terminal both should have the same reading. Your coil is good. Gotta watch out for that cheep plastic S/P boot sometimes the cheep insides don't make contact with the S/P Check S/P wire and S/P boot hooked up to coil you should get a reading higher than 2.75 because of the resistor in the S/P boot. This means your coil and S/P wire and S/P boot is good.

Is a ground wire bolted to the battery metal box?

First off, I want to say thank you for this in-depth help Wrench! (I am by no means a mechanical person and saw this quarantine to learn with this bike)

Let me tell you my findings (all taken with a s**tty 20K voltmeter):

• Kill switch On: open line, off: 0.01
• Ignition through the CDI on: open line, off: 0.04
• Ground to coil: open line
• Coil terminals: both 0.0
• Coil (I did not take off the spark plug boot): 7.81 for both

There's definitely something wrong with the bike, my guess it's a combination of the old central wiring harness and something with the kill switch??

 

[Wrench]

Is there a ground to the frame? Stock is bolted to metal battery box - see pic.

Basic wiring harness $25 - see pic.
When I had a problem with my wiring harness before I unwrapped my harness to search for a loose wire. I bought the basic wiring harness and plugged it in on my bike to see if my electrical parts were OK. The basic wiring harness starts the bike without the ignition switch, kill switch and no battery or accessories. Once I knew all my electrical parts were OK and the bike would run. I removed my bad wiring harness from the bike, unwrapped it and started looking for the short in my harness. I found it it was a loose ground wire in the harness.

www.whizzercruzzerparts.com Paul has the basic wiring harness, but your gonna need the 6 pin AC CDI as the basic wiring harness CDI plug is for the 6 pin . Also ask Paul if you need an adapter plug to plug the basic harness in to your 6 coil stator NE-5
I'm suggesting the basic wiring harness to help you speed up trouble shooting and eliminate the obvious.
To turn off the motor using the basic harness just hold open the compression release lever

A Tip: If you decide to remove the harness from your bike. Tag all the wires with a number and letter system.
I know the all wires are color coated but things become real confusing real fast once it's all unplugged. This way by numbering or lettering all wires there is no question what goes where.

If you were thinking of buying a new wiring harness. The NE-5 wiring harness is not available any more.
I don't think the Cruzzer wiring harness plugs match the accessories plugs on the NE-5.

 

[unoahguy]

Is there a ground to the frame? Stock is bolted to metal battery box - see pic.

Basic wiring harness $25 - see pic.
When I had a problem with my wiring harness before I unwrapped my harness to search for a loose wire. I bought the basic wiring harness and plugged it in on my bike to see if my electrical parts were OK. The basic wiring harness starts the bike without the ignition switch, kill switch and no battery or accessories. Once I knew all my electrical parts were OK and the bike would run. I removed my bad wiring harness from the bike, unwrapped it and started looking for the short in my harness. I found it it was a loose ground wire in the harness.

www.whizzercruzzerparts.com Paul has the basic wiring harness, but your gonna need the 6 pin AC CDI as the basic wiring harness CDI plug is for the 6 pin . Also ask Paul if you need an adapter plug to plug the basic harness in to your 6 coil stator NE-5
I'm suggesting the basic wiring harness to help you speed up trouble shooting and eliminate the obvious.
To turn off the motor using the basic harness just hold open the compression release lever

A Tip: If you decide to remove the harness from your bike. Tag all the wires with a number and letter system.
I know the all wires are color coated but things become real confusing real fast once it's all unplugged. This way by numbering or lettering all wires there is no question what goes where.

If you were thinking of buying a new wiring harness. The NE-5 wiring harness is not available any more.
I don't think the Cruzzer wiring harness plugs match the accessories plugs on the NE-5.

Yes, the ground wire is connected to the battery box.

I found another harness, the full one. https://www.whizzercruzzerparts.com/product/wire-harness-fits-most-re-pro-whizzers/ What accessories would not into this one?

I am debating doing what you're suggesting, but don't want to end up spending more than I have to.

Also, nothing wrong with my kill switch or ignition? Want to double check.

 

[Wrench]

The plugs are probably different. Paul will know ask him if it will match the 2005 NE-5 accessories.
1999 to 2004 WC-1 and 2005-2007 NE-5 and 2008-2009 NE-R and Ambassador All have different plugs on their harnesses
When Taiwan switched to making the Cruzzer in 2014 They changed a lot of the plugs on the harness again.
Sure it will work on all Repop Whizzers. You can either change all the plugs to match. Or you can change all the accessories to match.

Or ya can call this guy @Quenton Guenther 1-252-475-0406 He used to be a Whizzer Dealer and he has repaired wiring harnesses for people in the past. He might even be able to fix it over the phone he is that good of a Whizzer mechanic. You'll get it fixed

I only suggested the Basic wiring harness $25 to help you speed up trouble shooting and plug in your electrical starting components to make sure all was good and your bike would start. That would give you a direction and time to unwrap your harness and look for a short or loose wire. Also you would have the basic harness starting system for a reference. ALOHA Wrench

 

[unoahguy]

The plugs are probably different. Paul will know ask him if it will match the 2005 NE-5 accessories.
1999 to 2004 WC-1 and 2005-2007 NE-5 and 2008-2009 NE-R and Ambassador All have different plugs on their harnesses
When Taiwan switched to making the Cruzzer in 2014 They changed a lot of the plugs on the harness again.
Sure it will work on all Repop Whizzers. You can either change all the plugs to match. Or you can change all the accessories to match.

Or ya can call this guy @Quenton Guenther 1-252-475-0406 He used to be a Whizzer Dealer and he has repaired wiring harnesses for people in the past. He might even be able to fix it over the phone he is that good of a Whizzer mechanic. You'll get it fixed

I only suggested the Basic wiring harness $25 to help you speed up trouble shooting and plug in your electrical starting components to make sure all was good and your bike would start. That would give you a direction and time to unwrap your harness and look for a short or loose wire. Also you would have the basic harness starting system for a reference. ALOHA Wrench

Alright, thanks for all the help. Just ordered the basic harness. I will update you when I get it.

 

[unoahguy]

Update! I got a spark! (Grounded it to the engine and turned the flywheel)

However, it still refuses to start.

I noticed that when I tried pedal starting, the flywheel and belt drive more often than not does not want to move.

What else could it be? A bad fuel line, a dirty engine?