Whizzer won't start

Wrench

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I didn't see any wear from the needle bearing. It has 358 miles on it. I'll call Quenton later today about it.
OK Ask him how ya should shim the crank end play with the HK2012 needle bearing.
I have my own ways of doing things. I would change the side cover to one with the 6904 open bearing and use a spacer.

Some history of crankshaft end play on the NE-5.

There were 2 different cranks that can be used on the NE-5 one uses the side cover with the needle bearing HK2012 and the other uses a side cover with an open bearing 6904. Whizzer USA upgraded to the 6904 cause the needle bearing was too sloppy. Like your crank.
But the 2012 is still some's favorite.

All modern motorcycles and scooters use an open bearing or shielded bearing on each side of the crank.
But ya gotta use the correct crank with the 6904 or make a spacer to fit the other style crank like you got.
Same with the 2012 There is bearing holder that Quenton made for the 2012 that will fit the side cover for the 6904 when using the crank for the 2012

We Whizzer guys had to figure out what to do cause some Whizzers were coming from the factory with a crank for a 2012 and a side cover with a 6904 So we just used a spacer to correct the end play. Instead of getting a sloppy 2012 side cover then having to shim that.

Page 3 on this Whizzer Motorbicycles Section threads I have a thread called "New Gen - Crankshaft End Play - HK2012 - VRS - 6904"
dated Aug 28, 2019 you should check it out it explains my view on the subject in more detail

To use the 6904 side cover with your crank I would have to send you a 4mm spacer or you could make or get one yourself.
You would also have to pay $55 for a new side cover and not sure you want to do that.

Ask Quenton how He would shim the crank end play on the 2012. That might be best.
I would just use the 6904 side cover and spacer. I like it better. Once again check out my thread on the subject.

There has always been a problem with Taiwan - Specifications - Close Enough is Good Enough
The 6904 side cover with the correct crank still has a crank end play of 1mm or .040" and should be shimmed for a better running motor
I made my own shims to achieve the correct crank end play of .003" on each side of the crank

By using the 6904 side cover and a spacer with your crank. We can get it very very close to .003' on each side of the crank. Or just use the 2012 side cover ya got Quenton might have a shim for you. (y)
 
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Wrench

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While you have your side cover off pull the cam and check your valve lifters send me a pic of the lifter bottoms I want to make sure they aren't failing . Whizzrer sent some lifters out in 2005 and 2006 that were too soft and I wanna make sure yours are good.
New lifters will cost $30 form Whizzrr Paul
 

unoahguy

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Apr 15, 2020
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I got new mushroom lifters from Quenton so there's no worry for that. I'll ask Quenton about the other stuff too. Thanks for the help.
 

Wrench

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Pretty sure he will get a shim for ya, It will be an easy fix. Let us know how things work out.
 

unoahguy

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Quenton advised for a quick fix by just putting 4 pennies in the needle bearing hole and a new spark plug. Still nothing...

Should the flywheel on the stator stop spinning when I pull down the compression release when doing start up? It keeps slipping and not wanting to go when I get to that step of start up. I have removed the flywheel twice so maybe the belt is getting loose?

Also, he said something about the spark plug needing to be wet from the fuel. After a couple attempts starting, I pulled out the plug and it was dry. I cleaned the carb a couple times. Am I missing something?
 

Wrench

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Are ya getting fuel? Did ya put the float needle in wrong when ya cleaned the carb.
Dry plug after trying to start a a few times? There should be fuel on the plug.
The engine will turn over a few times after letting go of the CRL. Belt should not slip. Do not hold in clutch lever while trying to start.
The belts don't stretch that easy

Do ya have too many pennies in it might be too tight on the crank.
With the belt off. Pull the flywheel in and out with your fingers and see if ya got any crank end play it should move just a very little bit.

Pennies :ROFLMAO: whatever, I've heard about that before. You'll be having a lot of friction in that area. At least the crank wont rub on the cam
Guess that's why I like the 6904. It is kinda involved to make the crank end play perfect.
I showed how to do that in the thread I suggested you might want to read about crankshaft end play. There's pictures too.
You should be OK at least ya gave it your 2 cents worth. :ROFLMAO:
 

unoahguy

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I got it working again! Rode 15 miles today and absolutely loved it!

Thanks Wrench!

Last thing. I now know for a fact the drive belt around the flywheel is a little loose because on uphills when I speed up, I hear the screeching sound I was talking about before. While this is happening, my speed is limited even when I add throttle. However, when I pull in the clutch the screeching is gone. Should I get a new belt or try to tighten it somehow?
 

Wrench

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I use a NAPA V Belt 4L290 This Belt is OEM for the Whizzer
I don't have a slip clutch on my bike. I have an auto clutch.

Ask Quenton about adjusting the front belt tension. I bet he knows a trick. He might even suggest you use a AX type belt?
I think the front belt tension can be adjusted by moving the motor forward or back. It's a combination of using the rear belt to get the tension tight with moving the motor forward.

Awesome, Glad your in the Wind.
1st step completed, Now ya can start reading up on Speed Modifications. (y)

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