Who can figure this one out??!?

[Carl Walichnowski]

Ok this is my situation. I was running my Grubee Skyhawk Gt5a on a Swinn frame. Since I had the spring forks and horrible braking I figured I'd just get a whole new bike & switch my kit over to a new frame. While planning the swap I also purchased some basic upgrades, a new CNC Head, Expansion Chamber (Thrust Muffler), Carb, Top Hat Adapter & throttle. Due to my lack of experience I chose to have someone swap & install everything over to my new frame.
So here's my issue. When I peddle I'll pop the clutch and the motor will turn over but despite my continuous peddling and applying the throttle the motor will only idle at a minimum. I've tried troubleshooting by taking my air filter off the carb and making sure my slide was moving up & down when I engaged the throttle, the slide moved as it should of. I cleaned out the carb with some cleaner.
I checked the gap on the spark plug to make sure it was gapped at 20, it was at nearly 30 so I lowered it to 20. I still had the same issue. I then switched my carb back to the stock one after cleaning that all out installed that one and still have the same problem, damn thing remains idling after popping the clutch.
What can I do to troubleshoot and resolve the problem? I was thinking electrical or maybe when the head was put on it didn't seal correctly but a torque wrench was used to 15 and tightened using the criss cross pattern.
I NEED HELP PLEASE!!! I'm open to any advice and will try any reasonable solution. Thanks!!
P.S. I tried to post a video but an error kept popping up, I did however post the video under the pictures on the home page. It initially shows 3 dots but click on it and it'll show like a six second video of the bike briefly idling after I turn it over.

 

[crassius]

part of the job of swapping it over is to have a running bike at the end - get the guy that started the job to finish it

only he will know what he did or didn't do

sounds like no fuel or choke stuck or throttle unhooked

 

[Carl Walichnowski]

The person who started it is my 18 yr old son and neither he or I can figure out the issue. The throttle/carb is not the issue. Like I stated the slider freely moves up and down. I also fully switched carbs just to see if a whole different carb would provide different results, it didn't thus the reason for creating this thread.

 

[crassius]

did not hear it idling in that vid

process is, pedal up to speed, ease out clutch, keep pedaling until the motor pulls on its own faster than you can keep up with pedals

 

[Carl Walichnowski]

I've driven the bike with the motor installed for a couple months prior to attempting to switch the motor over to the bike in the video. As I explained I'll pop the clutch and the motor will turn over but it will simply stay idling. I've pedaled for blocks hoping it'd do something but the bike will stay idling. Unfortunately the sound can only slightly be picked up in the video but there was no need to pedal continuously at that point because it was only for sound demonstration purposes.

 

[Carl Walichnowski]

I pop the clutch, the motor turns over & then the motor will just idle. This is what I'm wondering. During swapping over from one frame to another I installed the never before used square MZ head (Well my son did the head install not me). Well while trying to troubleshoot my ongoing issue I seen that the nuts on my head didn't seem to be fully down the thread of the head stud. So I removed the bolts & I noticed there is very little stud thread above the head. Do you think it's likely that the head did not seal properly due to the lack of available stud thread and the bolts not being tightened all the way? Here's two pics of the engine thread.

 

[crassius]

I suspect that what you call idling is just the motor being dragged along by pedaling - if it were idling, it would continue to idle when you pull the clutch lever back - I doubt it is firing at all.

Oftentimes, one needs to add washers to those studs to get a good seat - I've sometimes used 4 flat washers along with the thick lock-washer.

 

[Carl Walichnowski]

Ok I believe your right and I described what is happening in the wrong way. What you describe is more accurate to what's happening, thank you for the correction. That being said what do you believe the issue is now that you properly described the situation for me??? I had a flat & lock washer on there but it looked like the nut was unable to go down the stud much due to the lack of thread space. When people change to the bigger heads do they also get bigger motor studs?? And sorry for my lack of experience but I would appreciate any help you could give.

 

[Street Ryderz]

One washer and at least a 1/4 " of exposed thread and your good!As for your idle only problem video you starting the bike and pull in the clutch let me hear the engine idle then slowly give it some throttle input let us hear whats going on!I honestly didnt hear it ever fire in your previous video!

 

[Carl Walichnowski]

I was writing this in a conversation to Frankenstein but prefer to post it so other members can also learn from the topic too.
I attempted to explain the issue to another member and after some back and forth come to find out my motor doesn't fire up after all. He explained that by simply continuing to petal along and hearing the motor "drag along" that does not mean it fired up at all. So sorry about the confusion, I chalk it up to being inexperienced.
So having a better description I redid ny google search and I've seen a lot of things I can do to troubleshoot. 1st they suggest to look for a spark and make sure it's strong. After that I'm going with the compression check and checking that there is no leaks.
As for the nuts, there's only about 1/2 - 2/3 of the nuts threads used up on the motor stud but that's with 2 washers being used, as you may be able to see in the pic there's not much useable thread. I wondered when people replace their heads if they also get longer motor studs??