Why is the friction roller barely spinning?

[Needurhelp53]

My chinese 43cc 2 stroke rear friction drive gas bicycle engine kit just arrived this afternoon. I was watching a video of someone installing the exact same make, model, power etc.. I noticed the drive roller spun very smoothly both frontward n backwards as it's supposed too. My kit doesn't use spacers between the engine n the friction drive roller attachment that connects to the engine. It uses a 1 1/2 " or so square aluminum piece that is round in the middle so it fits perfectly once attached to the engine. The problem is once I put the four 6mm bolts through that aluminum piece between the engine and part that holds the drive roller n tighten them the drive roller is very hard to turn. I can turn it by hand but it's dragging or seems to be sticking. Once I loosen those 4 bolts that have a lock washer n regular washer the drive roller turns with no effort like before I put the attachment onto the engine. Is that normal once you tighten the 4 bolts?

 

[Needurhelp53]

My name is Bill and I'm from Maryland. I just purchased a cheap Chinese 43cc 2 stroke rear wheel friction drive gas bicycle engine kit n am already having problems. I joined this forum hoping to.get some answers because I'm lost when it comes to getting one of these bike kits to be installed let alone working. The friction drive roller is dragging, very hard to turn as soon as I tighten the 4 -6mm bolts that hold the drive roller attachment to the engine. Once I loosen those 4 bolts, the roller spins as smooth as it did prior to putting those bolts on
But those bolts are a must. It's a brand new kit. Isn't the roller supposed to spin forward n backwards anytime the lock is tightened? Am I doing something wrong?

 

[Johnny_]

My name is Bill and I'm from Maryland. I just purchased a cheap Chinese 43cc 2 stroke rear wheel friction drive gas bicycle engine kit n am already having problems. I joined this forum hoping to.get some answers because I'm lost when it comes to getting one of these bike kits to be installed let alone working. The friction drive roller is dragging, very hard to turn as soon as I tighten the 4 -6mm bolts that hold the drive roller attachment to the engine. Once I loosen those 4 bolts, the roller spins as smooth as it did prior to putting those bolts on
But those bolts are a must. It's a brand new kit. Isn't the roller supposed to spin forward n backwards anytime the lock is tightened? Am I doing something wrong?

Make sure the whatever shaft drives the roller shaft, is lined up with the roller shaft. They could not be fitting into each other right and binding up. Pictures might help.
And welcome to the forum!

 

[Needurhelp53]

Make sure the whatever shaft drives the roller shaft, is lined up with the roller shaft. They could not be fitting into each other right and binding up. Pictures might help.
And welcome to the forum!

Thank u very much for replying. I'm going to take pics. The drive roller isn't supposed to stick or be hard to turn ever correct?

 

[Johnny_]

Thank u very much for replying. I'm going to take pics. The drive roller isn't supposed to stick or be hard to turn ever correct?

Mmmmm I don't have that particular friction drive so not sure.... but it definitely should not be VERY hard to turn over. Obviously it will be somewhat difficult, because of the resistance of the engine.

 

[Needurhelp53]

Thank you for replying. I'm going to take a few pics n postthem. Thanks again

 

[Needurhelp53]

I took the four 6mm bolts off and pulled the drive roller attachment n the roller spun like a top. But soon as iput the aluminum attachment piece over the wheel and put the bolts back on the drive roller spun but with a considerable amount of resistance. Johnny I have 2 say your correct by saying where the 2 connect is the problem. I have to figure it out tomorrow. I don't know if the pics will help.

 

[Cavity]

Everyone else probably knows what I'm thinking, and what I'm about to write, but for your sake, here it is.
....I don’t know how much you paid, but suck it up and take the loss on that cheap Chinese friction drive kit.
Do yourself a favor and buy a Staton friction drive kit, made right here in Oklahoma, USA
The kit is about $130. It's a very high quality product, bulletproof, and won't disappoint.
I'm sure others will chime in and confirm.
Either way, good luck.

Staton Inc

1-1/8" Drive Roller. 76 mm Clutch Rotor / 78 mm Clutch Drum / clutch bell. Friction Drive, Rear or Front Mount Kit. No Engine or kill switch. Note: For more pictures look at the kit with the .930" Drive roller. If you want a front mount kit for a trike be sure and click on the front mount...

www.staton-inc.com

 

[Darwin]

No that is not normal. It should spin freely. You need to figure out why it's binding. Too far in or out, the clutch bell. Too far in you'll need to space it out with 4 exact thin washers. Too far out that spacer is too thick. Just need to spin and eyeball it to figure it out when the engine isn't running. When put together did the clutch slip into the bell freely? That could be another issue. The clutch expanded outward for some reason or just a hair too big.

 

[Darwin]

Mmmmm I don't have that particular friction drive so not sure.... but it definitely should not be VERY hard to turn over. Obviously it will be somewhat difficult, because of the resistance of the engine.

With engine off the clutch should have no contact with the clutch bell. When the engine rpm increases the clutch expands to grab the clutch bell and that drives the roller. It should spin freely with the engine off or at idle. Don't be fooling around with it while the engine is running, could hurt ya somehow. With it all together you could run it for a minute or so to see where any marks are where it's binding/rubbing. From there you can tell what's going on after taking it apart.