Why is the friction roller barely spinning?

[Needurhelp53]

My chinese 43cc 2 stroke rear friction drive gas bicycle engine kit just arrived this afternoon. I was watching a video of someone installing the exact same make, model, power etc.. I noticed the drive roller spun very smoothly both frontward n backwards as it's supposed too. My kit doesn't use spacers between the engine n the friction drive roller attachment that connects to the engine. It uses a 1 1/2 " or so square aluminum piece that is round in the middle so it fits perfectly once attached to the engine. The problem is once I put the four 6mm bolts through that aluminum piece between the engine and part that holds the drive roller n tighten them the drive roller is very hard to turn. I can turn it by hand but it's dragging or seems to be sticking. Once I loosen those 4 bolts that have a lock washer n regular washer the drive roller turns with no effort like before I put the attachment onto the engine. Is that normal once you tighten the 4 bolts?

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

Everyone else probably knows what I'm thinking, and what I'm about to write, but for your sake, here it is.
....I don’t know how much you paid, but suck it up and take the loss on that cheap Chinese friction drive kit.
Do yourself a favor and buy a Staton friction drive kit, made right here in Oklahoma, USA
The kit is about $130. It's a very high quality product, bulletproof, and won't disappoint.
I'm sure others will chime in and confirm.
Either way, good luck.

Staton Inc

1-1/8" Drive Roller. 76 mm Clutch Rotor / 78 mm Clutch Drum / clutch bell. Friction Drive, Rear or Front Mount Kit. No Engine or kill switch. Note: For more pictures look at the kit with the .930" Drive roller. If you want a front mount kit for a trike be sure and click on the front mount...

www.staton-inc.com

If he's going to do that, he better hurry. Staton Inc is selling off its inventory and shutting down.

 

[Will'smotobikes19]

I took the four 6mm bolts off and pulled the drive roller attachment n the roller spun like a top. But soon as iput the aluminum attachment piece over the wheel and put the bolts back on the drive roller spun but with a considerable amount of resistance. Johnny I have 2 say your correct by saying where the 2 connect is the problem. I have to figure it out tomorrow. I don't know if the pics will help.

I had the same kit my bolts were too short they barely went in 1/4 inch into the motor. I think the face of the clutch rubs on the clutch bell also my clutch bell would wobble and wasn't true. I even tried getting a new bell but it had to be the shaft or something. I bought the staton too and it wouldn't generate any momentum so I cut my losses and sold the bike for $50. I didn't have any luck with friction drives. There needs to be more centrifugal clutch chain drives out there.

 

[LewieBike]

These drives are usually about the easiest bike drive mechanically to install and tune. Would you be interested in selling it to me? I would really like to take a look at this and work out what's the problem. Price within reason of course.

 

[CENTURION]

You want to make sure the spacers on the bolts are adjusted, so it just holds the roller in place and is not squeezing it in the mounting channel. They use a lock-nut type system an it looks like you have them too far inward and are squeezing the shaft and bearings.

 

[rawly old]

My chinese 43cc 2 stroke rear friction drive gas bicycle engine kit just arrived this afternoon. I was watching a video of someone installing the exact same make, model, power etc.. I noticed the drive roller spun very smoothly both frontward n backwards as it's supposed too. My kit doesn't use spacers between the engine n the friction drive roller attachment that connects to the engine. It uses a 1 1/2 " or so square aluminum piece that is round in the middle so it fits perfectly once attached to the engine. The problem is once I put the four 6mm bolts through that aluminum piece between the engine and part that holds the drive roller n tighten them the drive roller is very hard to turn. I can turn it by hand but it's dragging or seems to be sticking. Once I loosen those 4 bolts that have a lock washer n regular washer the drive roller turns with no effort like before I put the attachment onto the engine. Is that normal once you tighten the 4 bolts?

Sounds to me like clutch pads not engaging the clutch bell. Should engage around 3200 rpm. Do you pedal off some
before using throttle?