Why You Should Check

[entity]

I'm putting together a late model Zeda 80 engine for my bike, and I thought I'd post a photo illustrating why it's a good idea to look at everything, before you leap - Even for one of the supposedly "better" rated motors, like the Zeda .
Notice the lock washer under the lower right mag screw - It was actually touching the rotor

 

[crassius]

in the upper left of that pic, is that a rivet that was never seated?

I once opened one and all the rivets were sticking up like that.

 

[entity]

in the upper left of that pic, is that a rivet that was never seated?

I once opened one and all the rivets were sticking up like that.

Good spotting !
I neglected to mention that - It was mostly seated, and I drove it in with a punch a little before I closed it back up.
It still sticks up a bit - just like the one opposite, which is used as a solder lug for the ground / black wire

 

[crassius]

the one I had like that would arc in between those plates in the armature a bit until it heated up and just died - cooling off it would run again

I seated all the rivets in my press and it ran fine.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

Those lock washers are annoying. I had one open up like that as I screwed the bolt in, so I just pulled out the washer and tightened it down without a washer. The other three seem to be just waiting for the worst moment to do the same thing.

 

[entity]

Those lock washers are annoying. I had one open up like that as I screwed the bolt in, so I just pulled out the washer and tightened it down without a washer. The other three seem to be just waiting for the worst moment to do the same thing.

I replaced them all with internal tooth star washers.
One thing that was better than expected on the motor, was that all the fasteners (the socket head screws) were grade 8.8 .
At least they were marked that way ....

 

[Frankenstein]

I replaced them all with internal tooth star washers.
One thing that was better than expected on the motor, was that all the fasteners (the socket head screws) were grade 8.8 .
At least they were marked that way ....

Yeah good point, I look at some of those bolts and just by how they behave and mark up I have a very hard time believing they are true 8.8 grade, it's especially evident when I go to torque something by hand and I can just start to feel it begin to strip, which on normal 8.8 grade from home Depot takes nearly twice the effort to get the same effect of stripping, and many cases I can stretch and snap that grade before it has a chance to strip.

Maybe has me thinking if I should perform some experiments...

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

Yeah good point, I look at some of those bolts and just by how they behave and mark up I have a very hard time believing they are true 8.8 grade, it's especially evident when I go to torque something by hand and I can just start to feel it begin to strip, which on normal 8.8 grade from home Depot takes nearly twice the effort to get the same effect of stripping, and many cases I can stretch and snap that grade before it has a chance to strip.

Maybe has me thinking if I should perform some experiments...

How much torque is actually needed on case and cover bolts?
(I got A4 stainless because of my marine environment and my assumption that the torque needed is actually pretty low compared to the mounts.)

 

[Frankenstein]

How much torque is actually needed on case and cover bolts?
(I got A4 stainless because of my marine environment and my assumption that the torque needed is actually pretty low compared to the mounts.)

I think I just do 12 on case bolts, everything else is the number 15 on my drill clutch. Stainless and aluminum are apparently not good things to mingle, I'm not in a salty environment and use stainless on my motors and haven't actually seen a problem, so who knows.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

I think I just do 12 on case bolts, everything else is the number 15 on my drill clutch. Stainless and aluminum are apparently not good things to mingle, I'm not in a salty environment and use stainless on my motors and haven't actually seen a problem, so who knows.

Yeah true dat. It promotes galvanic corrosion on (the aluminium of) eyeletted rims.
Case bolts aren't getting soaked though so it's just the salt air. I'm fussy about it making the allen heads look rusty.