In my on going saga to get my Wilderness Energy BD-36 kit functional on a bike, I've run into yet another problem.
The dropouts on my front fork are too wide, allowing the axel to torque within them -- pinching the wires and shorting the system. I opened up the motor to repair the wires, and tried fabricating a torque arm as described by Blaze in this thread: http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=4189
But the torque arm slipped up while I was riding over the weekend, and caused the newly repaired wires to pinch and short again. Every time the wires to the motor short, my controller blows beyond repair. I guess for some reason it's not designed with a fuse or breaker...
I've gone through hours of effort, three controllers, spent hundreds of dollars, received minor electrical burns -- and still don't have a functional e-bike to make it all worth it.
I'd like to get it up and running ASAP for my commute -- but need some general advice/encouragement from the forums. Here's what I'm thinking to get it up and running.
1. Replace my front fork -- sadly I bought the bike new from a cruiser bike place that doesn't do returns, I'm just going to bite the bullet and replace my fork with something more heavy duty. What are people's thoughts on a springer fork?
2. Hope like **** Wilderness Energy is willing to send me controller #4. If they've had enough of me, does anyone have any recommendations for relatively inexpensive controllers for a brushed kit that will be a little more resilient if something shorts in the future? I'm not looking to spend much since I've already put so much money into this.
3. With a new fork in place -- add a well fabricated torque arm for additional safety. I saw one here: http://www.poweridestore.com/Hub-Motor-Torque-Arm but for some reason the store won't let me check out. Does anyone know where I can purchase something like that?
The other option I have is to bring the entire bike to a machine shop and see if they can repair my dropouts and fabricate a torque arm -- but I'm nervous repairs and hacked together fabrications wouldn't be as safe as new parts. What does everyone think?
Thanks in advance!
The dropouts on my front fork are too wide, allowing the axel to torque within them -- pinching the wires and shorting the system. I opened up the motor to repair the wires, and tried fabricating a torque arm as described by Blaze in this thread: http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=4189
But the torque arm slipped up while I was riding over the weekend, and caused the newly repaired wires to pinch and short again. Every time the wires to the motor short, my controller blows beyond repair. I guess for some reason it's not designed with a fuse or breaker...
I've gone through hours of effort, three controllers, spent hundreds of dollars, received minor electrical burns -- and still don't have a functional e-bike to make it all worth it.
I'd like to get it up and running ASAP for my commute -- but need some general advice/encouragement from the forums. Here's what I'm thinking to get it up and running.
1. Replace my front fork -- sadly I bought the bike new from a cruiser bike place that doesn't do returns, I'm just going to bite the bullet and replace my fork with something more heavy duty. What are people's thoughts on a springer fork?
2. Hope like **** Wilderness Energy is willing to send me controller #4. If they've had enough of me, does anyone have any recommendations for relatively inexpensive controllers for a brushed kit that will be a little more resilient if something shorts in the future? I'm not looking to spend much since I've already put so much money into this.
3. With a new fork in place -- add a well fabricated torque arm for additional safety. I saw one here: http://www.poweridestore.com/Hub-Motor-Torque-Arm but for some reason the store won't let me check out. Does anyone know where I can purchase something like that?
The other option I have is to bring the entire bike to a machine shop and see if they can repair my dropouts and fabricate a torque arm -- but I'm nervous repairs and hacked together fabrications wouldn't be as safe as new parts. What does everyone think?
Thanks in advance!